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03/15/2010 10:20:37 AM · #51 |
Very interesting stuff - I look forward to some top tips. I am quite excited about having been invited to come along and capture these guys whilst training...
---- Punk (North American Eagle Owl)
---- Keira (Kestrel)
---- Sandy (Red Back Hawk)
And maybe even their big brother, the Golden Eagle. :o)
The more info I can get in advance to avoid messing up this chance to get some really nice shots, the better! |
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03/15/2010 12:28:36 PM · #52 |
Originally posted by hihosilver: Yes...I am looking forward to this thread, but just so you know...all of my models will be vegetarians!
I really don't need a photo of a dead pigeon with a flopping head...no matter how handsome the hunter bird is...Ewwwww! |
Maybe you will get to sharpen your PhotoShop skills by learing how to remove carnage and install nice, clean talons! LOL!!! |
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03/15/2010 12:34:23 PM · #53 |
Originally posted by NikonJeb: Maybe you will get to sharpen your PhotoShop skills by learing how to remove carnage and install nice, clean talons! LOL!!! |
Good Golly! Hope they make a carnage cleaning plugin for that...;-P |
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03/15/2010 03:23:18 PM · #54 |
Here we go!
I know you are all anxious to get into the juicy how to stuff and see lots of photos but first we have to start with the basics. I promise I will keep this section short (likely just this week) and then we will quickly move into meat.
The Right Equipment – Part 1
So many questions! DSLR or Super zoom P&S, what brand camera, zoom lens or fixed focal length lenses, image stabilization or not, autofocus or manual focus, tripod or monopod or handheld, on-camera flash or external flash units, what about flash extenders? The list can go on and on.
In the end it is really not about equipment as a great photographer can shoot a great image with almost any camera. Because of this I do not want to spend a ton of time on the subject but I do think it is worthwhile talking about the components that will help you be more successful in the field.
Let̢۪s try some generalizations.
DSLR vs. P&S
If you really want to shoot birds and moving subjects in the wild you will need a DSLR. You can get by with a higher end P&S with a super-zoom lens but to really have a chance to be successful in varying environmental conditions you will need a DSLR and quality lens. P&S cameras have come a long way but still have shutter delay issues when it comes to capturing that perfect shot of a bird or animal in the right pose or interesting action. DSLR̢۪s are inherently faster and give you the advantages of a larger sensor, meaning better light gathering and less noise at higher ISO̢۪s. Higher end DSLR̢۪s also give you a more rugged platform that is often weatherproof. These advantages coupled with the ability to get specialized lenses will offer you more opportunity to be successful and they will become apparent as we move along in our discussion.
Does this mean you can not use a P&S? Absolutely not! If you are getting started and/or need to keep costs down you can still get out there with a P&S and hone your skills. Fuji just announced the HS10 a 30x (24 – 720mm) and although I’m sure it still has the limitations of a P&S it seems to be quite a bit of camera for $500. As a matter of fact using a P&S will require you to learn bird and animal behavior even faster as you will have to anticipate in order to get the shot. So stay with us even if I concentrate on the DSLR as the techniques and much of the process is the same.
Camera Brand
Do we even need to go there? In this day and age of competing body brands and high end glass it would be silly to enter into the argument that one is better than the other. When it comes to digital cameras it is mostly personal preference. Do you own good glass already or have a friend of family member who does? Buy that brand. Do you like the feel of one body type over another? Go for it!
Just a couple of caveats, if you are thinking you are going to get serious about this type of photography look closely at the autofocus systems and the lens choices you will have as they will become very important down the road. Autofocus is a must for fast moving subjects and a body / lens combo that excels in this area will be money well spent. These two points goes for P&S cameras as well as quality lenses and fast focus systems make a difference even in a P&S.
Here are a few of the things the famed photographer Arthur Morris thinks are essential in a camera body:
Bright focusing screens – preferably 100%Viewfinder. You will only find these on high end DSLR bodies and to be honest most times you are trying to keep the subject within the viewfinder and need to leave room around the subject anyway so the value of a 100% viewfinder is questionable. You will likely need at least some cropping.
Autofocus with continuous focus mode – the faster the better and the more points you can select from the better.
TTL metering systems - as handheld light meters are next to useless for this type photography. Today all DSLR bodies that I know of have TTL metering so it comes down to which is more accurate and has the most customization ability.
Aperture Priority Mode – All DSLR’s should have this and you will use it for 90% or more of your shooting. Quite a few P&S camera also have this mode but it is likely of less use than a good sport mode that keeps the shutter speed high.
Vertical Grip availability – does two things for you, it lets you quickly switch to portrait and it gives the ability for more battery life.
Fast access to exposure compensation – having an exposure compensation button on the outside the camera body makes life very easy when you need to make quick adjustments which is essential in the environments you will find yourself in.
Self Timer & Mirror Lock Up – for those times when you are using a tripod and a very low shutter speed on a stationary subject.
Assignment
This one is simple - for the next day or so chip in your two cents on the issues of camera bodies and what you find useful or not. Do you disagree with anything I̢۪ve said? Feel free to let me know why. Let̢۪s try to keep the discussion to camera body features and not brands. I̢۪ll be posting Part 2 of The Right Equipment in a day or two moving on to lenses and a few accessory items I think are helpful.
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03/15/2010 04:43:18 PM · #55 |
Originally posted by hihosilver: Yes...I am looking forward to this thread, but just so you know...all of my models will be vegetarians!
I really don't need a photo of a dead pigeon with a flopping head...no matter how handsome the hunter bird is...Ewwwww! |
No problem Mae there are quite a few vegetarians out their in the animal world! |
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03/15/2010 06:03:41 PM · #56 |
Originally posted by jbsmithana: This one is simple - for the next day or so chip in your two cents on the issues of camera bodies and what you find useful or not. Do you disagree with anything I̢۪ve said? Feel free to let me know why. Let̢۪s try to keep the discussion to camera body features and not brands. I̢۪ll be posting Part 2 of The Right Equipment in a day or two moving on to lenses and a few accessory items I think are helpful. |
I dunno, J.B.......You think I'm okay with this ol' thing I got?.....8>)
For those of you not aware, J.B. sold me his IMMACULATE D200 when he upgraded.
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03/15/2010 06:10:09 PM · #57 |
Nice summary -- thanks for including my camera! ;-)
Can you elaborate a bit more on the part about using Aperture-Priority? It seems to me that, if the goal is to shoot at a high shutter speed, you might want to use Shutter-Priority mode, and set it for the minimum acceptable (or better, depending on conditions), and adjust to that with aperture and ISO settings. |
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03/15/2010 07:45:36 PM · #58 |
Originally posted by GeneralE: Nice summary -- thanks for including my camera! ;-)
Can you elaborate a bit more on the part about using Aperture-Priority? It seems to me that, if the goal is to shoot at a high shutter speed, you might want to use Shutter-Priority mode, and set it for the minimum acceptable (or better, depending on conditions), and adjust to that with aperture and ISO settings. |
Let's hold that question as we will be talking about that very issue soon, right after we get done with equipment. But I promise I will address it. For now the short answer is that there are always more than one way to skin a cat but some offer better control over the finished product.
Message edited by author 2010-03-15 19:47:15. |
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03/15/2010 07:48:31 PM · #59 |
Originally posted by NikonJeb: I dunno, J.B.......You think I'm okay with this ol' thing I got?.....8>)
For those of you not aware, J.B. sold me his IMMACULATE D200 when he upgraded. |
That pice of _ _ _ _! I got rid of it becasue it had no ribbons in it. |
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03/15/2010 07:52:56 PM · #60 |
How about speaking to primes versus zoom? I did much of my birding with a 300mm prime, but it would be frustrating at times. It was fine when you are trying to "reach" the bird, but if the bird suddenly gets too close (or you find another surprise subject), then you are screwed. This seems like it would be especially true for large focal lengths. 400mm, 600mm. Zoom would seem to offer much more control for situation like that, BUT at the cost of a limited long end. Canon has the 100-400, and I guess Sigma has the 50-500, but you can't really get a zoom at the really large focal lengths.
Which do you tend to use?
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03/15/2010 08:15:59 PM · #61 |
Originally posted by DrAchoo: How about speaking to primes versus zoom? I did much of my birding with a 300mm prime, but it would be frustrating at times. It was fine when you are trying to "reach" the bird, but if the bird suddenly gets too close (or you find another surprise subject), then you are screwed. This seems like it would be especially true for large focal lengths. 400mm, 600mm. Zoom would seem to offer much more control for situation like that, BUT at the cost of a limited long end. Canon has the 100-400, and I guess Sigma has the 50-500, but you can't really get a zoom at the really large focal lengths.
Which do you tend to use? |
All good points. Lenses are the next topic. Coming to a thread near you soon. |
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03/15/2010 08:38:57 PM · #62 |
regarding camera -- you mentioned continuous auto focus was important. I have a Canon 40D, and I actually trust the one shot auto-focus better than the continuous focus. I've played around with the continuous, but it seems like I can do a better job than the camera. I recommend that people keep in mind both options and play around with it to determine which works best for them. But it's important to be knowledgeable about both and explore.
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03/15/2010 08:39:43 PM · #63 |
Originally posted by NikonJeb: I dunno, J.B.......You think I'm okay with this ol' thing I got?.....8>)
For those of you not aware, J.B. sold me his IMMACULATE D200 when he upgraded. |
Originally posted by jbsmithana: That piece of _ _ _ _! I got rid of it becasue it had no ribbons in it. |
You're dropping letters again....
Isn't that strange! I found three ribbons in it.
I haven't even had it three quarter of a year yet.....8>)
I should probably shut up if I want any help from you, huh?
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03/15/2010 08:44:09 PM · #64 |
I have had a fair amount of success with a long remote camera release. I was able to create a 50 foot cable to use a long way from a well-known perch. Has anybody else used this approach? It has served me well with hummingbirds and a very predictable kingfisher. |
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03/15/2010 08:47:15 PM · #65 |
Originally posted by Nobody: I have had a fair amount of success with a long remote camera release. I was able to create a 50 foot cable to use a long way from a well-known perch. Has anybody else used this approach? It has served me well with hummingbirds and a very predictable kingfisher. |
I would love one of those! I think it would be a spectacular idea.
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03/15/2010 08:55:44 PM · #66 |
At least for pentax, it's very easy, and for about $25 in parts from radioshack. Pentax uses a standard mini-DIN adapter, like the jack for a phone headset. One Jack, a spool of 4-wire phone cord and a couple of push-button switches. Assuming you ( or a friend) knows how to solder, you can be in business in about 30 minutes.
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03/15/2010 10:37:01 PM · #67 |
When shooting BIF"S, I find that I'll set my camera to use multi point focusing when i've a clean background, say the sky, or over a calm body of water, there is nothing to interfere with the bird i'm tracking. Now, when i'm in the woods, I'll switch to single point, so my camera will only focus on the bird that i'm tracking, there will be no issue of letting the camera focus on what it wants. |
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03/15/2010 11:10:28 PM · #68 |
My Fuji pea shooter has no mirror lockup, and does not meter at all with the manual focus lenses that I use for almost all of my bird shooting. Usually, I set the aperture one click from wide open to get a little DOF and sharpness, and adjust shutter speed until it looks good in the LCD.
It took me quite a while, like a year of shooting to get comfortable with shooting all manual, but now it just seems quite easy to get the shots. I find the "blinkies" (flashing highlights in the LCD when they are overexposed) to be of great value in estimating correct EV with the Fuji.
The strong point of the Fuji is the extra wide dynamic range sensor and color. All of my birding shots are done 12meg JPG.
I found the sensor to be smeared with something visible in sunlight in the week after this shot, so it's not as sharp as it should be.
I had been noticing that for a while and was thinking it was in my lenses.

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03/16/2010 12:53:24 AM · #69 |
Originally posted by GeneralE: Can you elaborate a bit more on the part about using Aperture-Priority? |
I echo this question, but for slower shutter speeds to get motion blur. I don't think I've ever used aperture-priority for any of my bird photos...so I'd be interested to hear thought on this topic as well. |
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03/16/2010 01:17:29 AM · #70 |
Originally posted by DrAchoo: Canon has the 100-400 ... |
My Canon goes from 36-412 (35mm eq) -- almost makes up for the shutter-lag. |
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03/16/2010 01:45:43 AM · #71 |
Originally posted by hihosilver: Originally posted by GeneralE: Can you elaborate a bit more on the part about using Aperture-Priority? |
I echo this question, but for slower shutter speeds to get motion blur. I don't think I've ever used aperture-priority for any of my bird photos...so I'd be interested to hear thought on this topic as well. |
f9.5, to get DOF because the bird was coming by at 30 mph and about 20 ft out so I needed DOF to be able to fudge some on focus. This was the second bird in a group of 3 following the same path.
Basic edit, shot at f4.5 to make the barbed wire fence disappear. It goes across the chest of the two on the right.
I do have some where I used AP to get blur, but not uploaded to DPC yet.
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03/16/2010 06:18:54 PM · #72 |
I came across this one and have just decided that the best camera body and lens is the one in AndrewT's hands...;-)
MelonMusketeer...now you've made me curious and intrigued about aperture priority uses. I will try it! |
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03/16/2010 06:32:10 PM · #73 |
I only shoot aperture priority.
 
A good portion of the time, I shoot wide open just to get as fast of a shutter speed as I can. Also, it's rare that I want any of the background, so another reason I shoot wide open. The problem is that the little birds (especially the blue birds) are so incredibly fast, you need about 1/2000-1/4000 of a second to stop the motion.
Message edited by author 2010-03-16 18:33:09.
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03/16/2010 11:44:09 PM · #74 |
The Right Equipment – Part 2
Since a few of you asked about why I shoot in aperture priority I thought I would take that on before moving to lenses, it relates to the subject of lenses anyway.
I shoot wide open in aperture priority to assure the highest shutter speed possible and the softest blur of the foreground and background to my subject as possible. I set my ISO to a minimum of 400 and move it to 800 if it is dull or low light. These are always my starting point and then I can adjust from there. For me the most important thing in bird photography is DOF. Why? Because it is always one of the first questions I ask. Do I want the foreground and background completely blurred out, the subject isolated? Almost always the answer here is yes. Do I want the background to be included as part of the story, maybe habitat or more birds or a reflection. If so it is a quick change to close down a stop or two or three. For that matter you will want to determine what part of the subject will be in focus. If you are shooting up close to a small subject then you might want to stop down a bit, maybe F8, to get at least the near side eye and wing in focus. Remember the closer you get the more narrow the DOF gets at a given aperture. There are many variables as to DOF but in general I suggest you shoot wide open and adjust from there. As you close down the aperture your shutter speed will of course get slower. You then have the option of increasing your ISO (easy on my D300 as it has an external button for that and shows in the viewfinder) or to use fill flash. You will quickly learn what situations make you drop below acceptable shutter speeds if you use the same base settings all the time.
Some will argue that it is better to assure shutter speed first by using shutter priority as it is the most important part of bird / wildlife photography. And I agree that keeping your shutter speed up is especially important when using long lenses. However, aperture adjustment then becomes second and is often lost in the decision making process when the pace gets moving in an active shoot. In the end it is up to you to decide what is best for your style. Just remember to make DOF an intricate part of your shooting as it has a major impact on the outcome of the final image.
Lenses
For bird and wildlife photography you can use almost any lens, wide, medium or telephoto. It all depends on what you are trying to capture and show in your final image. As a general rule there is little question that the faster the glass the better your chances of finding success, especially when shooting moving subjects and / or wanting full control over DOF. But fast glass comes at a price both in dollars and weight and you can get by on lesser lenses. You will need a mix of lenses to capture all the different elements of this subject but in the end the Holy Grail for bird / wildlife photographers is the long lens, it will become your everyday lens.
Wide Angle to Regular Lenses
If you are looking for bird and wildlife portraits or even full body shots with some background then short lenses will be pretty limiting. This is not to say that if you have a situation where you can get VERY close to your subject that you can not use a wide angle lens for a different effect on close in shots. But for me wide lenses have the most value when you want to show the habitat of the animal or bird and are especially useful when dealing with large numbers as in this photo:
Using a shorter lens gives you the ability to get greater DOF from close in the far out, something that is more difficult with a telephoto.
You can also get the shot from far off with a longer lens but it will have a different perspective. Here is a flock shot taken with a telephoto from a distance:
Medium Telephoto – 70-300mm
If I had my way I would always carry a 70-200mm lens along with me when shooting birds and wildlife as they are one of the most useful lenses sold, second only to the super telephoto, IMHO of course. What gives these lenses the most value, at least for me, is that they are generally lighter and smaller to carry (except if you won a 70-200 f2.8) and offer a great deal of versatility. They excel on bigger birds and wildlife you can get a bit closer to. If they are a fast lens, like the 70-200mm F2.8, then you have the added benefit of being able to add a teleconverter (TC) without significant loss of quality. These faster lenses can be very sharp and give you wonderful control over DOF so that you can create a pleasing background. These shots were taken with a Nikon 70-200 f2.8 VR:
But when all is said and done they are just not long enough for serious bird / wildlife photography and if they are all you carry you find yourself wanting eventually.
Super Telephoto Lenses– 400mm and up
Long lenses will offer you reach, enough to capture smaller subjects and still get a decent image size. They will give you control over DOF so that you can isolate your subject and eliminate distractions in the background. If you are lucky enough to own one of the high-end F2.8 or F4 400mm plus lenses then you will be able to produce some of the softest out of focus backgrounds available. Some of the less expensive long lenses, ones in the 80-400mm and 100-400mm class are light enough to handhold, although, whenever I can I at least use a monopod. Long lenses are a must for this type photography.
I just returned from Costa Rica and took 100̢۪s of photos with my Nikon 80-400 VR, always handheld as there was just no opportunity for me to carry a tripod or monopod. Even in low light rainy weather while on a small boat and jostling with 10 other people I was able to capture usable shots, I figured it ended up being about 1/3 of them. A shorter lens would not have worked here. Many of my shots still had to be cropped down. Here are a few:
The lighter weight long zoom made the trip to Costa Rica work for me and I don̢۪t think I could have used a heavier 500 or 600mm F4 in these conditions. But I still would love to have one for those times when I can be less crowded, more stable and not have to be as mobile.
Primes vs. Zooms
Primes lenses, especially long telephotos are sweet! They are normally very sharp and fast. Most come in at F2.8 and F4. Both Nikon and Canon make primes in the 300 – 600mm range that are common in bird / wildlife photography. If you are going to shoot professionally they are likely the only game in town.
But primes of this size do have there downside. First, they are expensive. Second they are heavy. Most require a heavy duty tripod and a gimbal type head which will add quite a bit to your expense. But hey, if you are dropping 6 to 10k on a lens what̢۪s another thousand. Did I mention they are expensive?
But there are also other downsides for most of us. All this gear limits your movement and for me at least part of my interest in bird / wildlife photography is getting out there are roaming around. There is also the issue that DrAchoo mentioned, “I did much of my birding with a 300mm prime, but it would be frustrating at times. It was fine when you are trying to "reach" the bird, but if the bird suddenly gets too close (or you find another surprise subject), then you are screwed.†Fixed focal lenses leave you no room for adjustment of composition with subjects who just do not want to sit still! This issue increases in frustration as you get into longer lenses than the 300mm he was using.
For most of us the answer will be found in some of the long zooms offered today. All manufactures of lenses offer zooms that range as high as 500mm and are still light and affordable. Many are relatively sharp. Some are very sharp! Although I would love to have the Nikon 200-400 F4 VR I get by with my lighter, and considerably less expensive, Nikon 80-400mm VR F4.5–5.6.
The downside of most zooms is that they are not as sharp, nor as fast, as primes. They are often not as weather sealed either. They limit your focal length as most do not work well with TCs. Even if a TC works you are likely to lose much in the sharpness department. There are some that beat these deficiencies, like the before mentioned Nikon 200-400, but always at a price. If you have not caught on as yet that is my dream lens. With a 1.4 TC it gets up to 560mm and with my D300 that gets up to an effective length of 840mm!
Ok, I opened up the subject, crop factor, is it an advantage or not? I don̢۪t have an easy answer for this and I̢۪m sure it will spur lots of discussion. But here is my opinion. All things being equal, say a 12 MP 1.5 crop D300 or a 12MP full frame D700, I̢۪d go with the D300. That added effective reach is going to get me, with my D300, a full 12 MP image to work on. On the D700 it would get me the same image but not at 12 MP. I would have to crop it down and now I would have less data to work with. You lose megapixels when you crop. I know that all pixels are not created equal but I can not help but feel that I̢۪d rather work with the full 12 MP images. Now if you can get a full frame camera at a much higher MP count, say 18 or more, then I̢۪d say the image, even after cropping, would be as good and likely better. Ok, go out there and set me straight!
Assignment
Take your favorite lens out in the back yard and try shooting in aperture priority mode. Set your ISO so you have a decent shutter speed, say 1.5 times or more the focal length. Now take a series of photos of the birds at your bird feeder, or your cat or dog, whatever has a background other than open sky. Vary the aperture from wide open to F11. Do these both zoomed fully in and out if your lens is a zoom or by standing closer or further if your lens is a prime. Download them to your computer and decide which photo from which settings is the more pleasing to your eye. Come back here and talk about it, maybe even post a few if you think they will help the discussion.
One more segment on Equipment coming this week and then on to better things!
Message edited by author 2010-03-17 13:09:51. |
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03/16/2010 11:48:42 PM · #75 |
[quote=hihosilver] I came across this one and have just decided that the best camera body and lens is the one in AndrewT's hands...;-)
How can anyone argue with that! |
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