How to get a good close-up / macro shot from a P&S

Pentax DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF

03/31/2006 06:56:27 PM · #1

How can I get better close-up / macro shots from my P&S camera ?

I don't have a pop-up flash, it's built into the front of the camera.

This

was my first real attempt at it, and it is very out of focus, blurry, etc. Shouldn't have entered it, but was hoping to get some technical advice in the comments.

Didn't really happen, so can someone help me out here please ?

faidoi

Pentax K10D

03/31/2006 07:15:55 PM · #2

Tripod, desklamp, p/s camera and some computer paper = this.

When doing a closeup never use any attached flash unless you bounce it off something like a ceiling, wall, reflector, etc.

Message edited by author 2006-03-31 19:16:50.

klstover

Panasonic DMC-FZ8

03/31/2006 07:19:33 PM · #3

I'm by no means an expert, and I have no idea about the differences between our cameras, but here's something I've found: Sometimes I'll have to move closer and zoom less, and sometimes I'll have to move farther away and zoom more. I haven't figured out a pattern yet - I basically just try different things and see what works.

GinaRothfels

Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark III

Olympus 8mm f/1.8 M.Zuiko Digital ED Fisheye PRO Lens

03/31/2006 07:20:33 PM · #4

If your camera has a filter thread (using a convertor) like my Canon A80, I suggest you get hold of some close-up filters.

These shots were all done with that camera:

Edit for spelling.

Message edited by author 2006-03-31 19:27:29.

MadMan2k

Sony Alpha a6400

Tamron 70-180mm F/2.8 Di III VXD

03/31/2006 07:22:25 PM · #5

The focus appears to be on the back of the watch, instead of the front. The autofocus system might have chosen that point even though it's not the foreground, or that might be the close focusing limit. My A70 had a manual focus feature, I'm assuming your camera has something similar. Set the focus as close as it goes, zoom in a little, and take some test shots.

You typically want the focus to be on the foreground, or the part of the object that's closest to the camera (with some exceptions). If you stop down the aperture (select a higher F-number in either M or Av mode; 8.0 might be the highest you can go, if so use that), you'll get more of the shot in focus. That's a really big plus to using point and shoot cameras for macros - the depth of field (in a nutshell, how big the range of sharpness is) is greater because of the shorter focal length of the lenses, so you can get most of what you're shooting in focus while still having a fairly big aperture so that you can handhold the camera. It's not too hard to handhold at F/8 and 1/100th of a second, but if you were using an SLR you'd need about F/32 and about 1/5th of a second to get the same depth of field.

Another thing to consider is JPEG compression - your photo is compressed down to 35Kb, and a lot of artifacts are visible. Try raising the quality when you save it, and get it up near 150Kb since that's the limit here.

GinaRothfels

Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark III

Olympus 8mm f/1.8 M.Zuiko Digital ED Fisheye PRO Lens

03/31/2006 07:26:06 PM · #6

Originally posted by MadMan2k:

Another thing to consider is JPEG compression - your photo is compressed down to 35Kb, and a lot of artifacts are visible. Try raising the quality when you save it, and get it up near 150Kb since that's the limit here.

It also looks like you might have overdone the neatimage, though it's difficult to tell at that compression.

pidge

Canon EOS-7D Mark II

03/31/2006 07:27:52 PM · #7

This tutorial has some good tricks and tips to use.

One thing to remember is to not get so close it can't focus. I made that mistake a few times by thinking no matter how close I got, it would still focus. I have since learned that is not the case

03/31/2006 07:56:17 PM · #8

Originally posted by MadMan2k:

And how do I change this ?

Tamron AF 18-270mm F/3,5-6,3 Di II VC LD Aspherical [IF] macro for Canon

03/31/2006 08:07:17 PM · #9

Hold a magnifying glass in front of the lense.

dahved

Canon EOS-50D

03/31/2006 08:13:06 PM · #10

Originally posted by kashi:

Originally posted by MadMan2k:
Another thing to consider is JPEG compression - your photo is compressed down to 35Kb, and a lot of artifacts are visible. Try raising the quality when you save it, and get it up near 150Kb since that's the limit here.

And how do I change this ?

What software are you using to save your images when submitting to DPC?

Tamron AF 18-270mm F/3,5-6,3 Di II VC LD Aspherical [IF] macro for Canon

03/31/2006 08:18:03 PM · #11

Originally posted by MadMan2k:

Originally posted by kashi:

And how do I change this ?

Originally posted by dahved:

What software are you using to save your images when submitting to DPC?

Paint Shop Pro 5.3

dahved

Canon EOS-50D

03/31/2006 08:21:14 PM · #12

Hmmm--I'm not familiar with that, but when you save the image, do you see options for the quality at which you can save your photo? If so, adjust that to be just under 150 KB, which is the limit here at DPC.

03/31/2006 08:33:12 PM · #13

My CanonA80 took really good macro shots for a P&S. Did you have it set on the macro setting? (That's the little picture of a flower) A tripod helps, but I've taken some pretty good shots by just supporting it on a stable surface. I used the auto focus and just made sure the subject was in the focus zone.

Edit: This tutorial should help with your artifact issues.

Message edited by author 2006-03-31 20:34:40.

03/31/2006 08:33:34 PM · #14

Well now - I learned something new ! I figured out how to adjust the compression.

Here's something I just did - is it any better than the watch ?

Not sure how to keep / get the background to white though - it's a piece of (very wrinkled) white fabric - a diaper to be specific.

Message edited by author 2006-03-31 20:34:18.

03/31/2006 08:35:21 PM · #15

Originally posted by greatandsmall:

Yes, I was using macro setting for the watch picture.

03/31/2006 08:39:26 PM · #16

Originally posted by kashi:

Well now - I learned something new ! I figured out how to adjust the compression.

Here's something I just did - is it any better than the watch ?

Not sure how to keep / get the background to white though - it's a piece of (very wrinkled) white fabric - a diaper to be specific.

This looks like a metering issue. A shallower DOF would help with the wrinkles. Are you using manual settings?

Message edited by author 2006-03-31 20:40:17.

03/31/2006 08:43:57 PM · #17

I don't have many good shots from my P&S, but I think this one turned out OK. It's a handheld macro using manual settings and natural light. The DOF is shallow, which helps blur the busy background. I think it's spot-metered because the subject is so dark. Without the right amount of light, detail would be lost.

Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM

03/31/2006 09:03:30 PM · #18

This shot was done using the macro function on my camera. I didn't use the flash, just set a custom white balance and used very crude softbox involving two t-shirts, two boxes, and a desk lamp. All in all, it worked out well.

dr rick

Canon EOS-300D Rebel

04/01/2006 12:09:32 AM · #19

Focus is critical when focusing close. Just a little camera movement towards or away from the subject between focus lock and shutter release can make a difference. To avoid this, use a tripod if possible, or find some other way to stabilize the camera. Or on most cameras, hold the shutter release all the way down from the beginning, which will take the photo as soon as focus lock is achieved. And avoid reframing after focusing, which often changes the focus point.

04/01/2006 11:21:16 AM · #20

Any suggestions on how to get the white balance set ? Or enough light, without having really blown out highlights ?

04/01/2006 11:27:58 AM · #21

If your camera has a manual white balance setting, which I'm pretty sure it would, all you need to do is put a piece of white computer paper in the location and lighting of your subject and set it to that. As for lighting without blown highlights, I use a simple desk lamp that shines through a white t-shirt. This works really well, but you need to make sure that the t-shirt does not stay in contact with the lamp for a long time as it gets very hot after a while. I've found that this method gives great results and will probably not cost you anything if you have a desk lamp and a white t-shirt. This won't be very bright but if you use a tripod, a slow shutter speed won't be a big deal. You have to make sure that you set the white balance for the lamp bulb though, or else everything will appear to be more yellow. Good luck!

04/01/2006 11:32:04 AM · #22

Originally posted by SamDoe1:

The camera *might* have a manual white balance setting, but I have yet to discover it. Nor do I know how to set it. Hmm - guess I need to go find my manual.

04/01/2006 11:39:06 AM · #23

I just looked up a few things on your camera, and it can do manual white balance. How to do it will be on page 82 of your manual, and if you can't find the paper manual, an electronic one is available here.

04/01/2006 12:25:49 PM · #24

That was so kind of you Mr. Sam Doe - thank you very much ! :D