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10/14/2005 05:35:48 PM · #1 |
| I've tried to take pics of a river and waterfall before and the shots came out so overexposed they were just white. My camera only goes to F8 and I can't figure out how to take the shots and have the water be "blurred". |
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10/14/2005 05:39:57 PM · #2 |
| What ISO are you set for? |
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10/14/2005 05:40:18 PM · #3 |
If you lowest ISO and highest aperture setting still overexpose at your desired shutter speed, your two remaining options are to set your Exposure compensation to a negative value, and/or use a neutral-density filter in front of the lens.
Message edited by author 2005-10-14 17:40:42. |
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10/14/2005 05:41:50 PM · #4 |
| thats a difficult thing to do in bright light unless you have a neutral density filter. |
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10/14/2005 05:50:28 PM · #5 |
Originally posted by GeneralE:
If you lowest ISO and highest aperture setting still overexpose at your desired shutter speed, your two remaining options are to set your Exposure compensation to a negative value, and/or use a neutral-density filter in front of the lens. |
I've done all that except for the filter. Will the filter make that big of a difference? |
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10/14/2005 05:52:17 PM · #6 |
Originally posted by GeneralE:
If you lowest ISO and highest aperture setting still overexpose at your desired shutter speed, your two remaining options are to set your Exposure compensation to a negative value, |
When you are already at f/8 and set a negative exposure compensation the only thing that the camera will do is shorten the shutter time again. That's what you do not want to get flow in a waterfall.
ND filter is the way to go or come back when the light is less powerful. A longer exposure early in the evening might do the trick.
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10/14/2005 05:57:31 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by A4wheelin:
Will the filter make that big of a difference? |
Depends on the strength of the the filter.
An ND8 filter gives you three stops of light. It is like stopping down to f/22 from f/8.
An ND400 filter is even more fun: 9 stops difference. :)
Message edited by author 2005-10-14 17:58:43.
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10/14/2005 06:04:23 PM · #8 |
Wait, as far as I remember, Canon G6 has a built-in ND filter (electronic) which gives you 3 stop light reduction. It should be down in the menues (it's called something like ND on, I think).
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10/14/2005 06:08:43 PM · #9 |
| I recently took shots of water flow at 12 in the noon (the worst time), the only way I could get it to work was with a ND filter and in the shade. I also used a circular polarizer to get rid of some of the reflections. I shot with an exposure time of 1sec, f/7.1, and ISO 200 and I was very pleased with the shot. |
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10/14/2005 07:56:38 PM · #10 |
This may be completely off-base (as my camera is completely different and far less complex than yours I'm sure), but I've had the best results shooting long exposure waterfalls (including F8+) in the late evenings - around 8 or 9 pm - no extra filters, polarizers, lenses, or anything. Sometimes ya gotta work with what ya got...
EDIT: Just shot F9+ yesterday at about 7pm during overcast conditions... (but was right on the border of being too much). Oh yeah - had to bump up to 1/15 sec.
Message edited by author 2005-10-14 20:00:38. |
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10/16/2005 03:13:37 AM · #11 |
Originally posted by ltsimring:
Wait, as far as I remember, Canon G6 has a built-in ND filter (electronic) which gives you 3 stop light reduction. It should be down in the menues (it's called something like ND on, I think). |
Wow, you're right!!! Thanks alot. Don't I feel stupid now. :) I'll have to try it out tomorrow and see how it works. |
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10/16/2005 03:17:01 AM · #12 |
| You are using a tripod correct? Also use the timer to take a picture so you don't get camera shake. |
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10/16/2005 04:29:35 AM · #13 |
If you're shooting a long exposure in bright sunlight, the reflections from the water may be causing some overexposure. As these are transient, the camera cannot meter for them, but they are captured during the exposure. As SJCarter said, perhaps try doing this later in the day, that's if you aren't already.
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