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05/09/2012 04:52:52 PM · #1 |
I'd love to see people's shots with the sun directly in the frame and know the exif data to try to get a feel for what proper settings will be like. This doesn't count actual sunsets/sunrises where the sun is right on the horizon but ones where the sun is above the horizon.
I'm working out details for the Bryce Canyon eclipse as much ahead of time as I can. |
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05/09/2012 06:50:10 PM · #2 |
Don't know if these will be much help:
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05/09/2012 07:05:13 PM · #3 |
There was a sun in frame challenge a few months ago.
Message edited by author 2012-05-09 19:06:01.
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05/09/2012 07:08:33 PM · #4 |
Mid-day Sun challenge in October 2010. It was Basic Edit ruleset. I liked that challenge!

Message edited by author 2012-05-09 19:09:06. |
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05/09/2012 07:49:39 PM · #5 |
I haven't been around much lately, but sun in frame is something that I play with a lot, being that we have so much of it here... I hope these help. Good luck with the eclipse images, and I look forward to seeing the end result.
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05/09/2012 07:52:47 PM · #6 |
and one more
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05/09/2012 08:00:53 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by Brat: I haven't been around much lately, but sun in frame is something that I play with a lot, being that we have so much of it here... I hope these help. Good luck with the eclipse images, and I look forward to seeing the end result.
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This one is perfect. I'm looking to try to capture this during the eclipse. My fear is that they will all look like the first ones posted in the thread (ie. pitch black except for a ring of the sun). Any special technique to get the exposure right? |
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05/09/2012 08:16:55 PM · #8 |
Not really, I just played with the settings, trying to keep the model reasonably sharp, and not blow it out too much, ending up with a fairly high aperture. I probably could have dropped the ISO a bit more, but needed a reasonable SS. I've archived the original, but I seem to recall that I darkened the top half a fair bit with curves, and multiply, and dodge & burn, to make the sun stand out, and pimp the rays. |
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05/09/2012 08:40:28 PM · #9 |
I think that "best practice" is going to be an HDR-like strategy. I'd shoot all the way from the proper exposure for the scene down to about -6 stops. I would not shoot every stop, perhaps every two stops. Often, you don't really even need to go that close. This shot:
was a combination of two exposures 4 stops apart.
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05/09/2012 09:12:59 PM · #10 |
This probably won't help, but in honor of Maurice Sendak's passing:
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05/09/2012 09:23:15 PM · #11 |
Unfortunately, I don't remember the settings. However, I believe that I kept trying to under expose it to get it right, and it couldn't underexpose enough. So I switched to manual so I could control it. So it was more than 3 stops underexposed.
Message edited by author 2012-05-09 21:25:33. |
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05/09/2012 09:43:32 PM · #12 |
This first one is actually a handlheld HDR, so may not really be helpful.

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05/09/2012 09:45:36 PM · #13 |
used a nd filter |
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05/09/2012 10:47:05 PM · #14 |
For a long exposure example (10-stop ND filter)
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05/09/2012 11:05:33 PM · #15 |
Eclipse Chasers website
There may be some tips here that would be useful.
There is a warning in the Nikon D7000 manual about using "live view" directly into the sun, related to damaging the sensor or tronix. The same may apply to Canon cameras.
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05/09/2012 11:27:36 PM · #16 |
Originally posted by kirbic: I think that "best practice" is going to be an HDR-like strategy. I'd shoot all the way from the proper exposure for the scene down to about -6 stops. I would not shoot every stop, perhaps every two stops. Often, you don't really even need to go that close. This shot:
was a combination of two exposures 4 stops apart. |
Yes! This is probably really close to the conditions I will find although the sun will be at 10 degrees and not on the horizon. I'm just praying I can get some detail in e landscape while also being able to create some sort of gradient that doesn't look totally fake in the sky. But don't worry, I'll have a whole four minutes to employ trial and error! |
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05/09/2012 11:41:52 PM · #17 |
One of the more interesting tips in the website is to set up and shoot video of the activities and sounds/comments if you are with a group of people. I probably would not have thought of that.
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05/10/2012 12:40:06 AM · #18 |
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05/10/2012 07:00:03 AM · #19 |
I know!!! You have 4 minutes! Take the shot, bring a search light, and paint the foreground with light while shooting the eclipse! |
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05/10/2012 08:09:22 AM · #20 |
I would think you have a few options. One is shooting against an interesting foreground as a silhouette, two is using a hdr technique and third is using a graduated nd filter. Just my thoughts of course. There are a ton of photos online if you use a google search but not sure if many of them give the settings. Good luck though it sounds like an amazing opportunity to witness.
eta: a poorly done hdr of mine 
Message edited by author 2012-05-10 08:11:47. |
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05/10/2012 09:32:14 AM · #21 |
I shot this one a month or so ago. This is a sunrise, but it is about where the position of the sun will be during the eclipse, maybe this is a little higher.
Ill have to get the EXIF data from home.
Fron an equipment perspective, this was taken with the 14-150mm Olympus zoom (28-300mm equiv). I was very please with the lack of lens flare and the detail in the grass. |
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05/10/2012 10:48:06 AM · #22 |
I agree that either a GND or shooting bracketed would be good.
This was taken at sunrise on the same day as my April FS. This is the tonemapped outcome of a 3 shots bracketed and the frame that was the darkest of the 3. (no GND)
this was shot at f/8, iso 100, shutter 1/60
hope this helps. |
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05/10/2012 11:38:20 AM · #23 |
One of the takehome lessons I've noticed is that my composition should include some flat land. It's this part of the landscape that is likely to reflect enough light to bring in some detail. If I only frame the eclipse behind a shoulder of rock, I'm likely to have sillhouette only.
Last night I shot straight into the sun with my 9-stop ND filter and it was quite easy. The exposures were in the range of 1/30th to 1/250th at ISO 100 and an aperture in the 5.6-8.0 range. That gives plenty of support to the idea that I could shoot the eclipse with only 2-4 stops of a polarizer, 2-stop ND filter or even graduated ND filter. |
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05/10/2012 10:07:11 PM · #24 |
Originally posted by scarbrd: I shot this one a month or so ago. This is a sunrise, but it is about where the position of the sun will be during the eclipse, maybe this is a little higher.
Ill have to get the EXIF data from home.
Fron an equipment perspective, this was taken with the 14-150mm Olympus zoom (28-300mm equiv). I was very please with the lack of lens flare and the detail in the grass. |
EXIF Data
ISO 200
Exposure bias -1 EV
F5.6
1/2500 shutter
Focal Length - 90mm (180mm Equiv)
Lens 14-150mm 4.0-5.6 Digital ED m.Zuiko |
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