| Author | Thread |
|
|
01/15/2004 09:08:09 PM · #1 |
It was afternoon time and the light was so intense. I had to take this photo during that time. I now guess except for the bear part, it has been washed out.
What would have you done during such a condition? Please mention what all adjustments you would do. It will be helpful not only for me, but for all who may have to take shots under these conditions.
 |
|
|
|
01/15/2004 09:27:11 PM · #2 |
seems overexposed. I would have put my camera in manual mode & adjust a fast (maybe even fastest) shutter speed with a small aperture. I would take serval shots to see which one at what levels would help the shot out the best. There also seems to be a lot of noise so if you used digital zoom, I would ex that out.
I am just a novice a this so hopefully someone more advanced will come along & either agree or disagree with me.
|
|
|
|
01/15/2004 09:34:03 PM · #3 |
What were the settings and equipment used for the shot?
Message edited by author 2004-01-15 21:34:19. |
|
|
|
01/15/2004 09:35:27 PM · #4 |
a polarizer may have helped you a bit.
|
|
|
|
01/15/2004 10:04:53 PM · #5 |
I have seen people use umbrellas at parks or zoos when taking photos with bright light.
Simplistic, and it wont solve the problem, but it may not make it quite as bad. |
|
|
|
01/15/2004 10:21:03 PM · #6 |
Can you adjust your white balance? I don't know if it would do anything for this, but there is a setting for bright sunlight on my Olympus. I'm still a novice too, so that is the only I idea I have. ^_^
|
|
|
|
01/15/2004 10:27:43 PM · #7 |
If your were using the Olympus D-390, you could decrease your exposure through your 'Exposure Compensation' setting in the camera. I don't believe there are many other 'manual' options on that model that would help though.
|
|
|
|
01/15/2004 10:32:26 PM · #8 |
Using AE (Auto-exposure)lock or hold. You can point to your subject get the right reading and put it on hold. If you did use it you may have aimed at the bear and move the camera a little bit lower thus the overblown image.
Circular polarizer is a must. Emergency situation a pair of polarized sunglasses. Just check the focus to make sure it's not on the sunglasses.
Rooster's suggestion is called bracketing. If you have the time you can take a couple of shots at different settings and when you get home check the EXIF info. Either remember or right down the settings so you know next time.
The cool part about digital cameras is that you can pretty much take unlimited shots for free. Learning your camera is not easy. Practice, practice, practice. |
|
|
|
01/15/2004 11:25:49 PM · #9 |
Another option that works for me often is I take two meter readings with my camera in spot metering mode. One reading would be of the darkest shadow area and one of the lightest highlight area. Then average the two and it usually comes out pretty good.
For example, with your camera in a priority mode, such as aperture priority, set the aperture you want and then take the two readings...one of a very bright area (but always away from the sun) and one of the darkest shadow area. Then average the two. If the shutter reading from the highlight area is 1/250th and the one from the darkest is 1/30th then their average would be about 1/140th...so take the closet reading from that.
hope this helped. |
|
|
|
01/16/2004 04:42:54 AM · #10 |
Taking a quick look at your camera, I see that no real manual controls, but it does have exp compensation that would be useful for that situation, as casualguy has mentioned.
Originally posted by Ami Yuy:
Can you adjust your white balance? I don't know if it would do anything for this, but there is a setting for bright sunlight on my Olympus. I'm still a novice too, so that is the only I idea I have. ^_^ |
this only adjusts color balance, not exposure.
Did it have spot metering? did you have it set on that? Without manual controls, it is hard to compensate, but having the "scene metering" or 16 point or whatever "all over shot" metering will average out the whole scene. Then going on the + side of exp compensation can help. Alot of experimenting needs to be done, sounds to me. (C: Best way to learn though
|
|
|
|
01/16/2004 04:57:18 AM · #11 |
Even easier is to take two images, a long tradition.
Meter off the rock and take picture 1
Meter off the bear and take picture 2 then combine |
|
|
|
01/16/2004 08:41:00 AM · #12 |
Yes my camera do have exposure compensation but when i use -0.5 or -1.0 or anything lower, i am getting the bear as a silhouette. My setting was on spot metering mode!
|
|
|
|
01/16/2004 08:57:02 AM · #13 |
Originally posted by jonpink:
Even easier is to take two images, a long tradition.
Meter off the rock and take picture 1
Meter off the bear and take picture 2 then combine |
Question #1, will bear sit that still that long?
Question #2, I've heard this before, tried it once, didn't get the results I wanted. Can someone explain in detail or point to tutorial link?
|
|
|
|
01/16/2004 09:15:26 AM · #14 |
I think you want to try +1. That is what is usually used for use on snow, etc.
|
|
|
|
01/16/2004 09:23:45 AM · #15 |
exactly.. i used the +1 exposure compensation for the shot and now i think if i used flash would it have been better?
|
|
|
|
01/16/2004 10:48:43 AM · #16 |
Originally posted by amateurboi:
It was afternoon time and the light was so intense. I had to take this photo during that time. |
Some times the correct answer is knowing when not to take the picture at all...
|
|
|
|
01/16/2004 10:52:58 AM · #17 |
| Thanks for saying that Gordon. I was trying to compose something to the same effect, but it got to be too wordy. Get a nice book on the zone system is my suggestion. |
|
|
|
01/16/2004 10:55:56 AM · #18 |
Originally posted by amateurboi:
Yes my camera do have exposure compensation but when i use -0.5 or -1.0 or anything lower, i am getting the bear as a silhouette. My setting was on spot metering mode! |
This is because you have a shot with too much exposure range to ever capture correctly - you'll either get a black smudge for the bear, or the background blown out as you described. This is very common for bright sunny days. You can do digital composites to extend the dynamic range, but often the best response is to take the picture at a different time of day or under different weather conditions. Your eye has a much wider range of light to dark that it can adapt to than any camera ever can (roughly twice as much for any given scene I seem to remember) Digital is better in this respect than slide film - but it does record very differently to the way your eye sees. Learning how to work with that is one of the real skills in photography
Message edited by author 2004-01-16 10:58:55.
|
|
|
|
01/16/2004 11:09:32 AM · #19 |
|
Home -
Challenges -
Community -
League -
Photos -
Cameras -
Lenses -
Learn -
Help -
Terms of Use -
Privacy -
Top ^
DPChallenge, and website content and design, Copyright © 2001-2025 Challenging Technologies, LLC.
All digital photo copyrights belong to the photographers and may not be used without permission.
Current Server Time: 08/30/2025 11:02:52 PM EDT.
