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02/09/2004 08:52:47 PM · #1 |
I am thinking about getting one or the other. Is the EOS 10d worth the price difference? |
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02/09/2004 08:58:34 PM · #2 |
If you have the money definetly!! |
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02/09/2004 09:09:04 PM · #3 |
Why? Customizable settings and a harder shell? |
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02/09/2004 09:13:44 PM · #4 |
I really like the miror lock up function on the 10D, for those super close up shots. I personally prefer the black body.
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02/09/2004 09:15:06 PM · #5 |
for the 500 $ differnce you can buy nice lense,I allready spent 1200 on Lenses! |
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02/09/2004 09:15:47 PM · #6 |
IMHO yes, without any doubt, however I am somewhat biased... seriously, there are a lot of small differences, in addition to some relatively major ones. There is definitely enough diference to justify the cost differential. Some of the most noteworthy differences:
- Mirror & pentaprism on 10D, "pentamirror" on 300D
- Larger frame buffer (9 vs. 4 frames)
- Faster frame rate (3 fps vs. 2.5 fps)
- Magnesium body
- Lack of PC Synch port on 300D
- N3 remote connector on 10D, less functional E3 connector on 300D
- Custom functions; yes, they are really useful.
- 3200 ISO (OK, I'd have to be desperate to use this, but it's there)
- Kelvin white balance settings
Certainly not an exhaustive list, though it covers most of the majors.
I would certainly wait until after PMA (only a couple weeks) just to see if, on the off chance, anything is announced.
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02/09/2004 09:17:54 PM · #7 |
All these reasons! I am super happy with the 300D but if i had deeper pockets the 10D has more flexibility and a stronger shell never hurts |
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02/09/2004 09:19:12 PM · #8 |
Thanks for the help. Looks like for my money the EOS 10d is a sure thing. |
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02/09/2004 09:22:29 PM · #9 |
I still need a Sigma 105 EX to catch up to you guys, maybe in a couple of months!!Drool,drool! |
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02/09/2004 09:23:59 PM · #10 |
Some differences to consider:
300d: ISO 100-1600
10d: ISO 100-3200
300d: white balance presets + manual
10d: white balance presets + manual + kelvin scale
300d: external flash: hotshoe
10d: external flash: hotshoe & sync
300d: exposure compensation in 1/3 stop intervals
10d: exposure compensation in 1/3 and 1/2 stop intervals
300d: metering: auto
10d: metering: evaluative, center weighted, partial
300d: continuous drive: 2.5 fps / 4 images
10d: continuous drive: 3 fps / 9 images
300d: remote control: e3 connector, infrared
10d: remote control: n3 connector
300d: mirror lockup: no
10d: mirror lockup: yes
300d: construction: plastic based on eos rebel body
10d: construction: magnesium alloy based on elan 7 body
These are some of the differences... you should evaluate your needs and make a decision based on those needs...
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02/09/2004 09:31:49 PM · #11 |
Good one John
Wants and Needs |
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02/09/2004 09:46:11 PM · #12 |
No one has even asked what the primary use of the camera will be. Those nice extras may not be even the least bit important.
I have the DR and I love it. Sure, if someone wants to give me a 10D in it's place, why not. I wouldn't have paid the extra money though because the DR does everything I really want to do right now.
I do like that you guys have pointed out the differences between the two cameras though. That's what should really be used to judge which camera to go with. Look at the differences and see how many of them really are a benefit to you and how many you will use.
Either way I'm sure you will be happy with your purchase.
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02/09/2004 09:54:46 PM · #13 |
Thanks John for the concise comparison. |
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02/09/2004 11:48:02 PM · #14 |
Check the online manual: //www.canoneos.com/digitalrebel/download/manual.pdf
Page 122 has a 'Function Availability Table' which tells you what you can do in various modes. Take a look and you'll quickly see some of the limitations. Several things would annoy me tremendously, such as the inability to use AI Servo focus in any mode but 'Sport' which entails using an automatic ISO and white balance setting, shutter priority (I think) and other annoyances like not being able to set a static focus point, use RAW or set exposure compensation. Not being able to use RAW AND not being able to set a custom WB is a serious drawback.
There are lots of little niggly things to deal with. There are different metering modes, but they're not all selectable independently. Centerweighted average, for instance, is only available in M mode. I use Av mode 90% of the time, but the only focus mode available in that is AI Focus. There's no One Shot focus available in Tv, Av or even M! Serious, serious drawback in my estimation. I don't use AI Focus at all as I find it intensely annoying when the servo kicks back in.
These things are more important to me than any black, magnesium body is. The 300D can produce images just as striking as a 10D, but it's kinda like doing it with one hand tied behind your back. I have a friend who's buying one and I have no doubts that it's the right camera for him. Just be sure to keep those things in mind when choosing the camera that's right for you.
Message edited by author 2004-02-09 23:49:03. |
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02/10/2004 02:57:42 AM · #15 |
The 10D costs more so it must be better (this extra cost must also be justified by the owners to their partners/bank managers/cat/anyone who asks) :)
Message edited by author 2004-02-10 03:02:56. |
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02/10/2004 06:56:04 AM · #16 |
Depends on how much you want to spend. Decent 10D set up is about $2500, useful Drebel setup is about $2000.
If you aren't willing or able to spend that much on it, then probably something like a sony f828 or the new canon pro1 might be worth considering instead. The basic/ cheap canon lenses are going to give you pictures a whole lot worse than something you could get from a $800 ZLR
Message edited by author 2004-02-10 06:58:14.
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02/10/2004 07:06:38 AM · #17 |
Damn...I wish I had some money, i'd buy both. |
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02/10/2004 07:32:06 AM · #18 |
Jimmy - what do you mean by 'not being able to use RAW'? The 300D has a RAW setting, or am I misreading your post?
edit - ok I see what you mean now, just read your post again..
Message edited by author 2004-02-10 07:33:11.
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02/10/2004 07:43:34 AM · #19 |
Another one to consider, the Drebel doesn't let you do flash second curtain sync or flash exposure control, unless you get a 550EX flash
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02/10/2004 11:18:12 AM · #20 |
Originally posted by Gordon: Depends on how much you want to spend. Decent 10D set up is about $2500, useful Drebel setup is about $2000.
If you aren't willing or able to spend that much on it, then probably something like a sony f828 or the new canon pro1 might be worth considering instead. The basic/ cheap canon lenses are going to give you pictures a whole lot worse than something you could get from a $800 ZLR |
My "useful" Rebel cost me $1076.00. Way less then 2 thousand. I am very happy with the results on the "cheap" lens that came with it, way better then any digital non SLR that I have owned. For the price, it was a perfect camera for me, limitations and all :) Plus I can always upgrade my lenses in the future when money allows.
Just curious if you've seen any comparisons out there between the f828, pro1 and Rebel with a cheap lens and if you could direct me towards them. |
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02/10/2004 11:31:32 AM · #21 |
Have you seen the difference between a 300D with the kit lens and shots taken with a high quality Canon lens ?
It is night and day. The kit lens is the weakest link in the chain by a long way. It is a great $100 lens. That is not the same as a great lens.
The 300D is either equivalent or better than the 10D in basic capturing capability, although it is more crippled in terms of controllability of that process.
As for F828 vs D300 reviews, here is one There are plenty more out there I suspect, but haven't looked. As always, it depends what you plan on doing with it, but if you struggle to afford the Drebel + kit lens and don't expect to buy many further lenses, then the F828 might be worth considering as a more complete system for the asking price.
Message edited by author 2004-02-10 12:53:54.
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02/10/2004 12:17:55 PM · #22 |
I own a Digital Rebel and the major drawback I find is the body construction. Having a non-plastic body would surely give you that greater peice of mind when carrying it around. Yet as suggested by others, it all depends on your needs.
Message edited by author 2004-02-10 12:18:12. |
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02/10/2004 04:40:14 PM · #23 |
Originally posted by Gordon: Have you seen the difference between a 300D with the kit lens and shots taken with a high quality Canon lens ?
It is night and day. The kit lens is the weakest link in the chain by a long way. It is a great $100 lens. That is not the same as a great lens.
The 300D is either equivalent or better than the 10D in basic capturing capability, although it is more crippled in terms of controllability of that process.
As for F828 vs D300 reviews, here is one There are plenty more out there I suspect, but haven't looked. As always, it depends what you plan on doing with it, but if you struggle to afford the Drebel + kit lens and don't expect to buy many further lenses, then the F828 might be worth considering as a more complete system for the asking price. |
Thanks, Gordon.
Interesting read. The Sony f828 was on my list when I bought my Rebel. Ultimatley the interchangable lens factor made the descision for me.
I am sure the high end Canon lenses are awesome, but for me, the lens I have now is so much better then and digital lens I have had before that I think it's great!
As for the body, I am a backpacker who carries my camera with me, the lighter weight body is great for that purpose and was also one of the deciding factors for me.
Heck, I almost bought a Film SLR instead of the D Rebel. I am happy with my purchase and one day will be even happier when I get a greater lens.
So what are the major differences between the many levels of lenses, it's so confusing to me, what about the mid-grade lenses? Are they worth the money? What are all the numbers and letters after the lenses focal length?
Anyone know a good article(not too technical) that can explain the differences?
Message edited by author 2004-02-10 16:41:50. |
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02/10/2004 05:01:57 PM · #24 |
Originally posted by Paige: So what are the major differences between the many levels of lenses, it's so confusing to me, what about the mid-grade lenses? Are they worth the money? What are all the numbers and letters after the lenses focal length?
Anyone know a good article(not too technical) that can explain the differences? |
//www.usa.canon.com/eflenses/lens101/index.html is a good start (though obviously biased (!)
major differences:
- The numbers relate to the magnification or 'reach' of the lens.
50mm is roughly what your eye sees on a 35mm camera.
Anything less than 50mm is a wide angle lens, anything higher than 50mm
is a telephoto (magnifies the scene and brings you 'closer' to the action)
- Final image quality - colour fringes, general sharpness of the image, resistance to flare, contrast of the resulting image
- Lens 'speed' which is how wide an aperture you can have. A 'fast' lens lets a lot of light in (has a low max aperture number) so you can use a really fast shutter speed - important particularly for sports/ low light photography. These are the f4.5 f5.6 type numbers, that's the maximum aperture you can have with that lens. a F2.8 lens for example is 'faster' than a f5.6 lens - you can shoot 2 stops faster shutter speed with the F2.8 than you can with the f5.6, when both were as wide open as they can be.
Zoom lenses are often written as 70mm-200mm which is the widest and closest focusing distances they work at. The aperture is often given as f4.5/f5.6 for zooms, as the maximum aperture changes as you zoom (some lenses are constant aperture - which is actually more complex to make and more expensive)
- focus speed
- construction quality
Many of the image quality issues become very visible once you start trying to print beyond 8x10s or so. The other issues change what kind of photographs you can shoot and how easy the lenses are to use in practical situations (and are very dependant on what you plan to do)
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02/10/2004 05:13:50 PM · #25 |
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