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08/17/2009 03:38:11 PM · #1 |
| i just got a nikon d5000 kit and a sigma 70-200 2.8. when looking through the viewfinder i can see very fine detail, such as hair on a spiders leg but the photo is not as clear. shouldn't the picture be just as clear? |
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08/17/2009 03:40:08 PM · #2 |
| Have you tried the shot on a tripod? You need to make sure to eliminate any user movement to get an idea if there's a problem. |
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08/17/2009 03:42:28 PM · #3 |
No, the dSLR relies on you to tell it how sharp you want it to be. Better photographers typically do all their contrast and sharpening in post-processing, like photoshop, where they have more precise control over it. I'll get back to you on this if someone doesn't beat me to it, gotta run now.
R. |
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08/17/2009 03:48:06 PM · #4 |
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08/17/2009 03:52:16 PM · #5 |
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08/17/2009 03:52:16 PM · #6 |
There are numerous possible causes, care to post a few pictures?
- Alex |
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08/17/2009 03:52:47 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by vawendy:
Have you tried the shot on a tripod? You need to make sure to eliminate any user movement to get an idea if there's a problem. |
I agree, when I first started out I always tried to get a lot of DOF which means the F stop is higher and the shutter speed longer which can cause the image to come out looking like it is not in focus because the camera will pick up the slightest amount of camera movement. Using a tri-pod and or faster shutter speeds may help. Posting an example with the camera settings may be helpful. |
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08/17/2009 04:13:28 PM · #8 |
These suggestions regarding camera movement/stability may, of course, be right on the money; the image may look crisp in the viewfinder but movement during exposure can make a mockery of that.
Nevertheless, it's also equally possible OP is suffering from the "OMG, I just got a dSLR and my P&S shots were MUCH crisper!" syndrome. And this happens because processing algorithms in the P&S are designed to produce a sharp, saturated, contrasty image right out of the camera, whereas the dSLR is designed on the assumption the photographer will do that sort of image adjustment on his/her own computer.
Although there are, of course, presets that can be used on the d5000 that will produce those P&S -type JPGs right out of the camera. The manual will have that information.
R. |
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08/17/2009 04:21:25 PM · #9 |
| Also, did another lens come with the kit (other than the Sigma?) Would be curious if it's just the Sigma or is another lens, as well. |
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08/17/2009 04:29:38 PM · #10 |
do you have a dial that sets the sharpness on "the view finer"...it may be set to really sharp...so it appears sharper in camera...
thats happened to me... |
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08/17/2009 04:45:50 PM · #11 |
| As others have suggested, if you can post an example, the cause should be easily nailed down. Make sure to also post important info such as the mode you were shooting in (such as auto, aperture priority, manual, etc), aperture, shutter speed, focal length, and ISO. |
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08/17/2009 05:02:59 PM · #12 |
Make a mark or place a small object on a surface that has fine, high-contrast detail, and shoot at a 45 degree angle to the surface, focusing on the mark or object. Use the center focus point, to make sure that you are really locking onto what you intend. Shoot on a tripod, and use mirror lockup to avoid camera shake. Shoot in Av mode, and take the same shot at f/2.8, f/4, and f/5.6.
Look at the f/2.8 results on-screen at 100%. Make sure the focus plane is where you expect it to be by looking at where detail is sharpest and whether that at the point of focus, behind or in front. Repeat for the f/4 and f/5.6 images.
The above test will tell you if the focus is off, or if the lens is just a little soft at f/2.8. |
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08/17/2009 05:04:45 PM · #13 |
Originally posted by liberty:
do you have a dial that sets the sharpness on "the view finer"...it may be set to really sharp...so it appears sharper in camera...
thats happened to me... |
It's called the "dioptic" adjustment.
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08/17/2009 06:06:49 PM · #14 |
| thanks for all the tips. i'm happy now. it was apparently camera shake. i used the flash, exposure delay and self timer and now i'm getting the detail i was after. |
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08/17/2009 07:36:27 PM · #15 |
Dunno about the Nikons, but the Canon wireless remote is great for such stuff. I would assume the same can be had for the Nikon.
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08/17/2009 07:58:41 PM · #16 |
For the über-non-motion purists, along with using a tripod and wireless shutter release, you should defintely use the mirror lock-up feature of your camera. There is a subtle vibration/blur introduced whenever the mirror "slaps" open to capture an image. I recommend this for your most intricate and detailed compositions.
I used all three vibration-minimizing techniques in these images:
 .  . 
 . 
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08/18/2009 06:05:26 AM · #17 |
| Does the D5000 have mirror lockup? My D80 doesn't except for when cleaning. |
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08/18/2009 08:27:08 AM · #18 |
Originally posted by aliqui:
Does the D5000 have mirror lockup? My D80 doesn't except for when cleaning. |
I just looked at the online manual and it appears that the D5000 doesn't either except for cleaning the sensor.
Shutter Release Modes
Single-frame [S] mode
Continuous Frame Shooting (Approx 4 FPS)
Live View [LV] mode
Self-timer mode
Delayed remote
Quick response
Quiet shutter-release
Message edited by author 2009-08-18 08:29:49. |
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08/18/2009 08:56:40 AM · #19 |
Originally posted by rodneyg:
Originally posted by aliqui:
Does the D5000 have mirror lockup? My D80 doesn't except for when cleaning. |
I just looked at the online manual and it appears that the D5000 doesn't either except for cleaning the sensor.
Shutter Release Modes
Single-frame [S] mode
Continuous Frame Shooting (Approx 4 FPS)
Live View [LV] mode
Self-timer mode
Delayed remote
Quick response
Quiet shutter-release |
Check the self-timer mode...I know on my camera (besides normal cleaning mode) it goes into mirror lockup with the 2-second timer. |
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