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DPChallenge Forums >> Individual Photograph Discussion >> SPs with lotsa light
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12/26/2007 11:56:46 PM · #1
Ok, I am looking for some help here :)

I shot these (intentionally) into the sun going for a backlit effect. However, I am wondering how to kill the softness around me while still shooting into the light :)

Understand, I want the lens flare, just not the ambient light in front of me... weird, I know. Enough blabbing, here they are:







Thanks guys :)

ETA: I screwed up LOL these were all taken with my 18-55mm at f5 and f5.6, respectively. Shutter was 1/40s ISO 100. sorry bout that :)

Message edited by author 2007-12-27 00:09:18.
12/27/2007 12:09:53 AM · #2
So you want a silhouette, edged with light, and a lens flare.

Correct?
12/27/2007 12:10:36 AM · #3
i like the backlit hair also. perhaps a lens hood or a filter. I know it might kill part of what your after. keep trying different things.
12/27/2007 12:12:55 AM · #4
Originally posted by Man_Called_Horse:

So you want a silhouette, edged with light, and a lens flare.

Correct?


Sort of, but I also want to retain the detail in the face... I want me to be lit, but brighter from behind with the lens flare and with a sharper focus.
12/27/2007 12:14:25 AM · #5
Originally posted by briantammy:

i like the backlit hair also. perhaps a lens hood or a filter. I know it might kill part of what your after. keep trying different things.


Always :) Thanks!!
12/27/2007 12:14:46 AM · #6
From what I understand (not all of which is correct), oblique light coming into a lens can very easily be scattered between the edges of each element in a lens. This causes loss of contrast and an overall washing out...

I would imagine that it could be fairly tricky to balance the amount of oblique light coming in (via angle of lens and lens coverings) to get just a little bit of flare and less lost contrast.

if there was any information on how to do lens flare the old way, I know that I'd be interested in seeing it.
12/27/2007 12:15:00 AM · #7
A grad filter may do the trick. Say a ND9 grad. Or PS the parts of your subject darker perhaps.
12/27/2007 12:16:48 AM · #8
Originally posted by Man_Called_Horse:

A grad filter may do the trick. Say a ND9 grad. Or PS the parts of your subject darker perhaps.


Ohhhhhh good idea!! I will try that. I am trying to avoid Photoshop... already had to boost the contrast a hair.
12/27/2007 12:17:07 AM · #9
Did you have a UV (or any other) filter on your lens? If so, take it off.

Every piece of glass in front of the lens has the potential for creating glare ... and glare means reduced contrast (and hence, the ambient light and softness you are seeing). Another possibility is to switch to higher quality glass. But lots of people keep UV filters on their lenses, so I'll assume that's the "worst" part of your glass right there. So just remove it.

I don't put a UV filter on my lenses. Specifically because I don't want any extra glare or reflections coming from the various light sources around the subject.

Some people use the UV filter to protect the lens. To that end ... I always, always, always, have a lens hood on. I only use a filter if it meeds a specific need (polarizer, graduated neutral density, etc).

Message edited by author 2007-12-27 00:17:38.
12/27/2007 12:17:25 AM · #10
maybe try a reflector to get a little more light on your face? : )
12/27/2007 12:17:34 AM · #11
you might also try using a smaller aperature and a flash or reflector for fill lighting.
12/27/2007 12:18:01 AM · #12
Originally posted by eschelar:

From what I understand (not all of which is correct), oblique light coming into a lens can very easily be scattered between the edges of each element in a lens. This causes loss of contrast and an overall washing out...

I would imagine that it could be fairly tricky to balance the amount of oblique light coming in (via angle of lens and lens coverings) to get just a little bit of flare and less lost contrast.

if there was any information on how to do lens flare the old way, I know that I'd be interested in seeing it.


hmmmmmm, interesting... I will try different angles...
12/27/2007 12:19:02 AM · #13
Originally posted by dwterry:

Did you have a UV (or any other) filter on your lens? If so, take it off.

Every piece of glass in front of the lens has the potential for creating glare ... and glare means reduced contrast (and hence, the ambient light and softness you are seeing). Another possibility is to switch to higher quality glass. But lots of people keep UV filters on their lenses, so I'll assume that's the "worst" part of your glass right there. So just remove it.

I don't put a UV filter on my lenses. Specifically because I don't want any extra glare or reflections coming from the various light sources around the subject.

Some people use the UV filter to protect the lens. To that end ... I always, always, always, have a lens hood on. I only use a filter if it meeds a specific need (polarizer, graduated neutral density, etc).


I did not have a filter on it... I should have tried the hood I suppose...
12/27/2007 12:22:04 AM · #14
Originally posted by nixter:

maybe try a reflector to get a little more light on your face? : )


I think that the setup for a reshoot is going to be very complicated... LOL

But I will try this too. Don't have a whole lot of time when the sun hits that spot (maybe an hour) and only got 9 or so today that you could even see well. grrrrr
12/27/2007 12:29:38 AM · #15
'shooting against the light' - one of my favorite subjects (not that I'm any good at it yet LOL)

_ Increase shutter speed to reduce ambient light hitting stuff you don't want very bright and get a sharper image

- Decrease aperture (start @ ~ F11 & go smaller), to decrease ambient light, and relative brightness of the sun (though you'll still have plenty)

Step 3... just come over to the house & we can BOTH get some practice! (been dying to shoot lately) besides, that 'golden hour' stretches to a lot longer on this side of the river ;)

(the other reason is because ya need LOTS of flash to pull it off, and we can use all our portables... or just drag goliath out in the yard! Also, we can use a huge worklight (1000 watt), OR the Hensel as the backlight source, and not be controlled by time of day)

Message edited by author 2007-12-27 00:36:09.
12/27/2007 12:33:02 AM · #16
Originally posted by TCGuru:

Originally posted by eschelar:

.snip


hmmmmmm, interesting... I will try different angles...

subtle, subtle changes make a huge difference with this.

Work on a tripod, set up your shot using a test subject (teddy bears are nice and light for tossing out of frame) and move quickly into the frame. Wireless remotes will give you more freedom to take the poses you want without relying on an inefficient timer.

As good as reflectors are, they can be a bit of a pain unless you have a really effective stand or an assistant with a lot of patience.

For my 50mm, I have a rubber lens hood that has a pretty nice ability to be adjusted in quite a number of ways. For the reason D.Terry mentioned below, my really really sharp glass doesn't get a filter.
12/27/2007 12:35:01 AM · #17
Originally posted by rossbilly:

'shooting against the light' - one of my favorite subjects (not that I'm any good at it yet LOL)

_ Increase shutter speed to reduce ambient light hitting stuff you don't want very bright and get a sharper image

- Decrease aperture (start @ ~ F11 & go smaller), to decrease ambient light, and relative brightness of the sun (though you'll still have plenty)

Step 3... just come over to the house & we can BOTH get some practice! (been dying to shoot lately) besides, that 'golden hour' stretches to a lot longer on this side of the river ;)

(the other reason is because ya need LOTS of flash to pull it off, and we can use all our portables... or just drag goliath out in the yard!)


hehe. OK... we need to do that anyway :P
12/27/2007 12:37:18 AM · #18
Originally posted by eschelar:

Originally posted by TCGuru:

Originally posted by eschelar:

.snip


hmmmmmm, interesting... I will try different angles...

subtle, subtle changes make a huge difference with this.

Work on a tripod, set up your shot using a test subject (teddy bears are nice and light for tossing out of frame) and move quickly into the frame. Wireless remotes will give you more freedom to take the poses you want without relying on an inefficient timer.

As good as reflectors are, they can be a bit of a pain unless you have a really effective stand or an assistant with a lot of patience.

For my 50mm, I have a rubber lens hood that has a pretty nice ability to be adjusted in quite a number of ways. For the reason D.Terry mentioned below, my really really sharp glass doesn't get a filter.


I have written all of this down... you guys are the best!! I will try again (probably tomorrow as I am in an off-season right now). If anyone has anything to add, go ahead and I will check back in the mornin :)

THANKS AGAIN!!!! :)
12/27/2007 02:07:38 AM · #19
Never mind. *smirk*

Message edited by author 2007-12-27 02:10:46.
12/27/2007 03:01:19 AM · #20
Here is one of my into the light shots but with details in the would be shadows area. I believe it is from all the light bouncing around on the concrete. If you don't have a reflector maybe you can find an east facing building with a field so the setting sun would bounce reflected light back onto you. If you can't find that maybe you can park you car in a field and get that bounced light. To get the star on the sun I used an aperture of f/13. I had a circular polarizer on but with the Sigma wide angle on I think I would have had flares anyway. Maybe this helps. :)
12/27/2007 03:22:49 AM · #21
What you are doing is called contre jour... or shooting against the light.

It's not the easiest thing to do and pretty much requires quality glass.

Some things that CAN help:
*lens hood to keep light from grazing across the front element. This can help more than expected against the sun.

*big huge reflector on the subject, which would allow you to stop down the b/g and incoming lightsource.

*circular polarizers

*grad ND's... although you have to be careful not to cover the subject

*creative PP to increase subject contrast
12/27/2007 03:28:53 AM · #22
Originally posted by briantammy:

you might also try using a smaller aperature and a flash or reflector for fill lighting.


+1

Lots of fill flash.

bazz.
12/27/2007 03:36:36 AM · #23
fill flash might actually not be possible in this situation, without severe DoF compromises, which may or may not exacerbate the issue.
12/27/2007 03:50:10 AM · #24
Originally posted by fotomann_forever:

fill flash might actually not be possible in this situation, without severe DoF compromises, which may or may not exacerbate the issue.


Your right....it may not be. It'll come down to the power of the flash being used. Ideally you want to match the ambient light or even overpower it by up to a stop if you prefer to have the background slightly darker than the subject.

bazz.
12/27/2007 07:00:42 AM · #25
Had a quick crack at it tonight as sunset was soon after replying to this thread.

Setup was a single 500W mono, (GN80), high on camera left and with enough power to balance the ambient light



Ignoring all the other obvious issues with this image, is it what your trying to achieve re lighting?

bazz.
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