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09/09/2003 10:01:04 AM · #1 |
Was it just me, or were there tons of 4s and 5s in the insect challenge, with the occasional 9 and 10 jumping out to bite you? Those few that were good were REALLY good. |
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09/09/2003 10:15:50 AM · #2 |
yeah. i kind of expected that. macro is an area where equipment matters more than some other areas.
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09/09/2003 10:40:12 AM · #3 |
There were a lot of great photographs in the insect challenge!
And a lot of high votes. I love to look at all the great macro work.
Hopefully I can compete someday soon.
Cavlus
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09/09/2003 11:10:48 AM · #4 |
Here's a macro insect for you, with a P&S cam.
'does the longhorn think, or are he scared?' ;)

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09/09/2003 11:15:49 AM · #5 |
WOW that longhorn beetle is something and with screens for eyes...
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09/09/2003 11:52:12 AM · #6 |
I enjoy bug pics so I liked this challenge. A few out of focus ones (maybe from too much cropping) but overall I liked the pics. I liked the close-ups but I also liked the well composed ones in which a bug played a big part of the picture.
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09/09/2003 11:53:22 AM · #7 |
One of the nicest I've ever seen. I haven't bought my Canon G3 yet, off the cuff, do you think a person could get a shot like that with the G3?
Thanks |
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09/09/2003 12:28:18 PM · #8 |
I think you can buy an adapter to reverse a 50mm lens for the G3. That's how you'll get such a great close-up. Even a normal macro lens won't get you that close on a DSLR.
Originally posted by JimB: One of the nicest I've ever seen. I haven't bought my Canon G3 yet, off the cuff, do you think a person could get a shot like that with the G3?
Thanks |
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09/09/2003 12:39:54 PM · #9 |
Hmm.. I dont believe that is a real insect. I believe it is a man in a costume :)
:P
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09/09/2003 01:36:30 PM · #10 |
Jim, get yourself a 50mm lens and mount it reversed. My total reversed lens setup cost me about $60 (not counting the adapter, which I already had). That's how I shot my insect entry - could have filled the frame with a 1/2 inch bug, but I cropped for effect. It's running in the mid to high 6 range, and shaping up to be my best finish ever. (What a way to celebrate my first members challenge!) Anyway, the point being, size isn't everything! We A40 guys can compete too.
Message edited by author 2003-09-09 13:38:48. |
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09/09/2003 04:31:59 PM · #11 |
Can someone elaborate a little on this? I've read hints here and there about reverse lens but how does it work? How does focusing work? Can I do this with my Nikon 5700?
I'm intrigued! :)
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09/09/2003 06:48:27 PM · #12 |
Yes, this would be interesting to me too. I have Olympus 4000Z. But what kind of adapter and what kind of lens do I get? Any suggestions will be greatly valued.
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09/09/2003 07:01:09 PM · #13 |
I"d love to know about that for my G3....
Reverse the lens???? |
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09/09/2003 07:59:06 PM · #14 |
If you want to read about reversing an SLR lens and 'stacking' it on your normal lens for high magnification shots, take a look at Mark Plonsky's article on insect macro photography.
Another good source on this subject (and on macro photography in general) is John Shaw's 'Closeups in Nature: The Photographer's Guide to Techniques in the Field' published by Amphoto (ISBN: 0817440526).
Be warned, though, at these magnifications your depth of field is measured in millimetres - focusing ain't easy. But if you have a steady hand, you can get amazing results.
Oh, forgot to mention - this little guy was taken with a 50mm reversed lens:
His head is about 2mm across! You can see from this shot how shallow the DOF is.
Message edited by author 2003-09-09 20:12:52.
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09/09/2003 08:00:26 PM · #15 |
basically, you get an inexpensive manual focus lens - like a nikon, pentax, canon, minolta, whatever. people usually do it with 50mm lenses because they're easy to get and usually dirt cheap, yet optically decent.
then you get a male to make filter reverser that's the size of the filter thread on the front of your camera.
then you might need a step-down or up ring to make the other side match the filter thread size of the reversed lens.
then you take really highly magnified pictures ;-D ..
there are quite a few caveats, like - no autofocus, you have to focus by moving the camera closer and farther. you have to get really really close. the dof is REALLY narrow... a few others...
but i was just playing and held up an old nikon 50mm lens in front of another camera lens, and took a few shots holding it in place by hand.
you can see them HERE. these are just resized with no other post processing.
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09/09/2003 08:58:45 PM · #16 |
THANK YOU!
Here I've learned another thing today,, gad,don't ya just love it.
Off to Ebay.......... |
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09/10/2003 06:48:10 AM · #17 |
Thanks, Scott, but I really need good DoF for some of the small flowers I have in my collection, and from what I've read and seen, the reversed lense isn't going to cut it.
Having read a little from the page linked to the beautiful beetle picture above, I think a small f value and the very long exposure was the key to the fine DoF he got. |
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09/10/2003 03:35:38 PM · #18 |
One more question...
How are you dealing w/ the aperature,, keeping it open?
(do I have the right term for that?) the leaves that open and close when you "shoot"..
I've got visions of duct tape and rubber bands. |
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09/10/2003 04:14:44 PM · #19 |
You just manually set the 50mm lens to maximum aperture (to avoid vignetting) with its aperture ring. You'll want to set your camera's aperture to its smallest (highest-numbered) setting to maximise DOF.
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09/10/2003 04:52:15 PM · #20 |
Ok,, I had the wrong word...
the leaves that open and close when you take a picture, look like an iris... they're part of the lense.. how do you keep THAT open???
I'm sorry to be so obtuse, I don't know all the tech terms for the parts of the camera |
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09/10/2003 05:04:35 PM · #21 |
That's part of your camera body, it seperates the light from the lens from the film or digital sensor.
If it were part of your lens you wouldn't be able to see through it to focus, etc.
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09/10/2003 05:07:34 PM · #22 |
OK, I'm an idiot...
thank you all for your patient responses...
I'll go back to my instamatic now |
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09/10/2003 05:08:51 PM · #23 |
Typically there is an aperture which is the hole that controls how much light that gets in, and is referred to in terms of F stops and a shutter which opens to let the actual light in for a correct amount of time (the shutter speed)
So the blades that move to change the aperture, open and close to change the amount of light that can get it, and the shutter opens to let the actual light through to the sensor.
Does that make sense ? The aperture control and the shutter are two distinct parts of a camera - it isn't usually just one part that opens for the aperture and controls the exposure time.
//electronics.howstuffworks.com/digital-camera8.htm
Message edited by author 2003-09-10 17:10:42. |
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