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04/03/2003 04:22:08 PM · #1 |
| Anybody have any tips/tricks on the best way to do dodging/ burning in Photoshop ? I've seen a few ways using layers that certainly look better than using the dodge/ burn tool but was looking for suggestions. |
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04/03/2003 04:52:18 PM · #2 |
I use two methods and in both I work on a copy of the original layer for comparison purposes and to be safe in case I want to start over. The first method is to simply select a dodge or burn tool, set it at a low exposure value such as 15, select the appropriate Range from Highlight to Shadow, and then select an appropriate sized soft edged brush. Then I make many small and sparate strokes over the desired area so that at any point you can either delete the last stroke or use the History menu to delete many steps. Also in Preferences/Display and Cursors I select Brush Size so that I can see the exact brush size that I have selected. The second method is to create a selection around a specific area using one of the selection tools making sure to feather the edges by several pixels and then lighten or darken the selected area either by adjusting level or from the Hue/Saturation menu. the key to both of these methods is to make small changes at a time so that you don't overdo it. These tips are from Photoshop 7 but should easily translate to many other versions and editors. I hope this helps.
T
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04/03/2003 05:01:14 PM · #3 |
I almost forgot the third method I sometimes use. Create 2 copies of your original layer with the first layer for comparison purposes and for starting over with if you screw up. Ok, now on the second layer either lighten or darken the entire image depending on what you want to accomplish. Now go to the third layer and by using the eraser tool set at the appropriate size and softness simply erase away the areas you want lighter or darker according to the second layer. You can also use a selection tool on the third layer to remover larger areas such as a sky that you want darker. This method is also great for combining two separate image of different exposures provided that they were taken from a tripod at the exact same location.
T
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04/04/2003 11:42:38 AM · #4 |
Tim - thanks for all of these. I've used that third method before to combine differently converted versions (different exposure versions) of Canon RAW files. As you've got the full 10 or 12 bit image, you can really play with the exposure to bring out shadow details and then combine them with the same technique you described - works well and you can do it with a single image rather than bracketted shots!
Another way I found that I really liked was to add a new layer over the image, and fill that layer as 50% grey and switch the blend mode to 'overlay' This will do exactly nothing to the image. Now with the brush tool set to a low opacity (10% or less) and using either black or white ink, paint on the grey layer - this lets you easily dodge and burn areas of the picture (using the 'X' key to switch between the two) and build up areas or easily correct mistakes. Found it a whole lot less error prone than using the dodge/burn tools at all. You can also use the various selection tools and filters on the grey layer to limit the workspace. I found a gaussian blur applied to the final grey layer before merging also smoothed out any rough transitions quite nicely. |
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