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05/25/2005 06:54:57 PM · #1 |
I'm hoping someone can help me - I recently took this shot Downcity and after looking at it realized it would have been greatly helped by some starburst effects on the city lights. I presume some kind of filter produces those -- but am not sure what kind? Can I do something to create this effect in a photo editing software program now that it's done? Thanks.
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05/25/2005 06:59:28 PM · #2 |
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05/25/2005 06:59:48 PM · #3 |
Small apertures help too.
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05/25/2005 07:04:36 PM · #4 |
I am sure there are several ways to acomplish a starburst effect in post processing. In Photoshop CS, you can create a 'brush' that has the starburst shape you desire or select one of the original shapes that meets your requirement, then use that brush to paint in a starburst. Be sure to select the proper color for the brush before applying and adjust the opacity to something less than 100%.
A preferred method of achieving a starburst is to use a CRS filter on your camera when you make the photograph. |
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05/25/2005 07:06:31 PM · #5 |
Originally posted by ElGordo: A preferred method of achieving a starburst is to use a CRS filter on your camera when you make the photograph. |
ElGordo, what does CRS stand for? |
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05/25/2005 07:13:47 PM · #6 |
Honestly don't know what CRS stands for but that is the designation on the one I use made by SOLIGOR. It may mean 'Cross' filter. |
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05/25/2005 07:26:44 PM · #7 |
starbursts are pretty cheesy :) - yet effective! I"m not sure what the smallest aperture on your camera is - but on a dslr - shoot at f22 and you'll get some pretty pronounced starbursts. |
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05/25/2005 07:34:35 PM · #8 |
My camera only goes to f8 and that's pretty useless. Not quite a DSLR here, but I've got a super quick shutter speed that ROCKS - it's almost as quick as film.
Armed with my helpful hints from ElGordo, Plexxoid, and Dpakoh, I've managed to Google the right search terms and found the filter kit I need. Wahoo! "Cross" was the money term.
Thanks to everyone for their hugely helpful responses,
--Laurie |
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05/25/2005 07:57:13 PM · #9 |
Cokin has decent filters and are priced reasonably...
//www.cokin.fr/
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05/25/2005 08:14:22 PM · #10 |
As I recall, most P&S digicams produce star effects on lights when stopped down to their minimum aperture, so F8 would do it for you. |
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05/25/2005 08:50:55 PM · #11 |
This was shot at f8.0 -- read the comments, a few folks mentioned the star filter, but nothing was used (on the lens or in pp).

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05/25/2005 09:40:44 PM · #12 |
Sorry - original info incorrect - removed to avoid confusion.
Message edited by author 2005-05-25 21:44:00. |
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05/25/2005 09:52:59 PM · #13 |
Voila! I guess I only thought that f8 was useless. Maybe I was just using it in too bright of a light before. Anyhow - I've been playing and here's what I got:
No great shakes, but it's pouring rain outside so I can't test in the city tonight. :)
I checked out the Cokin website, and it seems like I would need the P series?
"âP Seriesâ : For larger diameter lenses and focal lengths below 35 mm. Fits short zoom lenses such as 24-50/28-80/35-135 mm and lenses between 28 and 200 mm. Comprises a complete range of COKIN filters, the COKIN âP Seriesâ Filter-holder, âPâ adaptor rings, diameters 48/49/52/55/58/62/67/72/77/82 mm, Hasselblad® B50/B60/B70 and Rollei® VI, as well as numerous dedicated accessories."
My camera is an 8x, which I have no idea how to translate into the above. Someone at Sony told me once every x was 10 feet, so it was closest to the 28-80. I have a 58 mm thread around the lens, which retracts back into the camera.
Does it sound like I am on the right track with the Cokin stuff?
Message edited by author 2005-05-25 21:55:50. |
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05/25/2005 10:07:36 PM · #14 |
With a 58mm threaded lens I would go with the 'P' series. The 'A' series could give you trouble, especially if you decide to stack filters at some point. I think they price about the same...I've ordered my last few from Adorama.com. Have fun!
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05/25/2005 10:39:50 PM · #15 |
I would definately go with f/8 on your camera for a more 'natural' star effect. The f/2.8 used for the photo will inhibit this effect. I also have a 6-cross filter which seems to work fine for small light sources (i.e. street lights at a distance). I think that the star effect can add a lot to a photo, but if it is overdone, it totally ruins it. |
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05/26/2005 01:31:30 AM · #16 |
I used the Dodge brush with a brush shape of a star.
Set dodge opacity to 60% and hardness to 100%
See below for results
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05/26/2005 01:43:05 AM · #17 |
Also aperture set a 8.0:

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05/26/2005 02:35:02 AM · #18 |
This was shot with aperture f/19:
and on this one I used cross screen hoya filter:
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05/26/2005 05:04:34 AM · #19 |
F6.3 ------
;^)
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05/26/2005 09:29:06 AM · #20 |
If you want the effect in camera and not in post processing get a uv or skylight filter and etch it with a razor blade. That way you can create the exact shap of the star you want and will cost less than a ready made filter.
Also clear nail polish in small drops on a uv/skylight filter make excellent softfocus filters. |
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05/26/2005 12:06:28 PM · #21 |
Hoya CS filter
Message edited by author 2005-05-26 12:06:38.
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