Sony F717 ..is this possible? - DPChallenge Forums

Pentax DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF

05/27/2004 04:43:48 AM · #1

tried to take some pics tonight of rugby players under night lights. Used the night shoot mode, did try various other settings but too dark. The exposure was so long that I more or less just got a blur, not the effect I was trying to achieve.

went to another field where there were more lights and stayed further back, slightly better results.....getting very foggy and cold

I need a tripod - tried to get some photos of the lights, fog and trees but too much camera shake.

so....the question ...is it possible to take action pics under night lights with a F717?

sue

faidoi

Pentax K10D

05/27/2004 04:55:21 AM · #2

Try using the flash or better yet put a more powerful add-on flash.

Message edited by author 2004-05-27 04:55:40.

05/27/2004 04:57:30 AM · #3

the light was so lovely, it was a real shame there was so much camera movt. exif 2.0 secs exposure, F2.5

I want to go back and try again

s4nd3r99

Canon EOS-300D Rebel

05/27/2004 05:01:13 AM · #4

Just buy a tripod, they're pretty cheap.

05/27/2004 05:01:29 AM · #5

first pic was taken with the flash. Haven't got add on flash as yet, our local stores don't carry any stock (flash add-ons, lenses etc) so will need to order specific items.....suggestions please

sue

Pentax DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF

05/27/2004 05:05:04 AM · #6

the tripod won't give me the action pic...wanted to get a crisp pic of 3 hefty rugby players mid leap, hands outstretched towards the ball :)

possible under night lights?

faidoi

Pentax K10D

05/27/2004 05:06:39 AM · #7

Originally posted by s4nd3r99:

Just buy a tripod, they're pretty cheap.

Yes, long exposured night shots you definitely have to use a tripod.

Sony E 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS

05/27/2004 05:06:50 AM · #8

5" exposure under night lights with a f717 and a tripod. You can't take a good shot with slower sutters without the tripod with any camera I belive. Flash is nonsense on thesekind of shots since that only works good for like 6 meters or so. Also you can't get action shots on slow shutters and that you can't with any camera. One solution is to increase the iso to 400 or 800 but you will get alot of grain another is better light verry powerful external flash or other light setups. Forget about the onboard flash.

edit: Too bad jmsetzler's "exposure" tutorial is no longer here it would help you alot understanding these things, if anyone has the link for setzler's site give it to her.

Message edited by author 2004-05-27 05:14:35.

willem

Sony Alpha a6700

05/27/2004 05:14:31 AM · #9

A flash will only have a limited reach, especially the built-in flash.

Without flash, in low light circumstances, trying to get sharp action shots, you are trying to do the impossible. Not only with a F717 but with most camera's this is just impossible.

Only camera's which can really turn up the ISO sensitivity without generating too much noise, can provide achieve some better action shots.

Otherwise you are stuck just playing with shutterspeed (which you want short because of the action) and aperture (which you need to open up as far as possible). Here the F717 already can go to F2 which is quite good.

If it is not an action shot, you can use a longer shutterspeed, but then you need to use a tripod to avoid camera shake.

05/27/2004 05:15:20 AM · #10

thanks for that....so if I'd put the camera into full manual/shutter mode with a faster shutter speed I might have achieved the pic I wanted?

Message edited by author 2004-05-27 05:16:54.

05/27/2004 05:17:28 AM · #11

no you would probably got it too dark (uderexposed) or too grainy with higher iso.

05/27/2004 05:19:31 AM · #12

thanks...will go in daylight then.

Sony E 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS

05/27/2004 05:20:14 AM · #13

that's always the best. hold on I'm trying to find you jmsetzlers tutorial. That will help you understand these things alot

Message edited by author 2004-05-27 05:21:08.

willem

Sony Alpha a6700

05/27/2004 05:21:04 AM · #14

Originally posted by suemack:

thanks for that....so if I'd put the camera into full manual/shutter mode with a faster shutter speed I might have achieved the pic I wanted?

A fast shutterspeed (1/250 or faster) and full open aperture (F2) might give you a reasonable shot in a daytime shadow/overcast situation, but will not be enough for nighttime. You just won't get enough light recorded to get a good image.

You want a crisp action shot during nighttime ? There is only one way : get lots of additional light on your subject, get a strong flash and get close. Which I assume would not be possible during the rugby game.

Again, I think you are trying to do the impossible.

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4.0L USM

05/27/2004 05:24:07 AM · #15

ok here it is. Go to //www.setzler.net/ and under "writings" download exposure v1.1. You need adobe acrobat to read it.

KiwiChris

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

05/27/2004 05:29:35 AM · #16

Hi-ho Sue...

I think you're in CHCH by the photos (Hagley park?) For the non-action shots Nuttalls have good tripods for $69.95 brand new... They are not all Alloy like a 'pro' unit, but I've got a couple and they fit the bill for a hobby photographer quite well.

Lawnmower by porch
EXIF: Manual, 6 seconds f/4.5 iso50.
Single bulb is a bare 100W job.
(Must set up a gallery...)

It's got a quick release foot thingy, portrait/landscape flippy thing (I'm sure there are better names for them..) Velbon is the brand name.

Come to think of it, I took this shot with it as well, but it's not a night shot.
Harts Cottage
EXIF: 1/4 sec, F/8.0 iso50 (going for large DOF for detail on back wall)

That's the only one that I've got online using that tripod, appart from my current challenge photo, and I suspect it's frowned apon to link to that before the voting finishes :-).

For the action shots... As per someone elses reply, largest apeture (F/2 for you?) , and set the camera to max iso speed (800 for the 717). If the grain is too much for you, check out neatimage...

Cheers, Chris (Leeston).

Message edited by author 2004-05-27 05:37:07.

05/27/2004 05:30:05 AM · #17

cool thanks frumoaznicul - will head off and have a read :)

I get these ideas, sometimes they work, sometimes..... but just loved the colours and the light with the fog and the trees under the rugby lights

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4.0L USM

05/27/2004 05:34:36 AM · #18

hiya Chris ...

Whangarei, top of Northland :D

nice lawnmower, mine's one of those push-me/sweat models

sue

KiwiChris

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

05/27/2004 05:43:22 AM · #19

'Urro

Arrr, a bit far to drop in on Nuttals.. Looks like you've got a nice park up there though. I've often thought of taking some photos in Hagley park of the nuts playing rugby at night, but it's 60k's from our place, and it's cold :-).

Yeah, the ride on mower is neat, although it's under the porch because it's dead. Mutter mumble, we've got about 1 acre of lawn, so it's handy when it runs, although given that the lawn has stopped growing now for the winter I shouldn't need to fix it in too much of a hurry! :-).

Cheers, Chris.

Jovi

Sony DSC-F717

05/27/2004 09:37:10 AM · #20

No tripod used here. Just a steady hand. Use a higher ISO (you can clean the noise with NeatImage)

Apeture: F2.5
ISO 400
Shutter: 1/20

Edit: No flash used either btw

Message edited by author 2004-05-27 09:39:11.

Jovi

Sony DSC-F717

05/27/2004 09:42:46 AM · #21

Same technique used with this shot.

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G IF-ED

05/27/2004 01:45:07 PM · #22

thanks Jovi - will try that

sue

Damian

Nikon D200

05/27/2004 02:02:11 PM · #23

If you bump up your ISO to 800, you will be able to capture a decent shot, you will however get plenty of noise, but NeatImage will clean all that right up, so no worries.
I usually like to bring my fstop down to 2 or so, and bump up the iso to 800, the images are noisy as hell but you can take care of that with post processing,
good luck.

Kylie

Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ35

05/27/2004 02:29:34 PM · #24

Originally posted by frumoaznicul:

ok here it is. Go to //www.setzler.net/ and under "writings" download exposure v1.1. You need adobe acrobat to read it.

This is a great resource, especially for someone just learning. The biggest problem I have is when someone is referring to a large or small aperture, are they referring the the actual size of the opening or the number of the stop? Is it a uniform practice to always be referring to the f-stop number, which would then always mean the larger is actually the smaller opening?