New to HDR - DPChallenge Forums

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

03/06/2009 11:56:42 AM · #1

I know how to make an HDR image...to a point. I need to know the best software to use. I have CS2. Do I need to buy a separate thing to do the merging and then throw it into PS and finish editing or is there a better way. I did look through the forums but couldn't quite find what I was looking for. I'm also at work so that might have something to do with me not scouring the forums as best as I should've. Thanks for any help.

Clint

jeger

Canon EOS-5D

03/06/2009 11:59:58 AM · #2

You can do it in photoshop, but photomatix seems to be very popular.

03/06/2009 12:50:44 PM · #3

yah, i love HDR and have recently been playing around with it a lot. I use Photomatrix, its definitely worth the $100 or whatever it costs.

here's my most famous HDR shot

03/06/2009 12:59:51 PM · #4

I've been using the freeware version of photomatix. It only has the tone compressor, but if you don't want the extreme HDR look, it works well. Sometimes I'll throw in a little of PSP's clarify on top of it.

One nice thing it can do is to create a false HDR from single RAW file. However, separately adjusted raw conversions seem to often give more control and a different look than just letting photomatix do it..

Here's one I recently did with it. I believe this was 7 RAW adjustments of the same original file.

Message edited by author 2009-03-06 13:00:51.

03/06/2009 03:09:43 PM · #5

you'll have to show me how you did that. ive never really gotten how you do the false HDR thing

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G IF-ED

03/06/2009 03:16:37 PM · #6

Originally posted by JDubsgirl:

you'll have to show me how you did that. ive never really gotten how you do the false HDR thing

The first time, I had done it with 3 separate adjustments, and when the program saw that all three were the same image, it advised me I could just do it from the single RAW file. All I have to do is drag the file into photomatix and it processes it as a false HDR. Maybe I'll buy the full app sometime, but I get good results for now using the freebie and some other careful adjustments.

johst582

Nikon D80

03/06/2009 03:54:30 PM · #7

If you only have one exposure, you can also use Lightroom / Adobe Camera Raw. Some of the controls do very fake-HDR-like things: especially the "fill light", "recovery" and perhaps the "contrast" slider too. Works especially well with B/W images.

Update: Here's an example of a "fake HDR" done entirely in Lightroom. Recovery, fill light, contrast and clarity at their max settings! (and it even worked in colour).

Message edited by author 2009-03-06 16:02:54.

03/06/2009 06:23:04 PM · #8

Originally posted by JDubsgirl:

you'll have to show me how you did that. ive never really gotten how you do the false HDR thing

You can open any *RAW* file in Photomatix and go directly to tone mapping without a merge at all. Works with 16-bit TIFF files too. There's also Topaz Adjust, which does quasi-HDRI and quite a bit more off files as a filter in Photoshop; it works really well, has a lot of cool presets and a hugely adjustable set of parameters for fine-tuning, and sells for about 40 bucks right now if the special sale is still on. You can download a 30-day trial for free, full-featured. Great tool. I no longer use Photomatix for straight tone mapping, just for when I have actual HDRI merges to run.

R.

03/06/2009 11:37:54 PM · #9

its not letting me open directly into tone mapping.

03/06/2009 11:51:32 PM · #10

Originally posted by JDubsgirl:

its not letting me open directly into tone mapping.

What version are you using? File>open>click tone mapping button on V 3+

R.

03/06/2009 11:53:27 PM · #11

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by JDubsgirl:
its not letting me open directly into tone mapping.

What version are you using? File>open>click tone mapping button on V 3+

R.

i dont see a tone mapping button. and im using pro 3

03/06/2009 11:59:29 PM · #12

Here's where it is in the Freebie basic edition if it helps.

03/07/2009 12:02:31 AM · #13

arg, its set up differntly then mine. oh well. someday ill figure it out im sure

Katmystiry

Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM

03/07/2009 12:31:11 AM · #14

JD .. are you sure you are opening a CR2 file in Photomatix? I just tried it on mine, I can't open and tone map a single TIFF or JPG file but I can open a CR2 single file and do the tone mapping from the drop down menu.

03/07/2009 12:35:14 AM · #15

Originally posted by Katmystiry:

hmmm let me go check

03/07/2009 12:40:15 AM · #16

yup i got it now. thanks

03/07/2009 12:41:42 AM · #17

Originally posted by Katmystiry:

You should be able to also do it with a 16-bit TIFF file. I can, anyway. IN other words, I can save any JPG as a TIFF in PS, then do image/mode/16-bit and save, and then I can "tone map" it in Photomatix, though the results are much more limited than working from RAW.

R.

Katmystiry

Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM

03/07/2009 12:48:11 AM · #18

I didn't try with a 16 bit TIFF file .. I will do that! Not that it matters, all my shots are CR2.

03/07/2009 12:49:36 AM · #19

yeh its the 16 TIFF that worked. i tried 32 first and the photo just showed up as black, which i though was odd

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR

03/07/2009 12:54:30 AM · #20

Originally posted by Katmystiry:

I didn't try with a 16 bit TIFF file .. I will do that! Not that it matters, all my shots are CR2.

It only matters if you want to apply the tonemapping "style" to an image you can only access in JPG. For example, if you want to doodle around with someone's posted picture in DPC to give them a hint of what tone mapping might do for them :-) Or if your brother in law sends you a bad JPG original and you are trying to salvage something artsy-fartsy for him... It's not the best way to work, no ma'am :-)

R.

RulerZigzag

Nikon D750

03/07/2009 12:57:33 AM · #21

Not sure one file is enough to make a great HDR. Possible, yes, but from my own experiences with tone-mapping, I've found the best way to keep HDRs looking natural is th minimize the spacing of exposures/shutter speed/ ISO/ etc. With 2 clicks on whatever your jog dial controls, you get the best balance, of course if you want a more surreal effect, do the opposite. You could do photoshopping on one RAW file and artificially separate exposures, get a good effect that way, but not realistic.