Achoo's latest home DIY ?: Hot Water Heaters

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM

02/19/2009 01:08:08 AM · #1

OK, this one is simple. If I can't get it done, I'm calling one of my nurse's husband tomorrow who is a plumber. My hot water heater seems to produce less hot water than it should. You have a good shower's hot water, but not two. The water then becomes lukewarm, but not all the way cold. It was postulated to me, and it makes sense, that the dip tube (cold water intake tube) which sends the cold water to the bottom of the tank when it enters is worn out. I got a new one and tried to replace it. I got the cold water intake valve off (after shutting the water off, of course), but I think I need to take the cold water nipple off to pull the dip tube out. Before I go crazy with a pipe wrench, which way would the nipple unscrew? Clockwise or counterclockwise? My first instinct would be counterclockwise as normal, but then I wasn't sure because something is meant to be screwed onto it and I didn't know if they would reverse thread it for some reason.

We've met the electricians on the site, now who are the plumbers?

MikeJ

Canon EOS-1D Mark II

02/19/2009 01:26:33 AM · #2

Hmm...Screwing? Twisting nipples off?

I think I'll leave this one alone before I get into hot water.

;D

Mike

02/19/2009 01:34:20 AM · #3

Is it gas or electric, with electric sometimes one element is burned out so it only heats about half a tank to full tempreture. If it gas try draining the tank to help clean the sediment out of the bottom of the tank.

02/19/2009 01:38:13 AM · #4

As for which way it unscrews I am not sure but if you twist it hard enough it will either come loose it is the right way or it will break letting you know it was the wrong way.........

02/19/2009 01:44:00 AM · #5

Originally posted by PapaBob:

As for which way it unscrews I am not sure but if you twist it hard enough it will either come loose it is the right way or it will break letting you know it was the wrong way.........

Thanks. ;)

It's a gas water heater.

02/19/2009 01:55:26 AM · #6

Lets see you have had the electrical issue, now plumbing problem, my guess is either a roof leak or furnace failure should be next...... Joys of owning a home!

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM

02/19/2009 02:03:31 AM · #7

Originally posted by PapaBob:

Lets see you have had the electrical issue, now plumbing problem, my guess is either a roof leak or furnace failure should be next...... Joys of owning a home!

Well, Jenn hates the roof because it pops and creaks way more than any previous house we've had. There's a few possible reasons, I think. First, we've never had vaulted ceilings and I hear they creak more and second it's possible the roof is stick framing instead of trusses. I'm hoping as we move into spring the pops will stop. I'll admit some are pretty loud.

cpanaioti

Canon EOS-40D

02/19/2009 09:59:10 AM · #8

Why not consider a continuous hot water system? (Hot water on demand). No tank required. I don't have this but a friend of mine is currently looking into it for her older home.

BMacD

Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II

Olympus 14-54mm f/2.8-3.5 Zuiko Digital Zoom

02/19/2009 10:12:01 AM · #9

Reverse threads usually have a slight "notch" mid point on each corner of the wrench faces.(Male part)

Bruce

Spork99

OM System OM-1

Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro

02/19/2009 11:03:11 AM · #10

Originally posted by cpanaioti:

Why not consider a continuous hot water system? (Hot water on demand). No tank required. I don't have this but a friend of mine is currently looking into it for her older home.

They have smaller tankless systems that will support a bathroom rather than the whole house.

The advantage is that you don't waste energy keeping 40-50 gal of water hot for your long showers.

Alternatively, you could install a bigger water heater. Our house had an ancient 40gal water heater. I replaced it with a more efficient 50gal water heater. More hot water and less energy. If you have a 50gal, I believe they make 80gal water heaters too. You could also install second water heater.

Tamron SP AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di for Canon

02/19/2009 11:07:36 AM · #11

Ya, the heater is on its last legs and I am likely to replace it soon enough. I'm thinking a 50 gal. The problem is, of course, I just bought a house, so I don't have $500 laying around at the moment. Getting even 6 months more out of this heater (which was the original I'm guessing which makes it 11-12 years old) would be great. I've looked over the tankless water heaters and I'm not convinced about them. I've heard too many less than stellar reviews.

I'm gonna go after that dip tube again, but probably not until tomorrow. I read somewhere to use a rag around the pipe to keep from wrecking the threads while you use your pipe wrench. Good idea?

drydoc

Canon EOS-7D

02/19/2009 11:11:42 AM · #12

//www.waterheaterrescue.com/

NstiG8tr

Canon EOS-5D Mark IV

Canon EF 85mm f/1.2L II USM

02/19/2009 11:11:55 AM · #13

If it's as old as the house is, replace it. Why nickle and dime yourself over something that's not that expensive to begin with. If it's not power vented change it.

02/19/2009 11:27:37 AM · #14

Originally posted by NstiG8tr:

If it's as old as the house is, replace it. Why nickle and dime yourself over something that's not that expensive to begin with. If it's not power vented change it.

I just told you. :) I don't have $500 right now. I don't buy a lot on credit...uh...except a house. I do think it's gonna be replaced sooner than later though.

MelonMusketeer

Nikon D7000

Nikon MF 50mm f/1.4

02/19/2009 11:27:38 AM · #15

If you are not sure that it is the dip tube, you may want to try running a straightened out wire coat hanger or some similar piece of wire down the tube to see if it is broken off. You can feel if it is snapped off.
Instead of pulling out the nipple, have you thought of getting a smaller diameter copper tube, flare the end, and feed it down through the existing tube. You may be able to drill out the end of the existing dip tube to make the hole larger. If you do try to unscrew the nipple, be sure to put a bolt or something about the right diameter inside the nipple so that you don't crush it with the wrench.
You may also want to check to see if the thermostat is working right.
I have never seen a water heater with left hand threads on any of the fittings. Come to think of it, I have never seen a left hand pipe thread anywhere. There are some types of fittings that have left hand threads, but they are not pipe threads. Most domestic water heaters have 3/4" female pipe threads in the inlet and outlets.
Good luck with this new adventure. Keep us posted.
As a last resort, you may want to cap the top fitting, and put a tee where the drain valve is located, and feed the cold water in at that point. The top inlet fitting is there for convenience in making the plumbing connections anyway.
ETA,
Most water heater drain valves have garden hose thread, so you may be able to do a quick and dirty test rig by putting a cap on the top feed fitting. Then connect to the drain valve with a washing machine hose and use a 3/4 pipe X water hose fitting at the other end.

Message edited by author 2009-02-19 11:34:47.

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6

02/19/2009 11:30:17 AM · #16

Originally posted by MelonMusketeer:

Holy cow! That is freaking awesome! :) I'll definitely be doing this to make sure it's the tube.

Notroubles

Canon EOS-350D Rebel XT

02/19/2009 11:55:22 AM · #17

Musketeer is correct about the right hand threads. Turn the pipe Counterclockwise to remove. (Righty tighty, lefty loosey). While you have it open and drained, don't forget to check the level of sediment in the bottom. It may respond well to being rinsed.

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6

02/19/2009 12:00:32 PM · #18

Originally posted by Notroubles:

What's the best way to check the level of sediment? Just look down the hole where the nipple was?

Notroubles

Canon EOS-350D Rebel XT

02/19/2009 12:03:17 PM · #19

If it is a 40 gal. you can get a small curtain rod that will go in the 3/4 inch hole and be long enough to reach the bottom. Think of it as a dip stick.

Spork99

OM System OM-1

Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro

02/19/2009 12:07:05 PM · #20

Originally posted by DrAchoo:

Originally posted by Notroubles:
Musketeer is correct about the right hand threads. Turn the pipe Counterclockwise to remove. (Righty tighty, lefty loosey). While you have it open and drained, don't forget to check the level of sediment in the bottom. It may respond well to being rinsed.

What's the best way to check the level of sediment? Just look down the hole where the nipple was?

If you drain the tank with the spigot on the side (the garden hose attactment), the sediment will drain out there.

You'll be able to see it as it drains. You can also open the fill valve after it's drained to help flush it out.

If your water doesn't have a lot of iron in it and the sediment has a rusty color to it, the tank itself may be corroding, in which case, you may want to expedite replacing it for obvious reasons.

Notroubles

Canon EOS-350D Rebel XT

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6

02/19/2009 12:12:28 PM · #21

I am not sure if it happens anywhere else, but in Alabama, the power company will give you a new electric water heater if you are changing from gas. Just a thought in case it goes badly with your inspection.

soup

Canon EOS-30D

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4.0L USM

02/19/2009 12:31:24 PM · #22

rather than replace our failing hot water heater our/myself ( we have quite hard water - so sediment is an issue ) - we chose to rent one. probably more pricey in the long run... but they installed it N/C and they have to remove it and replace if it fails - or repair it. basically that's what the rental fee is about. no different than renting the house you are in - but the landlord would have the expense of maintaining the place and it's appliances.

so rather than a big upfront expense and waste of energy - we got a new one right off and pay a small fee monthly for the rental.

Message edited by author 2009-02-19 12:31:49.

soup

Canon EOS-30D

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4.0L USM

02/19/2009 12:35:50 PM · #23

if you are on a well - you might also want to take a close look at the pressure holding tank. corrosion inside there could be feeding garbage to the hot water heater, and if that's the case could be a flood/injury hazard - on top of causing issues with a new hot water heater.

Originally posted by Spazmo99:

If your water doesn't have a lot of iron in it and the sediment has a rusty color to it, the tank itself may be corroding, in which case, you may want to expedite replacing it for obvious reasons.

02/19/2009 12:36:59 PM · #24

Originally posted by Spazmo99:

Originally posted by DrAchoo:

Originally posted by Notroubles:
Musketeer is correct about the right hand threads. Turn the pipe Counterclockwise to remove. (Righty tighty, lefty loosey). While you have it open and drained, don't forget to check the level of sediment in the bottom. It may respond well to being rinsed.

What's the best way to check the level of sediment? Just look down the hole where the nipple was?

If you drain the tank with the spigot on the side (the garden hose attactment), the sediment will drain out there.

You'll be able to see it as it drains. You can also open the fill valve after it's drained to help flush it out.

If your water doesn't have a lot of iron in it and the sediment has a rusty color to it, the tank itself may be corroding, in which case, you may want to expedite replacing it for obvious reasons.

You can keep the water on so the pressure helps rinse the sediment but keep in mind if the unit is starting to rust you may only make the tank more likely to leak. The sediment is not likely to be a major cause of the problem you described but tends to make units less efficient. Keep in mind when water heaters start to rust it is only a matter of time before they completely fail, if the unit is in an area where leakage will cause damage to the interior or structure then it may be cheaper to go ahead and change it before it does any damage.