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01/01/2009 10:36:05 AM · #1 |
When I put my Nikon AF-S Micro-Nikkor 60mm f/2.8G EDon my D700 it was wonderful (The first picture I took was of my wife's Christmas present.) Later that night I switched to my Tokina AF 12-24mm f/4.0 AT-X 124AF Pro DX which had some serious vignetting going on especially with the cross-filter I had attached to it. STILL, it gave a nice look to the picture regardless and it won't bother me to crop the image myself. Then I put on the Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G IF-ED and what I see in the frame gets cropped to the DX size. Oh well...it's time to move up.
Here's my stupid question that I probably should already know...with the exception of the fact that there is DX labeled on the lens, how do I tell if it's not a DX lens and something that is full-frame. My instincs tell me, anything that doesn't say DX on it. However, the Tokina (Not being a Nikkor) didn't wasn't cropped. So, I still wonder... |
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01/01/2009 10:46:02 AM · #2 |
Here is my guess(yes it is a guess).
Nikon lens that are DX communicate with the camera body and tell it its a crop lens, so it automatically tells the camera to go to DX mode. The third party lens likely do not have this ability, which is the reason you got the heavy vignette. Canon uses the EF-s mount to accomplish this instead of software.
So how do you tell? You will have to watch for things like digitally optimized, Designed for digital cameras and wording such as that.
Matt
Message edited by author 2009-01-01 10:46:33.
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01/01/2009 12:02:32 PM · #3 |
| OK...so can I assume that DX is the wording used for lenses that are crop lenses. Everything else is full frame? |
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01/01/2009 12:17:10 PM · #4 |
Cheesy Wiki form
Matt
Edit to add even cheesier KR link
Message edited by author 2009-01-01 12:18:54.
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01/01/2009 12:47:00 PM · #5 |
Tamron: Stay away from Di-II, Di is okay.
Sigma: Stay away from DC
Tokina: Same as Nikon, DX are for APS-C sized sensors. |
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