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06/20/2002 12:28:54 PM · #1 |
As I continue my voting this week, I have noticed a few common issues on some photographs this week.
When photographing a subject or scene where there are sharply different levels of light present, sometimes the camera will not meter the exposure properly. I know that all cameras do not have the capability of spot metering and center weighted metering.
It is a useful thing to know how your camera is setting the exposure if possible. I have seen a few photos this week where some area of the photo is overexposed due to the camera metering on a darker portion of the scene. In this type of situation, I suppose that spot metering on a grey card would be appropriate, but, if you don't have spot metering capabilities, how would you go about compensating for this? I guess that it would be best to take what the camera gives you and try to adjust it out with levels after the shot?
Any ideas on this?
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06/20/2002 12:47:12 PM · #2 |
Originally posted by jmsetzler:
As I continue my voting this week, I have noticed a few common issues on some photographs this week.
When photographing a subject or scene where there are sharply different levels of light present, sometimes the camera will not meter the exposure properly. I know that all cameras do not have the capability of spot metering and center weighted metering.
It is a useful thing to know how your camera is setting the exposure if possible. I have seen a few photos this week where some area of the photo is overexposed due to the camera metering on a darker portion of the scene. In this type of situation, I suppose that spot metering on a grey card would be appropriate, but, if you don't have spot metering capabilities, how would you go about compensating for this? I guess that it would be best to take what the camera gives you and try to adjust it out with levels after the shot?
Any ideas on this?
I shot all my photos for this weeks challenge in full manual mode. I adjusted the shutter and aperture myself, as I took a lot of shots in dark climates. Unfortunately, I didn't have a tripod with me on my outing, so it was tough to get some of the shots. I ended up propping my camera on rocks a few times. heh.
I know a lot of cameras don't have a fully manual option, but they do it's definitely best to use it for these types of shots.
- mike
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06/20/2002 01:08:02 PM · #3 |
| Hmm, well... One of my problems here is that I like some of the photos that have overexposed areas, including my own :). Again, as with my photo for the "People" challenge, without really considering that voters might not respond well to it, I adjusted the levels to really wash out that part of my photo, because I liked the way the textures around the edges of it were brought out and it provided some interest to the composition. Am I wrong? Is overexposure always considered a flaw? |
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06/20/2002 01:10:39 PM · #4 |
Overexposure is not always a flaw... I do it quite frequently in certain contexts... especially in night time long exposure shots..
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06/20/2002 01:14:35 PM · #5 |
| Lisae, you've been here long enough to know that only photos with perfect exposure and razor-sharp focus throughout the image are acceptable. ;-) |
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06/20/2002 02:14:45 PM · #6 |
To me, overexposure results in lack of detail. If that is your objective, then it should be ok. Personally, I have seen very few overexposures that have appealed to me, but used properly can be effective.
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06/20/2002 02:31:51 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by lisae:
Hmm, well... One of my problems here is that I like some of the photos that have overexposed areas, including my own :). Again, as with my photo for the "People" challenge, without really considering that voters might not respond well to it, I adjusted the levels to really wash out that part of my photo, because I liked the way the textures around the edges of it were brought out and it provided some interest to the composition. Am I wrong? Is overexposure always considered a flaw?
I think that if your objective is to create a piece of artwork, anything goes. However, if you objective is to do well in a photography contest, there's certain things that a lot of people just won't understand.
- mike
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06/20/2002 02:43:29 PM · #8 |
To get back to the subject a little, I used full manual mode on my G2 also, Like mci mentioned in his first post. I tried with my D1, but I was wasting too many pixels bracketing. With the G2, I could adjust and see the result on the LCD so I could set the image the exact way I wanted to in real time in camera.
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06/21/2002 05:27:55 AM · #9 |
Originally posted by sheyingshi88:
To get back to the subject a little, I used full manual mode on my G2 also, Like mci mentioned in his first post. I tried with my D1, but I was wasting too many pixels bracketing. With the G2, I could adjust and see the result on the LCD so I could set the image the exact way I wanted to in real time in camera.
I don't quite follow - can't you check the picture immediately on the D1 screen?
I used full manual on my D1 - I usually do when things aren't moving too much. If I have the time then I'll often use a grey card though I don't always use spot metering with this - matrix is fine as long as the card fills the frame. You don't even need manual exposure for this, as long as your camera has exposure lock. Set up the shot, put a gray card in the same light as the subject, meter, lock the exposure, remove the card and go. If you're outside then green grass makes an ideal substitute for a grey card - depsite the different colour it has almost exactly the same reflectance.
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06/21/2002 06:46:30 AM · #10 |
I'm not sure a grey card would do the trick in a photo where there are extreme variations in lighting... I actually think the matrix metering would probalby handle this a little better.
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06/21/2002 08:38:00 AM · #11 |
thanks for the tip about green grass.
one thing that's nice about full manual on the e-10 is that if you use the lcd, you can actually see the results of your final exposure choice on the preview LCD *before* shooting. You can actually see the picture get brighter in the LCD as you open the aperature, lengthen the shutter speed, etc. This is a great feature : )..
[/i]
I don't quite follow - can't you check the picture immediately on the D1 screen?
I used full manual on my D1 - I usually do when things aren't moving too much. If I have the time then I'll often use a grey card though I don't always use spot metering with this - matrix is fine as long as the card fills the frame. You don't even need manual exposure for this, as long as your camera has exposure lock. Set up the shot, put a gray card in the same light as the subject, meter, lock the exposure, remove the card and go. If you're outside then green grass makes an ideal substitute for a grey card - depsite the different colour it has almost exactly the same reflectance.
[/i]
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06/21/2002 08:49:50 AM · #12 |
Originally posted by magnetic9999:
thanks for the tip about green grass.
one thing that's nice about full manual on the e-10 is that if you use the lcd, you can actually see the results of your final exposure choice on the preview LCD *before* shooting. You can actually see the picture get brighter in the LCD as you open the aperature, lengthen the shutter speed, etc. This is a great feature : )..
Yes that sounds really cool. I suppose if the screen's good enough, you could use this as a DOF preview.
I can see how this would work for the aperture (just like an SLR's mechanical DOF preview) - wonder how they do it for changes in shutter speed?
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06/21/2002 08:58:35 AM · #13 |
I just don't think reflective metering is going to be easy to do with extreme lighting conditions.
You will always be making some compromise.
I work a lot..and I mean..almost every photo with extreme light. So I am breaking down and buying a light meter. That way I can accurately measure the dark and light areas and adjust accordingly.
I am with lisae though. I like overexposure a lot especially harsh backlighting. When I see a photo that contains terrific texture, detail and an element of purposeful overexposure I like it.
Many times I see extreme light conditions leveled out in photos so much it looks flat or like a Sears portrait picture. |
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06/21/2002 09:05:55 AM · #14 |
you know, that's a really good question! it must be calculated somehow. . .
the real question then becomes, why do they even need an actual shutter, and i should be able to get the equivalent exposure of say, a 4 second shutter, without having to actually click. no camera shake!
Originally posted by Jonniboy:
Originally posted by magnetic9999:
[i]I can see how this would work for the aperture (just like an SLR's mechanical DOF preview) - wonder how they do it for changes in shutter speed?
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06/21/2002 09:11:42 AM · #15 |
Originally posted by magnetic9999:
the real question then becomes, why do they even need an actual shutter,
Same reason Sony cameras play a little sound clip of a shutter and motor drive when you press the button :)
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06/21/2002 09:18:54 AM · #16 |
Originally posted by magnetic9999:
you know, that's a really good question! it must be calculated somehow. . .
the real question then becomes, why do they even need an actual shutter, and i should be able to get the equivalent exposure of say, a 4 second shutter, without having to actually click. no camera shake!
My G2 LCD was pretty black when I was taking 4 sec. exposures..I had to shine a flashlight to make sure I got the subject in the frame. I dunno though. With my Fuji, I can be looking at the LCD and it's pretty dark, then the picture comes out a lot lighter cause of the longer shutter speed. But I don't know if that's just cause the low-end ones don't have that feature. |
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06/21/2002 09:39:56 AM · #17 |
yeah, this is the first camera i've ever used that can simulate the brightening effect of a long shutter in the live preview. must be some calculated increased sensitivity thing - who knows, but's it's a handy feature.
also works as a pretty darn cool night vision scope : )
Originally posted by Kimbly:
Originally posted by magnetic9999:
[i]you know, that's a really good question! it must be calculated somehow. . .
the real question then becomes, why do they even need an actual shutter, and i should be able to get the equivalent exposure of say, a 4 second shutter, without having to actually click. no camera shake!
My G2 LCD was pretty black when I was taking 4 sec. exposures..I had to shine a flashlight to make sure I got the subject in the frame. I dunno though. With my Fuji, I can be looking at the LCD and it's pretty dark, then the picture comes out a lot lighter cause of the longer shutter speed. But I don't know if that's just cause the low-end ones don't have that feature.[/i]
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06/21/2002 06:46:37 PM · #18 |
Jonniboy!! Thank you. Unwittingly, you pointed me at the solution to an annoying camera noise issue I have been mad at.
By stating that the Film Camera noises were added by Sony got me to thinking....If they can add the noises, I should be able to stop them and did! Now, I can take much more candid shots of people as they won't know that I am focusing on them. If only I were co-ordinated enough to creep quietly, it might help with my nature shots, too!
You were being helpful and didn't even know it.
Originally posted by Jonniboy:
Originally posted by magnetic9999:
[i]the real question then becomes, why do they even need an actual shutter,
Same reason Sony cameras play a little sound clip of a shutter and motor drive when you press the button :)
[/i]
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06/21/2002 09:07:03 PM · #19 |
Originally posted by Jonniboy:
Originally posted by sheyingshi88:
[i]To get back to the subject a little, I used full manual mode on my G2 also, Like mci mentioned in his first post. I tried with my D1, but I was wasting too many pixels bracketing. With the G2, I could adjust and see the result on the LCD so I could set the image the exact way I wanted to in real time in camera.
I don't quite follow - can't you check the picture immediately on the D1 screen?
I used full manual on my D1 - I usually do when things aren't moving too much. If I have the time then I'll often use a grey card though I don't always use spot metering with this - matrix is fine as long as the card fills the frame. You don't even need manual exposure for this, as long as your camera has exposure lock. Set up the shot, put a gray card in the same light as the subject, meter, lock the exposure, remove the card and go. If you're outside then green grass makes an ideal substitute for a grey card - depsite the different colour it has almost exactly the same reflectance.
[/i]
Yeah, I can do all that, and I sometimes do, but with this challange I'm getting extreem contrast variation. I've had moderate results spot metering on a high and a low value and figuring out which zones I wanted to include, but the D1 doesn't have live preview, and it seems to take forever to open a .NEF file in playback so I can check. With my G2 I can see the results of manual exposure adjustment in real time so I can include the most relivant zones without a meter.
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