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01/18/2004 12:39:54 AM · #1 |
Greetings...
I purchased a mat cutter this weekend and I'm excited about getting started. I'm looking for some other people with mat cutting experience who would be willing to share some general advice, tips, and tricks of the craft.
First of all, I have created a few 'templates' to cover the first few cutting projects I want to do. I made them into PDF files to share. I would also love to see any project templates that anyone else would be willing to share...
Project 1 - 14k PDF
Project 2 - 14k PDF
Project 3 - 14k PDF
I also have a couple immediate questions about assembling mats. I have done it a few ways with pre-cut mats but I'm not sure if I'm doing it properly.
1. How do you affix your 'print' to the mat or to the backing? Is it better to 'mount' it to the backing or the front matting? How do you go about fastening the 'print' to the backing or the mat?
2. Do you use foamcore backing or just cardboard?
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01/18/2004 01:10:22 AM · #2 |
First thing you need to decide is whether or not you are going to be doing conservation/archival/museum quality matting and mounting. If your prints are printed with archival quality paper and inks, meant to last a long time, then I would make sure you have archival quality mats and foam board as well.
If youâre not doing archival quality mounting, then I would use artists tape to secure the photos to the foam board. Either one in each corner, or one on each side. Before you actually tape it in place, lay the photo on the foam board and then lay the mat(s) over it to make sure that everything fits well. There should be between 1/8â and ¼â overlap on all sides so that there is a good fit.
If you are doing archival mounting/matting, then make sure you get archival quality matting and foam board. Anything that is archival quality is acid free. They cost more, but they will prevent disintegration of the photo paper and inks used in the printing. To 'mount' the photo I would lay it down on the foam board and again, make sure there is a 1/8â to ¼â overlap on all sides. When you are satisfied with the fit and you go to pick up the matting off of the photo, make sure you donât move the photoâ¦hold it in place. Then, you can use archival quality mounting tape, or flanges to attach the 'print' to the foam board. I would attach each flange to the middle of each side and then, once itâs in place, then you can ATG tape the matting to the foam board, centering the matting so there itâs equal on all sides. I recommend the flanges, but they are harder to attach. These items are also archival/acid free as well, and allow for easier dismounting of the art work in the future, should you, or whoever owns the 'print' decides to get a different matting.
Hopes this helps.
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01/18/2004 01:47:50 AM · #3 |
I sell my prints with mats at art shows, and I tape the "top edge of the photo only" to the back of the mat itself. If you affix all edges to the mat or backing, then this does not allow for shrinkage/expansion of the photo from environmental causes.
1. Lay the photo face up on the table in front of you.
2. Affix several pieces of tape across the top edge of the photo.
3. Lay the mat over top, ensuring that all edges of the printed portion are beneath the mat window.
I discovered, after assembling hundreds of photos with mats into packages with foam core backing, that if a customer chooses to purchase a stock frame (from somewhere like Walmart), the foam backing may not fit inside the frame. It depends on the thickness of the foam backing you use, though. Foam backing is available in different thicknesses.
This web site provides some tips:
//www.matshop.ca/wmfframes/Presenting.html
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01/18/2004 02:42:35 AM · #4 |
[quote=mcrael]I sell my prints with mats at art shows, and I tape the "top edge of the photo only"quote]
Myself,(and stated by many books), only affix the photo at the top 2 corners with archival tape. I like to use the hinge method. SOmetimes using a double sided archival tape, too, works real well.
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01/18/2004 06:27:49 PM · #5 |
Originally posted by dacrazyrn:
[quote=mcrael]I sell my prints with mats at art shows, and I tape the "top edge of the photo only"quote]
Myself,(and stated by many books), only affix the photo at the top 2 corners with archival tape. I like to use the hinge method. SOmetimes using a double sided archival tape, too, works real well. |
I have tried this before and i suppose that the heat/humidity caused my 'print' to wrinkle a bit. Have u had this problem? Do you fasten the front mat to the backing?
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01/18/2004 06:43:16 PM · #6 |
This is what the frame shop does that I deal with to get my matting and such. They spray 'mount' the photo to a piece of board. Then they use the extra super sticky 2 sided tape to affix that board the the mat board. I've done quite a bit of mat cutting, but not too much fixing it to the mats forever. I have used their method and it worked fine for me. MOst of my matting needs though are temporary, like for the local camera club competitions. For that stuff, a good quality masking tape works great so I can reuse the mats if need be.
anyway, that's my experience with it. Good Luck John
Bob
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01/18/2004 06:55:51 PM · #7 |
John,
Thanks so much for sharing your templates. I don't own a mat cutter yet, but this is something I'm seriously considering. I'm sure your templates will come in handy when I eventually get around to buying a mat cutter. Thanks again!
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01/18/2004 07:19:23 PM · #8 |
Originally posted by dacrazyrn:
[quote=mcrael]I sell my prints with mats at art shows, and I tape the "top edge of the photo only"quote]
Myself,(and stated by many books), only affix the photo at the top 2 corners with archival tape. I like to use the hinge method. SOmetimes using a double sided archival tape, too, works real well.
The first time I matted and framed a set of prints, I did tape all edges of the 'print' to the back of the mat - and YES - my 'print' did wrinkle from the heat/humidity. I haven't had a problem since I started taping only the top edge.
If your backing will fit inside the frame - I see no harm myself in taping the backing to the mat as well, but I don't think it's necessary.
Message edited by author 2004-01-18 19:20:46.
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01/18/2004 07:52:40 PM · #9 |
with the matte cutter i own, the markings on the back of the matte board that you make are only used to know when you hit the adjoining edge. they are not the lines that you actually cut. the matte cutting straight edge is a cutting guide, the blade handle adds the needed overlap to the cut. the lines, again, are just to show you where to STOP cutting.
could be different depending on the cutter you own...
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01/18/2004 08:23:41 PM · #10 |
| Great topic thank you all very much for the info.. this is my next step and I've been reading everything I can on the subject. |
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01/18/2004 09:09:08 PM · #11 |
This forum has alot in it also Other forum
the book I bought and use (goes over matting and framing both) is linked here. Tons of great info
Or just go here Home Book of Picture Framing
Message edited by author 2004-01-18 21:11:08.
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01/19/2004 06:35:16 PM · #12 |
to add to my above post...
the brand cutter i have is a leichtung, not sure of the model, its older...
it's better to overcut slightly than under cut.
you can use fine fine grain sand paper, or a fine emery board to smooth out rough cuts.
be sure to keep straight edges on outside cuts, so the inside cuts are square, and you can use the scrap board w/o worrying about straigh tedges a month later. or best to use factory edges against the guide.
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