Can you switch lenses during a long exposure?

Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 Di II LD Aspherical (IF) for Nikon

07/10/2007 12:20:19 PM · #1

I'm trying to figure out how to get different subjects into a frame in one exposure. One way would include switching lenses during either a long exposure or during a bulb shot (where I can manually close the shutter whenever I want).

Does disconnecting the lens automatically close the shutter? I realize the sensor would be exposed, but I'd cover it quickly with another lens.

I also realize I couldn't aim using the viewfinder, so it'd be a bit of hit or miss on composition.

LeeD

Canon EOS-30D

Tamron SP AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di for Canon

07/10/2007 12:23:24 PM · #2

I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish, but you may want to consider some sort of zoom lens. Open shutter/expose... cover lens... zoom.... uncover lens/expose... close shutter... done!

Message edited by author 2007-07-10 12:23:54.

Chiqui

Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II

Olympus 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro

07/10/2007 12:24:00 PM · #3

I have never heard of anyone doing or even thinking about doing this before but my guess would be no.

June

Bear_Music

Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra

Sony 24-70mm F4 Vario-Tessar T* FE OSS

07/10/2007 12:25:33 PM · #4

I believe you CAN remove a lens during exposure, but you're gonna totally blow the exposure unless you do it in pitch darkness...

R.

griz210

Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II

07/10/2007 12:26:54 PM · #5

you will also have to refocus after changeing lenses

EBJones

Nikon D200

Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II

07/10/2007 12:26:58 PM · #6

I'm thinking that it would have to be a multiple exposure. D200 has this feature if I'm not mistaken. . . (D80 does.)

Bugzeye

Fisher Price Kid-Tough Digital

07/10/2007 12:28:03 PM · #7

The best way to find out is try it. I think the worst that can happen is you will get an error message and have to turn the camera off to reset.

Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 Di II LD Aspherical (IF) for Nikon

07/10/2007 12:31:52 PM · #8

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

I believe you CAN remove a lens during exposure, but you're gonna totally blow the exposure unless you do it in pitch darkness...

R.

Right, I assumed that. :) This would be one way to get this shot without compositing:

Another way is to go far enough back that the relative sizes changed to the right ratio, but I'm not sure I can get that far back. :)

And yeah, my new baby (70-200 2.8 VR) can probably do that shot, so I was more just interested in general.

RainMotorsports

Nikon D60

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR

07/10/2007 12:38:34 PM · #9

Originally posted by levyj413:

Does disconnecting the lens automatically close the shutter?

Of course grabbing the camera Manual 30 second shot. Remove the lens see what happens. They recommend on Canon's to not remove the lens while the camera is on... done it plenty of times no problems.

DrAchoo

Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX5

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

07/10/2007 12:44:59 PM · #10

The hardest thing about your shot there Jeffrey is the exposure, not changing focal length and focusing (on a zoom).

If you want a shot like that to be DPC legal then you need to build yourself a slot card. I used one on this shot and it worked pretty well.

Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 Di II LD Aspherical (IF) for Nikon

07/10/2007 01:17:07 PM · #11

No, Jason, I also need to zoom. Here's the real size of the moon in that shot, which was actually a challenge entry:

But what's a slot card? Do you move it, or is it just a very small hole that essentially acts like a small aperture?

DrAchoo

Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX5

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

07/10/2007 01:21:49 PM · #12

No I understand you need to zoom, I'm just thinking that isn't going to be the tough part of getting that shot. (of course you need the zoom that can take both parts of the shot...)

The problem is the exposure for the capital might be something like 1" while the moon is something like 1/50th. Those are just examples, but when you have a large difference in exposure it tends to make one of them short which makes it hard to expose properly by removing a blocking card and replacing it. (again, I'm thinking totally within DPC rules here, otherwise just do the composite). The slot card is a rectangular piece of black matboard with a slot cut in the middle (maybe 1/2" high and 8" wide). You expose the shot by moving the slot over the lens at a fast speed. It allows you to get exposures that are in fractions of a second rather than in seconds. On the fire shot I think I was probably exposing closer to 1/50th or 1/100th or a second. I could never do that without the slot.

07/10/2007 01:31:23 PM · #13

Its an interesting challenge to do in one shot that for sure, I think trying it would take a lot of planning. Unless its for a challenge you could easily do this one in camera with D200. Which I am not sure is the point or not. But since the sky is black you could overlay a shot of the moon and it would come in nice and crisp.

If you wanted to do a single shot double exposure I figure you would have to do it something like this.
1. figure out the exposure of the building
2.figure out the exposure and focus distance of the moon
3. grab the focus of the building then click the focus to manual,and set to bulb or 30 s exposure
4. Count off the exposure of the building and cover the lens
5. Refocus to the moon and zoom accordingly and count off the moon exposure.
I haven't tried this with a zoom but I am pretty sure it would need to be pretty exact.
Well thats what I would do if didn't do the overlay in camera :)

07/10/2007 01:35:00 PM · #14

Originally posted by DrAchoo:

The problem is the exposure for the capital might be something like 1" while the moon is something like 1/50th.

If you set the F/stop on the moon so the exposure is 1 sec, then you could use that aperture and doing a long exposure on the building, say 25 sec. Which doesn't give you alot of time to switch around unless you have a release remote so you can use bulb. Thats the workaround I see.

Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 Di II LD Aspherical (IF) for Nikon

07/10/2007 01:37:38 PM · #15

Thanks, Jason and Joe. I get it, Jason - it's just like the way a real shutter works, with one curtain following right behind the other.

Joe, I know the D200 can do in-camera multiples, but it's easier to just do it in PS, like I did with the shot I posted earlier. As for getting timing right, well, I have a little experience with that:

I can't even imagine a circumstance where I'd use in-camera multiple exposure instead of compositing in PS. DPC was about all I could think of, but that's no longer allowed (and I agree that it shouldn't be, FWIW).

Oh, and I do have a remote. Bought it at Adorama.

Message edited by author 2007-07-10 13:39:32.

RainMotorsports

Nikon D60

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR

07/10/2007 01:39:16 PM · #16

Originally posted by jdannels:

Originally posted by DrAchoo:

The problem is the exposure for the capital might be something like 1" while the moon is something like 1/50th.

If you set the F/stop on the moon so the exposure is 1 sec, then you could use that aperture and doing a long exposure on the building, say 25 sec. Which doesn't give you alot of time to switch around unless you have a release remote so you can use bulb. Thats the workaround I see.

Id like to see the Aperture for that LMAO. Even at F/22 id be shooting 1/180-1/320.

Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 Di II LD Aspherical (IF) for Nikon

07/10/2007 01:41:09 PM · #17

Originally posted by RainMotorsports:

Id like to see the Aperture for that LMAO. Even at F/22 id be shooting 1/180-1/320.

Well, not quite that small an aperture at that fast a shutter, but yeah, the moon's bright. Here's one at 1/160 and F5/6:

07/10/2007 01:43:33 PM · #18

Originally posted by levyj413:

Joe, I know the D200 can do in-camera multiples, but it's easier to just do it in PS, like I did with the shot I posted earlier.

Yeah much easier, I thought you were trying to to figure it out for a challenge entry, and I was trying to think how I would do it. :)

Originally posted by levyj413:

I can't even imagine a circumstance where I'd use in-camera multiple exposure instead of compositing in PS.

Well, its kinda fun to just play with it in the camera. :)

And congrats on that new frickin lens!!

07/10/2007 01:45:25 PM · #19

Originally posted by RainMotorsports:

Id like to see the Aperture for that LMAO. Even at F/22 id be shooting 1/180-1/320.

I'll have to give it a shot, I hadn't worked out the specifics, but if you through on a Circular polarizer and ND filters in front, I think you could get there in no time :)

Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 Di II LD Aspherical (IF) for Nikon

07/10/2007 01:48:03 PM · #20

Originally posted by jdannels:

Originally posted by levyj413:

Joe, I know the D200 can do in-camera multiples, but it's easier to just do it in PS, like I did with the shot I posted earlier.

Yeah much easier, I thought you were trying to to figure it out for a challenge entry, and I was trying to think how I would do it. :)

Careful - it's no longer legal outside of expert.

As for my new lens ... WOW. NOW I know, firsthand, what people mean when they talk about beautiful glass. :) I've never seen pictures before that are sharp almost all the way up to 100% crop. Put that baby on the 10mp D200, and I can't believe how much I can crop down and still have it look good, at least on screen.

Message edited by author 2007-07-10 13:49:32.

Spork99

OM System OM-1

Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro

07/10/2007 02:07:04 PM · #21

What you want to do is typically called "in-camera masking".

You need to build/buy/beg/borrow a matte box that has two slides on it.

Read here for more details.