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03/05/2007 10:04:12 AM · #1 |
Around August im looking at picking up a K10D and through the rest of the year picking up another lense a stand a couple of flash units. A backdrop support and what not.
Im looking into trying potrait photography and am going to see if i cant hold something with a local church i used to be active in to get the much needed practice.
Main questions is to If i should run one flash light or two. I was looking at the Alienbees 400's and 800's. I saw that sometimes people just run one and a reflector on the side. Is it better to run two or is it over powering. If im only gonna run one i suppose its wise to pop the extra onthe 800. But if im running two is running two 400's enough?
Next is how big of a Umbrella would be ideal.
Next is a hard one the lense whats ideal. I was told by option if im looking todo strictly this which im not sure as of yet get the 77mm prime and dont look back. I understand to a point why this lense is perfect for this use. But being a limited its also a 900 lense.
Is there anything else otu there for 250-300 dollars. Does a 50 work good for this or a 100. Im assuing that 40 1.4 is considered slightly wide for portait use but not for most other shooting.
Is there any hope to fudge around with the kit lense? Until i know i want to get a dedicated portrait lense. |
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03/05/2007 10:56:38 AM · #2 |
For a single person one light and a reflector would be fine, but if you want to shoot several people you almost definitely need more than one flash/strobe. People tend to block each other and one light can only travel so far, for a larger group you might need 3 or 4 lights to get even light on everyone. |
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03/05/2007 10:59:28 AM · #3 |
Makes me want to look at a small studio around here think i can sneek in lol. Okay so definatly two lamps to start might need a third down the road.
How do you account for the flashes with the camera. Is a 3rd light gonna cause problems with too much light or does it kind of balance.
Message edited by author 2007-03-05 11:01:00. |
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03/05/2007 11:01:55 AM · #4 |
Originally posted by idnic: For a single person one light and a reflector would be fine, but if you want to shoot several people you almost definitely need more than one flash/strobe. People tend to block each other and one light can only travel so far, for a larger group you might need 3 or 4 lights to get even light on everyone. |
It depends. If you can barebulb against a big wall behind you and ceiling you can cover a large group with almost no shadows. You will need extra power and of course a wall... LOL
But Cindi is right, it's really hard to do groups with a single light source, unless that light source is very wide and coming from directly ahead.
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03/05/2007 11:03:22 AM · #5 |
Originally posted by RainMotorsports:
How do you account for the flashes with the camera. Is a 3rd light gonna cause problems with too much light or does it kind of balance. |
You're going to have to get a flash meter and learn to read it.
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03/05/2007 11:11:44 AM · #6 |
AT this point it looks like a basic studio to effectivly shoot 3 people would cost more then My K10D Lens, Battery Grip and Memory Card will.
Maybe i need to try something else instead lol. Like an outdoor activity.
I really want to shoot races but its hard for me to get to stuff that runs daytime and minorly hard to get trackside seeing as how i dont know anyone.
I figured doing portraiture would teach me a bit of lighting control. |
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03/07/2007 11:18:52 AM · #7 |
Get this book on lighting for under $20 at amazon. there is a DVD series available as well.
2 lights with umbrellas should work, AB800 or better. I use paterson interfit stellar units - same features as AB but about 20% less costly.
The included umbrellas as always kinda cheap - so invest in a couple of photogenic eclipse umbrellas - for groups 60" ones.
get a light meter - a sekonic L358 is an excellent choice, and should you get wireless triggers like pocket wizards you can still use that meter.
2 lights will work, 3 or 4 will work better. a reflector panel works great for individuals but is less useful with groups.
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03/07/2007 11:34:56 AM · #8 |
Originally posted by RainMotorsports: AT this point it looks like a basic studio to effectivly shoot 3 people would cost more then My K10D Lens, Battery Grip and Memory Card will.
Maybe i need to try something else instead lol. Like an outdoor activity.
I really want to shoot races but its hard for me to get to stuff that runs daytime and minorly hard to get trackside seeing as how i dont know anyone.
I figured doing portraiture would teach me a bit of lighting control. |
find local events and go and shoot them - it's practice and often free. Around here we have a zoo (indoors and outdoor exhibits...and an aquarium - lots of challenges!), an aboretum (plants), a conservatory (more plants and butterflies), an aviary (birds), a wide variety of public races (bikes, vintage cars, runners, walkathons), parades (St Patricks day is coming up). Check out regattas, campouts or history re-enactments of civil war stuff, etc.
scenic shots are doable anytime.
car shows, RV shows, home and garden shows are all this time of the year.
I went to a car show to play, er, practice, with my new lens - had a great time.
In other words - go take pictures!
some shots i got at events like i mentioned above:

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03/07/2007 12:15:19 PM · #9 |
You work at a car dealership, don't you? Around here most dealerships sponsor a local racer or two. Maybe the place you work does the same? Find out if they do and who it is. Contact them, tell them who you work for and what you're looking to do. That may be an "in". Maybe not nascar, but, experience. |
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03/07/2007 12:36:18 PM · #10 |
Don't waste your money on a studio right away. I have had my business for 2 years now, and I just turned my basement into a studio. I have a bunch of drops, a drop holder, props, and 3 lights (and a reflector) I use an AB400, and AB800 and an old hot light. I only use the hotlight for when I do high key shots.
I would say to start off with 2 lights. A reflector works well when you need more then 2 lights, but it doesn't replace a light. You can do SO much more with 2 lights than one. You can even do high key shots with 2 lights (I'm not good at that.. so I use 3)
Just build up your portfolio before you go and get a studio. They can be very expensive! When I first started.. I actually lugged around all of my equipment and did shoots on location.
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03/07/2007 12:39:04 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by error99: You work at a car dealership, don't you? Around here most dealerships sponsor a local racer or two. Maybe the place you work does the same? Find out if they do and who it is. Contact them, tell them who you work for and what you're looking to do. That may be an "in". Maybe not nascar, but, experience. |
The local Mazda dealership actuall sponsers a stree racer around here.... Yeah well they dont sponser him as a street racer but his car is basicly a rolling advertisment and has many MazdaSpeed Parts on it. Now if I only had a ford.... Hey ill take that Shelby GT500 over there (we do have one).
But yeah I dunno if koons does any sponserships or maybe atleast has some hookups like the upper ford employees do to get down to events in special areas. |
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03/07/2007 12:47:09 PM · #12 |
Originally posted by Prof_Fate:
find local events and go and shoot them - it's practice and often free. Around here we have a zoo (indoors and outdoor exhibits...and an aquarium - lots of challenges!), an aboretum (plants), a conservatory (more plants and butterflies), an aviary (birds), a wide variety of public races (bikes, vintage cars, runners, walkathons), parades (St Patricks day is coming up). Check out regattas, campouts or history re-enactments of civil war stuff, etc.
scenic shots are doable anytime.
car shows, RV shows, home and garden shows are all this time of the year.
I went to a car show to play, er, practice, with my new lens - had a great time.
In other words - go take pictures!
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I shoot car shows every year shoot a few hundred picks and get a few that I like. Having trouble getting those extreme angles id like. It's even harder when there is people. I have a hookup at the new DC convention center might try to pull some strings get some pre show shooting in next year.
I like the shot you have on the super bee. I have issues with tight frame shots.
I have SOME better stuff but as far as cars go heres a few shots cant say there any good.
  
This is a shot of myne edited by someone because there was too many people around the car. |
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03/08/2007 12:49:58 AM · #13 |
I have lots more from the Detroit car show pics here I didn't get any special access - just a canon 10-22 lens - you can just about touch the car with the lens and get it all in the pic - so you don't get people between you and the car!
I tend to shoot loose and crop later. I know tighter is better...I keep trying to break myself of this bad habit, but it's not easy.
the one civil war encampment/re-enactment was difficult to shoot - i had no real idea on where they'd be set up, shooting, attacking from, etc. I asked before hand and what they actually did was different anyway. Anticipating the action is the key, and it was a fairly unpredictable event (the battle).
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03/08/2007 02:00:27 AM · #14 |
I don't know if this is of any use to you, but....
I use Canon, so don't know how the Pentax will compare. For lugging stuff around, I'm currently using a couple of flashguns fired off-camera, using the Canon remote. This means that I can set it all up without having to have access to wall-sockets. It also means that the camera's TTL metering can sort out most of the lightling levels automatically (note the emphasis on the word 'most), once the initial set-up is done. I shot a series of portraits at a wedding the other week this way. This included some of the bride in white and other guests dressed in black. Certainly, Alien Bees will be more powerful as far as a light source is concerned, but I, personally, prefer the portability of flashes and the fact that they can be camera-controlled. YMMV.
Edit:D'oh, forgot to mention the bit about the kit lens. If you are shooting using studio lights of some flavour or other, you can easily shoot at f/8, at which most lenses will be nearly equal, so the kit lens should be more than all right for this.
Message edited by author 2007-03-08 02:02:26.
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