I was Wondering how to Do this.......

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS

01/05/2007 12:01:29 PM · #1

I really like this style of photography.... i have a friend that wants me to take pictures of her little girl like this..... i know it a PS thing but is there a tutorial that any one has done on this kind of Photog.....?

here is the picture.....

Thanks

Chris

Konador

Canon EOS-500D Rebel T1i

01/05/2007 12:02:56 PM · #2

Not necessarily a PS thing. Overexposing in-camera will get these results. Then you can just adjust the levels a tiny bit in PS to make the dark areas black rather than washed out grey.

Basically, overexpose and then boost the contrast.

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS

01/05/2007 12:07:06 PM · #3

Sorry.... do you happen to know like what i should set the settings to to play with....??

Edit: Can any one post there Ex. here i would like to see more of these =)

Message edited by author 2007-01-05 12:10:35.

Konador

Canon EOS-500D Rebel T1i

01/05/2007 12:12:37 PM · #4

I'm not sure how to do it on a Nikon, but if you're using any kind of auto exposure settings, try setting the exposure to +1 or +2 stops so it overexposes a bit. If that's not enough, go into manual mode and make the exposure time longer.

glad2badad

Apple iPhone 16 Pro

Lensbaby Sweet 35 Optic

01/05/2007 12:15:25 PM · #5

Originally posted by Givemeashot:

Sorry.... do you happen to know like what i should set the settings to to play with....??

Edit: Can any one post there Ex. here i would like to see more of these =)

DPChallenge photos : High Key (search term)

Sony 24-70mm F4 Vario-Tessar T* FE OSS

01/05/2007 12:16:12 PM · #6

Nice!! Thanks Ill try some tonight and ill post some of my results =)

Bear_Music

Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra

01/05/2007 12:21:59 PM · #7

Meter on the skin with the camera in manual. Use +2 stops as your base exposure (that would be zone 7 skin) and bracket around that. In other words, +1, +2, and +3 would be safe range to bracket for this effect naturally.

R.

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

01/05/2007 12:27:25 PM · #8

so this has nothing to do with Shutter speed or Aperture?? i think i know what you talking about... it s a mode in the camera... that you do right... Sorry for all questions.... lol =)

slide12345678

Canon EOS-5D

01/05/2007 12:29:30 PM · #9

after converting to B&W, Curves + Levels in photoshop will get you really close

some spot editing may be necessary to achieve a completely white look

Bear_Music

Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra

Sony 24-70mm F4 Vario-Tessar T* FE OSS

01/05/2007 12:47:47 PM · #10

Originally posted by Givemeashot:

so this has nothing to do with Shutter speed or Aperture?? i think i know what you talking about... it s a mode in the camera... that you do right... Sorry for all questions.... lol =)

It has to do entirely with "exposure", as far as getting it right in-camera concerned, and also contrast. An evenly-lit, "overexposed", contrasty image looks like that out of camera. If you get it close in-camera, you can very easily finish it in PS.

Understand this: your light meter assumes that the surface it is metering is a neutral, zone 5, middle gray, and sets an exposure to reproduce that. So if you want a white wall to BE a white wall out of the camera, you have to give two stops more exposure than the camera thinks is correct.

If you set your camera to manual mode, where you adjust both aperture and shutter speed to your liking, you get an "exposure bar" along the bottom of the viewfinder image. If you adjust aperture and shutter so the indicator is in the middle of that bar, you have the "base" exposure, the zone 5 exposure. The easiest way to do this is to choose a shutter speed in the neighborhood o0f what you need, then dial up or down on the aperture until the needle centers.

Example: at 1/125 the needle centers at f/5.6, or at 1/60 it centers at f/8.0, or at 1/30 it centers at f/11.0, or at 1/15 it centers at f/16.0 â�� each of these is the exact same exposure, they just use progressively slower shutter speeds and progressively smaller apertures to deliver the same quantum of light to the sensor.

Now, this base exposure (call it 1/30 and f/11) delivers a zone 5 rendering of the scene (in this case a white wall). So we need to give 2 stops more exposure to get the wall onto zone 7, a textured white zone that we can work with in photoshop, not blown out but exactly gray either. This means we need to give an exposure of 1/8 at f/11 OR 1/30 at f/5.6 (changing either the shutter speed or aperture, as best suits us). There are a bunch of other combinations that result in the same exposure, but you get the idea.

So, to get back to your headshot; in manual mode, move in close, fill the frame with skin, and make a mental note of the recommended exposure to center the needle. In this case, it would be 1/30 at f/11. Now go back to a normal viewing distance, frame your shot up, and set the camera at 2 stops more exposure than the one you noted. Call it 1/30 at f/5.6. This produces a digital image in camera with the skin tones rendered quite bright. If you ALSO set in-camera contrast to high, it will exaggerate the look. But I prefer to do that in PP.

R.

Message edited by author 2007-01-05 13:30:06.