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08/29/2006 01:50:10 PM · #1 |
| I dont have my camera with me at work right now to try it out. This thing is pitch black! I even took it outside and held it up to the sun and saw no light coming through. How is that supposed to work? This probably sounds really dumb, but I'm stumped. thanks. |
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08/29/2006 01:51:43 PM · #2 |
It's broke...send it to me.
Actually, up the exposure time and widen the aperture.
Message edited by author 2006-08-29 13:52:02.
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08/29/2006 01:53:54 PM · #3 |
| whats a normal shutter speed for a good IR shot? 1sec, 5sec, 30sec? Won't there be alot of motion blur if trees are blowing and stuff? |
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08/29/2006 01:55:22 PM · #4 |
This was 8 seconds
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08/29/2006 01:57:15 PM · #5 |
| cool. whats the pink spot in the middle? glare i guess? thanx for the example, helps alot! |
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08/29/2006 01:59:13 PM · #6 |
Originally posted by Nikonian Ninja:
cool. whats the pink spot in the middle? glare i guess? thanx for the example, helps alot! |
From what I hear...I don't know exactly as this is a friend's lens that I held in front of my P&S...that you get that pink spot if you have lower quality glass. I have a couple of other shots where I decreased the aperture and lowered the shutter to 4 seconds and it doesn't seem to be there. I'll have to process them after I get home tonight.
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08/29/2006 02:00:40 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by Nikonian Ninja:
I even took it outside and held it up to the sun and saw no light coming through. How is that supposed to work? |
You can't see light coming through because you can't see infrared!
Shutter speed depends on the camera and the scene -- experiment. If you really get hooked you will want a camera modified with it's infrared blocking filter (in front of the sensor) replaced with an infrared passing filter. Then it works like a regular camera, even with "normal" exposure times, and you can compose your shot normally as well.
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08/29/2006 02:02:28 PM · #8 |
BTW, usually they include a little warning tag with IR filters about not using the naked eye to look through them as it can cause eye damage. I've never really been sure about that, but I figure better safe than sorry.
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08/29/2006 02:05:57 PM · #9 |
just shot a bunch at noon today ...
roughly iso 400 1.5-2sec at f/13 on the D100
noon nearly cloud free
cover up the view finder (i't doesn't help but may leak light through the mirror) you may have ahd a cover ship with your camera (blk tape works well too)
my histograms tend to stay left of 3/4 --
DON"T look at the sun through them - the amount of IR could damage your sight ...
going to remove the hot mirror some day .... |
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08/29/2006 02:14:46 PM · #10 |
| LOL, im a dork. Thanks for the warnings. I guess I shouldn't look at the sun with my binoculars and telescope anymore either :) |
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08/29/2006 02:17:28 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by Nikonian Ninja:
LOL, im a dork. Thanks for the warnings. I guess I shouldn't look at the sun with my binoculars and telescope anymore either :) |
You'll have to change your user name to "Squinty"
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08/29/2006 02:24:37 PM · #12 |
 I shot this at ISO 100, f/4.2, and the exposure was 30 sec. Now it was a cloudy day hence the long exposure. However, I like to shoot IR with my f-stops closed down most of the time and I almost always will shoot 100 ISO, so my exposures range anywhere from 30 sec to 90 sec, even in bright sun. I know that if you up the ISO and open up then the times will go down but I like the effect of the long times.
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08/29/2006 02:25:53 PM · #13 |
 marbo's pic is only 1/80 but a superwide aperture. This is one of the pics that inspired me to get the filter. |
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08/29/2006 02:27:09 PM · #14 |
Originally posted by cryan:
I shot this at ISO 100, f/4.2, and the exposure was 30 sec. Now it was a cloudy day hence the long exposure. However, I like to shoot IR with my f-stops closed down most of the time and I almost always will shoot 100 ISO, so my exposures range anywhere from 30 sec to 90 sec, even in bright sun. I know that if you up the ISO and open up then the times will go down but I like the effect of the long times. |
this shot rocks!! |
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08/29/2006 02:29:21 PM · #15 |
Originally posted by Nikonian Ninja:
marbo's pic is only 1/80 but a superwide aperture. This is one of the pics that inspired me to get the filter. |
The camera that he used here is very good for IR pictures. Philup used it as well until he sold it to me. No tripod needed with this camera. Just point and shoot. |
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08/29/2006 03:13:40 PM · #16 |
acouple of hours ago .. |
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08/29/2006 03:21:35 PM · #17 |
IR light = heat.
Hot objects should expose as highlights, cool objects as shadows. When you look at a scene, you have to adapt to this interpretation to predict what you'll get. |
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08/29/2006 03:29:26 PM · #18 |
Originally posted by GeneralE:
IR light = heat.
Hot objects should expose as highlights, cool objects as shadows. When you look at a scene, you have to adapt to this interpretation to predict what you'll get. |
IR occupies a fairly wide spectral band. Heat IR is emitted at wavelengths for which glass is opaque. The kind of IR that a digital camera sees is near infra-red. Hot objects emmit some near IR radiation, but not enough for thermal imaging. The brightness of objects depends on how much IR they reflected. The sky doesn't reflect much IR and is therefore black in IR photos. Trees reflect a lot of IR, that's why they show up white. |
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08/29/2006 03:34:20 PM · #19 |
| what's the best way to clean a lens or filter glass? |
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08/29/2006 04:49:58 PM · #20 |
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08/30/2006 11:47:58 AM · #21 |
| hey, thanks for all the tips and examples! I can't wait to start breaking this thing in. |
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08/30/2006 12:30:42 PM · #22 |
Originally posted by marbo:
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i love that you chose not to swap the red & blue channels on this one... i left one of my perspective outtakes with the brown tone sky and loved the look of it (though the one i actually entered, i did convert... )
personally, i'm a little burned out on the white trees in IR... I like to see a little more color than just the blue sky or water...
this is what i've been playing around with in IR lately :
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08/30/2006 05:14:50 PM · #23 |
I`ve also been moving away from the harsh blue and whites in my ir photos.
My olympus c2020 is very sensitive to ir but does not have the range of colours that the nikon d50 has.
My latest is this one i shot last week but got DQ`ed because i had the wrong year set on my camera :(
Much more colour than i could ever get with the olympus.
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08/30/2006 05:20:23 PM · #24 |
If anybody is serious about this there is a special edition 20Da out there somewhere, mainly used by astrophotographers (the IR blocking filter has been removed)
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08/31/2006 11:09:22 AM · #25 |
I have a question for you IR gurus out there, and I figured this was a good place to put it. I am wondering how to go about getting different colored trees (grass, etc.) in the final version of the image. Most IR shots seem to make green things totally white, but then there are others with bright pink or even yellowish trees (see examples from this thread below).
Any help would be greatly appreciated! |
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