I Need Studio Lighting Help! - DPChallenge Forums

08/16/2006 11:36:03 PM · #1

Okay, I recently purchased the 600 Watt Paterson Interfit Stellar Lights (2 of them). So I tried them out for the first time and whaaaaaaaaat? I must must must be doing something wrong. Here are three images. The first is the one where the strobes are fired full power, with sb-600 directed at ceiling. The second is shot with a sb-600 only directed at ceiling. The third is Aperture priority with no flash and no strobes..

Why in the world is the one with the strobes fired full blast the least bright. They are definitely firing because it blinds me. What am I doing wrong? Any ideas? I am firing them with the sb-600 triggering the strobes with IR. I am probably just a moron....Help...

Message edited by author 2006-08-16 23:36:23.

08/16/2006 11:38:06 PM · #2

Does your flash use a pre-flash to determine exposure? If so, it's triggering the strobes BEFORE the shutter opens. Must set the flash to NON-ettl mode.

fotomann_forever

08/16/2006 11:39:44 PM · #3

Yu'll need to be in full manual mode to use your strobes. Start with your shutter speed at about 1/200 sec and your aperture at around f/11. Adjust the aperture to control the exposure of the strobes.

08/16/2006 11:40:35 PM · #4

I think I got it. I am stupid. I changed my sb-600 to manual mode and then tried it. And now I am toooooo bright, so i better back it off a bit. That is more in line with what everyone said......I think I got it. thanks guys, and dwterry.

08/16/2006 11:42:58 PM · #5

Originally posted by Cutter:

thanks guys, and dwterry.

Why can't I be one of the guys?

;-)

fotomann_forever

08/16/2006 11:44:30 PM · #6

Originally posted by dwterry:

Why can't I be one of the guys?

;-)

That leaves me as the lone guy :-)

08/16/2006 11:46:52 PM · #7

i wrote that while you were in the middle of posting dumb##$. You guys are part of the guys, guys.....right everyone......crickets....crickets...chirping...

08/16/2006 11:54:39 PM · #8

Back to the topic at hand ... okay, you've had like ... uh ... 15 minutes. Now let's see some pictures with the new strobes! :-)

08/16/2006 11:59:37 PM · #9

actually I just tried out the exposure issues. tomorrow I am going to really get after it, because everything is really picking up steam for me. Very exciting stuff.

fotomann_forever

08/17/2006 12:01:38 AM · #10

Cool... since you don't have a flash meter, take time to look at the histograms of your pics and make notes of what you exposure settings were and such.

08/17/2006 12:04:41 AM · #11

good idea. I learned photography by simply shooting, reading and asking over the past 18 months. Now I am entering a new arena here and it is a lot of fun.

08/17/2006 12:08:34 AM · #12

Okay, now here's what you need to know when using strobes:

1) Shutter speed doesn't matter. At least ... not for the exposure of your subject. That's because the duration of your strobe light is less than your shutter sync speed. So the only thing the shutter speed really affects is the amount of AMBIENT light you let in. (if you want ambient light, go for a slow shutter speed and tell your subjects not to move - if you don't want ambient light, then boost the shutter speed all the way up to sync speed - but really, any speed will do, it's all the same strobe light exposure on your subject)

2) Therefore, as fotoman said ... you control your exposure with your f/stop - or by varying the power of your strobes. If your strobes have a wide range of power settings, then I'd fine tune the aperture for the exact amount of DOF you want and then adjust the power of the strobes. If not, then set the strobe power as close as you can get to what you desire for an f/stop, then move the aperture up or down to fine tune the exposure.

Best-Buy Easy Point & Click

08/17/2006 12:16:36 AM · #13

that's awesome info d-dub. My strobes show 1/32 all the way up to 1. And then there is the option of "Max" or "prop" for proportional. So I can definitely change the power. And I got two 39 inch softboxes for each strobe so the light is so nice. if you keep talking about it, I am going to have to go take photos of myself or something to try it out.

heathen

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4.0L USM

08/17/2006 12:20:55 AM · #14

I can't contribitute to this discussion in any meaningful way, so I'll just compliment you on your house...very nice...I smell LoDo :)

Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II

08/17/2006 02:06:26 AM · #15

Originally posted by photoheathen:

I can't contribitute to this discussion in any meaningful way, so I'll just compliment you on your house...very nice...I smell LoDo :)

hmmm, someone has lived in Denver too long. thank you for your compliment and your guess might be right.

LoDo doesn't smell...

Chiqui

Olympus 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro

08/17/2006 07:13:38 AM · #16

Unless you want to go the trial and error way, you need to get a light meter when you are using strobes. It will save you lots of headaches, trust me. If you are using a flash on top of your camera to trigger the strobes, don't. Instead use a synch cord that goes from your camera to one of the strobes. You'd still need a light meter but the strobes would fire when the shutter opens. Just my two cents.

June

Chiqui

Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II

Olympus 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro

08/17/2006 07:14:43 AM · #17

OK, I just realized that you are using an IR trigger. I would still go the cord way because the red from the IR beam does get reflected on some subjects.

June

TrynityRose

Nikon D100

Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8

08/17/2006 09:46:17 AM · #18

Originally posted by Cutter:

Hrm, how did you put the sb-600 on manual mode? I had the same problem with the flash preflashing and setting the strobes off too soon. I'm STILL waiting on my AS-15 so I can use the sync cords.

Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8

08/17/2006 11:33:43 AM · #19

Originally posted by TrynityRose:

Originally posted by Cutter:
I think I got it. I am stupid. I changed my sb-600 to manual mode and then tried it. And now I am toooooo bright, so i better back it off a bit. That is more in line with what everyone said......I think I got it. thanks guys, and dwterry.

Hrm, how did you put the sb-600 on manual mode? I had the same problem with the flash preflashing and setting the strobes off too soon. I'm STILL waiting on my AS-15 so I can use the sync cords.

Do you have a sb-600? If so, I did these steps...1. TURN ON 2. Push MODE until the M with a 1/1 or some fraction shows up. That is manual mode. I found that 1/1 is strongest all the way down to 1/64 or something is weakest. I point the 600 straight at the ceiling if I don't want much of any flash lighting. That way there is not any lag. If I want the eyes to pop a little more I will put the LS on and point it directly at subject with the strobes flanking my left and right at 45 degrees.

Does that make sense?

Here are some examples of pretty old me practicing last night....

TrynityRose

Nikon D100

08/17/2006 11:39:22 AM · #20

Originally posted by Cutter:

Originally posted by TrynityRose:

Originally posted by Cutter:
I think I got it. I am stupid. I changed my sb-600 to manual mode and then tried it. And now I am toooooo bright, so i better back it off a bit. That is more in line with what everyone said......I think I got it. thanks guys, and dwterry.

Hrm, how did you put the sb-600 on manual mode? I had the same problem with the flash preflashing and setting the strobes off too soon. I'm STILL waiting on my AS-15 so I can use the sync cords.

Do you have a sb-600? If so, I did these steps...1. TURN ON 2. Push MODE until the M with a 1/1 or some fraction shows up. That is manual mode. I found that 1/1 is strongest all the way down to 1/64 or something is weakest. I point the 600 straight at the ceiling if I don't want much of any flash lighting. That way there is not any lag. If I want the eyes to pop a little more I will put the LS on and point it directly at subject with the strobes flanking my left and right at 45 degrees.

Does that make sense?

Thank you, thank you! I was putting the camera in manual and not the flash. Just tried it now and my strobes work! 2 months in the box waiting for the AS-15 to be in stock and now they work! Woohoo new toy for me. Gosh, I feel so stupid.

PS. Yup, you're very pretty! :P

wavelength

Nikon D300

Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D

08/17/2006 12:30:10 PM · #21

I feel Pretty :P

Prof_Fate

08/17/2006 12:46:05 PM · #22

get the book Studio Lighting for Portrait Photographers - it explains tons and has exapmples and diagram of just about all types of lighting set-ups.

You need a light meter if you want much more than bland or lucky shots. There is no way to measure each light and set up ratios without a meter - if for example, you want a main and hair light and a reflector for fill, the main and reflector are somewhat easy (your histogram can be used) but how do you set the rim/hair light? trial and error or use a meter. As you add more lights or try other lighting arrangements you need a meter.

sekonic L358 is great and can be 'expanded' to trigger pocket wizard receivers (no cords!!).

canon (and i think paterson too) recomend 1/125 for a studio shutter speed on the camera. it allows time for the strobes's light to completely be recorded and the time to trigger. 1/200or 1/250 may not, so you may get inconsistent exposures.