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05/31/2006 08:49:51 PM · #1 |
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05/31/2006 08:52:17 PM · #2 |
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05/31/2006 08:55:33 PM · #3 |
quite simple really but only for advanced editing challenges of course
duplicate layer -
run the high pass filter (start with a radius of about 10 - work from there)
make blending mode "overlay" or "hard light" depending on what look you are going for
season to taste (adjust Opacity slider and layer mask areas that you dont want sharpened)
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05/31/2006 08:59:04 PM · #4 |
hmm.. read this, but still not quite exactly sure what high pass sharpening is or when to use it.. |
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05/31/2006 09:00:56 PM · #5 |
it is just another way or method to sharpen up your photo. Some people stick with high pass. some with USM. Some with the new Smart Sharpen. I believe in USM. The High Pass doesn't do much for me that USM can't, and USM is quicker especially because I know my radius/percentage ratios by heart.
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05/31/2006 09:04:31 PM · #6 |
| hmmm... what are the differences? benefits, etc? |
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05/31/2006 10:02:21 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by amandalore:
hmmm... what are the differences? benefits, etc? |
the biggest benefit is that you don't have to flatten the image to use it. and because it exists on its own layer you can use image masks to apply it to only one part of the photo, and you can adjust the settings in the future if you decide you want a different look. |
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05/31/2006 10:10:01 PM · #8 |
Originally posted by dr_timbo:
Originally posted by amandalore:
hmmm... what are the differences? benefits, etc? |
the biggest benefit is that you don't have to flatten the image to use it. and because it exists on its own layer you can use image masks to apply it to only one part of the photo, and you can adjust the settings in the future if you decide you want a different look. |
thank you |
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05/31/2006 10:14:58 PM · #9 |
I think I read somewhere that using High Pass as your sharpening method works better on images that you will be printing out but I have no experience on whether that is true or not. I just use smart sharpening or multiple passes of USM.
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05/31/2006 10:16:26 PM · #10 |
| also, another quick Q I can't find in the forums, what is masking? image/layer/contrast masking, seems that term comes up a lot |
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05/31/2006 11:40:43 PM · #11 |
When working in photoshop with layers, you can choose (by creating a mask) to which part of the photo your layer is going to be applied. (I hate passive voice).
Experiment with gradient masks:
open an image, create adjustment layer e.g. for levels, and after applying some extreme levels adjustment apply gradient mask on the adjustment layer and see the effects. |
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06/01/2006 12:44:04 AM · #12 |
Originally posted by dr_timbo:
Originally posted by amandalore:
hmmm... what are the differences? benefits, etc? |
the biggest benefit is that you don't have to flatten the image to use it. and because it exists on its own layer you can use image masks to apply it to only one part of the photo, and you can adjust the settings in the future if you decide you want a different look. |
To apply USM without flattening;
- create a new layer above all others and name it USM (or whatever),
- stamp visible layers on it ,
- add layer mask to layer,
- apply USM to layer,
- and adjust opacity and blending modes to suit.
David
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06/01/2006 02:42:09 AM · #13 |
Originally posted by srdanz:
When working in photoshop with layers, you can choose (by creating a mask) to which part of the photo your layer is going to be applied. (I hate passive voice).
Experiment with gradient masks:
open an image, create adjustment layer e.g. for levels, and after applying some extreme levels adjustment apply gradient mask on the adjustment layer and see the effects. |
maybe my question is more basic than that... all I see is layer mask --> hide all, reveal all and vector mask --> hide all, reveal all... etc
still not sure What a mask is... :\ sorry, lacking any background here |
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06/01/2006 03:13:12 AM · #14 |
Originally posted by amandalore:
Originally posted by srdanz:
When working in photoshop with layers, you can choose (by creating a mask) to which part of the photo your layer is going to be applied. (I hate passive voice).
Experiment with gradient masks:
open an image, create adjustment layer e.g. for levels, and after applying some extreme levels adjustment apply gradient mask on the adjustment layer and see the effects. |
maybe my question is more basic than that... all I see is layer mask --> hide all, reveal all and vector mask --> hide all, reveal all... etc
still not sure What a mask is... :\ sorry, lacking any background here |
At its most basic, a mask is an 8-bit grayscale image that is used to set the opacity for each pixel of the layer. In the mask, white is 100% opacity and black is 0% opacity, with the 254 levels of gray in between filling in the %'s between. This allows a part of the image to have the whatever effect is applied to the layer faded for different parts of the image.
David
Message edited by author 2006-06-01 03:23:11.
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06/01/2006 03:44:28 AM · #15 |
Originally posted by David.C:
At its most basic, a mask is an 8-bit grayscale image that is used to set the opacity for each pixel of the layer. In the mask, white is 100% opacity and black is 0% opacity, with the 254 levels of gray in between filling in the %'s between. This allows a part of the image to have the whatever effect is applied to the layer faded for different parts of the image.
David |
ok. now how do you create them? or is it different for each type of mask? ie: add layer mask to layer |
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06/01/2006 05:07:33 AM · #16 |
Originally posted by amandalore:
Originally posted by David.C:
At its most basic, a mask is an 8-bit grayscale image that is used to set the opacity for each pixel of the layer. In the mask, white is 100% opacity and black is 0% opacity, with the 254 levels of gray in between filling in the %'s between. This allows a part of the image to have the whatever effect is applied to the layer faded for different parts of the image.
David |
ok. now how do you create them? or is it different for each type of mask? ie: add layer mask to layer |
Any selection can be made into a mask for the selected layer by clicking on the 'new mask' icon (the square with a circle in it) at the bottom of the layers pallet.
Objects can be selected (the sky, for example) and the mask created will be white where the selection is and black everywhere else. This 'masks' the rest of the image and protects it from being altered while adjustments can be made to the part the image not masked off (the sky in the example). This is how it gets its name and in this usage is very similar to a painter using tape on the trim in a room to protect it while painting the walls.
This would be an example of a basic black or white ('all on' or 'all off') type of mask.
A typical mask that isn't all white or black, but has shades of gray is a luminosity mask. This is created by using a greyscale version of the image being edited as the mask. Since the highlights will be closer to white in the grayscale and the shadows will be closer to black, this causes any adjustment to be applied to the highlights a lot, the mid-tones a bit and the shadows very little. Inverting the mask reverses the effect and allows the shadows to be targeted.
Masking is a big subject, much too large to be handled well in a forum post, but fortunately the PS helpfiles (and the help files of other editors I'm sure) has a large section devoted to explaining the specific steps needed to make and use mask.
David
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06/01/2006 05:10:46 AM · #17 |
Originally posted by David.C:
Any selection can be made into a mask for the selected layer by clicking on the 'new mask' icon (the square with a circle in it) at the bottom of the layers pallet.
Objects can be selected (the sky, for example) and the mask created will be white where the selection is and black everywhere else. This 'masks' the rest of the image and protects it from being altered while adjustments can be made to the part the image not masked off (the sky in the example). This is how it gets its name and in this usage is very similar to a painter using tape on the trim in a room to protect it while painting the walls.
This would be an example of a basic black or white ('all on' or 'all off') type of mask.
A typical mask that isn't all white or black, but has shades of gray is a luminosity mask. This is created by using a greyscale version of the image being edited as the mask. Since the highlights will be closer to white in the grayscale and the shadows will be closer to black, this causes any adjustment to be applied to the highlights a lot, the mid-tones a bit and the shadows very little. Inverting the mask reverses the effect and allows the shadows to be targeted.
Masking is a big subject, much too large to be handled well in a forum post, but fortunately the PS helpfiles (and the help files of other editors I'm sure) has a large section devoted to explaining the specific steps needed to make and use mask.
David |
This is MUCH more helpful, ok, I get it now!! thank you, and I will look it up in the help files later |
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06/01/2006 06:30:57 AM · #18 |
I use high pass sharpening typically when I want my edges to pop. To do this:
Create a new layer. On that layer use filter, high pass. Set the slider to a point where only the edges you want sharpened are visible. (depending on the image, it can range from as little as 3). I wouldn't go too high - it introduces noise-like effects. Click okay. I usually set that layer as soft light - works better for me - and reduce the opacity to about 60% or so. The effects should be subtle - if you need more than that, the image may be too soft to begin with.
Typically I used this for flowers when I want crisp edges, occasionally a building when I want the detail to really stand out. I Never used it on people.
Good luck! For each thing you can do there are a million ways to do it in photoshop. |
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06/01/2006 04:38:32 PM · #19 |
Originally posted by amandalore:
This is MUCH more helpful, ok, I get it now!! thank you, and I will look it up in the help files later |
Glad I was able to help. BTW, I didn't mean that last bit about the help files as a brush off -- if you have any more questions don't hesitate to ask.
David
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06/01/2006 04:42:35 PM · #20 |
| I used high pass sharpening for a while, I prefered it to the PS USM. Then PS CS came out with "Smart Sharpen" which gave me more leverage, but it still wasn't enough. I tried other plugins until I came across the "Nik Sharpener Pro 2.0" which gives me the leverage I needed. I only sharpen with this plugin now, I recommend it. |
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06/01/2006 05:17:25 PM · #21 |
just to confuse things a bit, there is a single filter in PSP X called "high pass sharpen"...
since it wouldn't require adjustment layers and is applied to the entire image, i might guess that it would be legal under the basic rules...
but, then, i'm not SC, so...
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06/01/2006 08:33:01 PM · #22 |
| Thanks, I always forget the tutorials... I just found a few of them on exactly the topics I've been asking about, but hey *shrug* |
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06/02/2006 05:13:54 AM · #23 |
I use high pass sharpening when I want to sharpen only some edges but not others... I find it easier to work with than USM on a layer. I typically use it for people shots that are a touch soft and mask out to affect only eyes, other small details such as necklace, rings etc and some of the internal lines - I ensure that I am not sharpening the edge of their face/ body against the background as that really makes the sharpening obvious.
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06/02/2006 06:44:43 AM · #24 |
I used high pass sharpening in both of these photos. I used them on the stars and rain drops and it really made them pop out. i then set them to hard light and chenged opacity. I can't really explain it but it seems to bring out things like raindrops much more than unsharp masking does. I then masked out the cactus and and model and let it effect the rest of the image. Just a couple of exapmles.
Message edited by author 2006-06-02 06:45:45. |
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06/02/2006 10:08:27 PM · #25 |
Ok, ignore the strawberries, but what do you think of my attempt at layer masks and high pass sharpening on the mountain, and also the grass?
thread by amanda |
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