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05/26/2006 06:14:48 PM · #1 |
Hi Everyone,
I just got done with my motorcycle shoot. Some images are really good, others a tid-bit blurry from the speed and incorrect metering. My question is, I have about 300 pictures. I am learning curves, but I really need the editing to be on point for these. Is levels easier? How do you usually color correct photos?
Any assistance or tutorials are appreciated!
Thank you! |
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05/26/2006 06:43:24 PM · #2 |
My counsel -- always color correct w/ Curves. Scott Kelby in his book Photoshop [version] for Photographers offers a very good workflow for color correction. I have adopted it and use it as the first step in any post processing I do (after RAW conversion). Occasionally it will yield weird results, but 99% of the time it seems to be spot on.
Message edited by author 2006-05-26 18:44:20. |
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05/26/2006 06:58:43 PM · #3 |
Originally posted by tkare:
Any assistance or tutorials are appreciated! |
About the best tutorial on color correction and general adjustment layers is this one on the top of this webpage at the Radiant Vista:
A Photoshop Reference: Essential Adjustment Layers
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05/26/2006 07:05:12 PM · #4 |
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05/26/2006 07:21:36 PM · #5 |
I was taught to use levels - 3 different ways no less. Best bet is shoot RAW and get the WB correct. the rest is just tweaking after that.
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05/26/2006 07:41:24 PM · #6 |
This might help
The first post by Member jdannels along with the link from moodville.
It worked realy well for me on a bunch of pictures I took in sunlight but with the white balance set for tungsten. |
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05/26/2006 07:59:35 PM · #7 |
| Gene says his color don't need correctin'... |
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05/26/2006 08:04:08 PM · #8 |
Consider LAB color space
A Book
Message edited by author 2006-05-26 20:04:18. |
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05/26/2006 08:28:11 PM · #9 |
It may or may not be easier to correct color problems in LAB. Personally, I dont' find it so. In any case, unless LAB is acceptable for the end use (bery likely not) you'll end up making two conversions - one to LAB, and one back. The conversion is not without negative effects, though they are mild. I don't recommend using LAB for color correction, in short.
It's *very* easy to warm or cool, st black and white points, and correct other casts using curves. For warming, select red channel, place a control point in the center of the curve, and move that point up and left *slightly*. Select blue channel, place a central control point and move it down & right *slightly*. Readjust as required.
This is best done on a curves adjustment layer, so it is tweakable. |
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05/26/2006 08:44:33 PM · #10 |
Originally posted by kirbic:
It may or may not be easier to correct color problems in LAB. Personally, I dont' find it so. In any case, unless LAB is acceptable for the end use (bery likely not) you'll end up making two conversions - one to LAB, and one back. The conversion is not without negative effects, though they are mild. I don't recommend using LAB for color correction, in short.
It's *very* easy to warm or cool, st black and white points, and correct other casts using curves. For warming, select red channel, place a control point in the center of the curve, and move that point up and left *slightly*. Select blue channel, place a central control point and move it down & right *slightly*. Readjust as required.
This is best done on a curves adjustment layer, so it is tweakable. |
It does increase workflow. But from RAW to tiff, lab to rgb or cmyk I can't see the negative effects. Most of what I do is for print (CMYK) at 150lpi-200lpi (art print) on offset presses and have had great success. It is the way I learned first using Linotype-Hell scanners and LinoColor in LAB. It̢۪s just what I feel most comfy with!
:-) |
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05/31/2006 03:44:36 AM · #11 |
| You can down load white balance pluggin from imaging factory. They allow free trial for a month without any water marking ( at least thats what they used to do in past). It simply a great pluggin and very easy to use |
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