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03/24/2006 03:33:08 PM · #1 |
I thought this would be a useful post for those who have point and shoot cameras, not the beautiful, but stunningly expensive SLRs. I got this idea while voting on a challenge, and seeing a lot of shots that could have been great, but the camera failed them. i used a point and shoot film camera for a while after all my gear was stolen, and, with some imagination, you can get quite a lot of creative control.
So, lets have tips for photographers who want to take great shots, but can only afford a fuji pocket sized!
Here are my few.
Flash can be very harsh from a p&s. if your camera has a portrait mode, that will use a lower flash level, and allow in some ambient light.
if you want to shoot just ambient light, but your camera won't let you (sunsets, etc.), just put your hand over the flash. it's hot, but it works. i know some cameras have a 'bulb' setting, but i find they overexpose, or just expose for grey. so, again, the image you're shooting gets blahed, rather than dark and mysterious.
bump your resolution up to its highest level, and either get a bigger card, or do a lot of editing in the camera (ie, chuck the ones you don't like as you go, to save on card space). the higher your resolution, the more you can play with an image when you get it home.
turn off the date imprinter!
there, that's all i can think of now. so, come on, there must be lots of people out there iwth more tips on p&s work. share your tips, to help everyone be better photographers.
cheers all,
c.
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03/24/2006 03:45:22 PM · #2 |
| Always a good topic (I have one of those cameras!). Here's a DPC Tutorial with more ideas. |
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03/24/2006 04:00:51 PM · #3 |
P&S cameras have a deep Depth of Field, for portraits, try to put the subject at least twice the distance from the backgound as he/she is from the camera.
Outdoor portraits: I see a lot of photos where the subject is under-exposed. To correct this, try turning the flash on manually to provide fill-flash in outdoor portraits. Also, sheet of poster paper can be used to reflect available light onto the subject.
Biggest pet-peeve. Don't cut people off at the joints. Amputated feet, hands, etc. just looks painful. For any limb crop near mid-point between any two joints.
Message edited by author 2006-03-24 16:02:38.
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03/24/2006 04:07:39 PM · #4 |
Originally posted by xianart:
Flash can be very harsh from a p&s. if your camera has a portrait mode, that will use a lower flash level, and allow in some ambient light. |
Or make one of these:
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03/24/2006 04:14:41 PM · #5 |
Originally posted by Beetle:
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Great idea!
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03/24/2006 04:18:22 PM · #6 |
Originally posted by fotomann_forever:
Originally posted by Beetle:
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Great idea! |
That is a great idea....time to go find some plastic golf balls and try this. Any thoughts on the difference between a golf ball and a ping pong ball?
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03/24/2006 04:21:50 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by SamDoe1:
Any thoughts on the difference between a golf ball and a ping pong ball? |
Probably none. Was just thinking about those plastic baseballs for an even larger diffuser.
A big plastic softball for an external flash unit.
Edit: Danr typos.
Message edited by author 2006-03-24 16:22:12.
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03/24/2006 04:24:17 PM · #8 |
Originally posted by SamDoe1:
Any thoughts on the difference between a golf ball and a ping pong ball? |
Pick whichever one will fit, is pliable enough and is translucent enough.
Putting any sort of cover on there WILL cut down on the amount of light from the flash (duh, right? LOL), but you can compensate for that. I would have liked something a little more see-through than those golf balls, but they still work fine.
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03/24/2006 04:26:50 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by fotomann_forever:
Was just thinking about those plastic baseballs for an even larger diffuser.
A big plastic softball for an external flash unit.
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I liked the idea of something SMALL.
I have a proper flash and a lightsphere, but sometimes I just can't be bothered carrying so much gear. In that case, I'll keep the golfball in my bag just in case.... |
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03/24/2006 04:27:42 PM · #10 |
Originally posted by fotomann_forever:
Edit: Danr typos. |
LOL!
Plastic ball diffusers are a great idea.
I think it was on an episode of Scientific American Frontiers where Alan Alda worked with a technician to make a little offset reflector with two mirrors (like a little periscope) to reduce the red-eye effect from a P&S camera. |
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03/25/2006 10:38:09 AM · #11 |
the ping pong ball - what a great idea. i'll be using that soon on the canon!
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03/25/2006 12:45:22 PM · #12 |
Originally posted by Beetle:
Originally posted by SamDoe1:
Any thoughts on the difference between a golf ball and a ping pong ball? |
Pick whichever one will fit, is pliable enough and is translucent enough.
Putting any sort of cover on there WILL cut down on the amount of light from the flash (duh, right? LOL), but you can compensate for that. I would have liked something a little more see-through than those golf balls, but they still work fine. |
I used to use a small piece on giftwrap white tissue paper taped to my flash. I got my girls digging thru thier toys looking for one of these golfballs. GREAT idea!
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03/25/2006 01:26:22 PM · #13 |
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03/25/2006 01:36:48 PM · #14 |
I'm going to go buy a ping pong ball today and give this a try. I was just asking about the differences between the golf ball and the ping pong ball because of the small dimples in a golf ball and if these could make any difference in the way the light is diffused.
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03/25/2006 02:32:00 PM · #15 |
Trying to remember back to those days....ah yes.
The biggest give away (IMO) of a P&Ser is that snapshot (yes I said it) trait inherent to them. Add some depth to the shots.
1) Get off of A (Automatic) and P (progam) modes start with Av mode (or portrait if you have the Head icon on your dial or in the menu). Control your Aperture up or down to get a better DOF.
2) Composition (or placement of your subject) make sure there is plenty of distance between your Subject and Background objects, when I was shooting a p&ser; to get a (very) soft background I would make sure I the background was about 3 times further away than the distance I was to the subject.
Also zooming in on the subject as much as possible produces a shallower DOF.
Other things when using a P&S
The biggest thing I miss about my P&S is that I can no longer use my Ultra-Pod II... (my bad...I had the Ultra-Pod Mini)
If you don't have one, get one it will be the best $15 accessory for you P&S ever spent. Fits in your pocket but when you see that little tripod icon in the view finder pull it out and use it. Has a little velco strap that you can basically mount your cam to anything. Fold the legs down and you can attach it to fences, rails...well almost anything...
As others have pointed out...on board flash casts harsh shadows. I've used Pringle Can lids, 4 layers of scotch tape and the likes to diffuse mine... but the Ping-Pong ball sounds like a nicer alternative.
NEVER: Use Digital Zoom
And always remember: Friends don't let friends submit pictures taken with a cell phone... :)
Message edited by author 2006-03-25 14:42:21.
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03/25/2006 02:47:09 PM · #16 |
I like the ping-pong ball idea -- but I'm wondering if a larger ball (say baseball sized) would defuse the light better or if the flash would be so close it wouldn't matter. Any thoughts?
One thing I have noticed about this thread, those not using P&S cameras are still benefiting from the suggestions.
To add to the thread:
-- learn if and how to lock the exposure and focus (seperately if possible).
-- learn how to ensure your camera is focused at infinity (landscape mode will generally do this and tend toward smaller apertures).
-- in addition to the golfball above, learn how to adjust the exposure bias of the onboard flash.
-- use a tripod
-- only zoom when absolutely necessary, move closer if possible.
-- get a polarizer if shooting outside.
-- if at all possible, use the viewfinder. Get out of the habit of composing with the LCD screen. You will be more involved with the scene and your batteries will last longer (if you turn off the LCD, that is).
David
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03/25/2006 03:01:46 PM · #17 |
Originally posted by David.C:
-- if at all possible, use the viewfinder. Get out of the habit of composing with the LCD screen. You will be more involved with the scene and your batteries will last longer (if you turn off the LCD, that is).
David |
Good tips and it also steadies the camera more than holding it away from your face.
I'd like to add MOTION PANNING
Leanr to pan for motion shots. Simple trick is to stand with your legs placed slightly apart to steady yourself. Pan from your hips, twisting your upper body to follow motion. Once you have the subject "locked" in your viewfinder, keep chasing it while you press the shutter release. But, do not stop panning once you click the shutter. You should continue to pan smoothly with the subject. I recommend chasing it til your upper body is out of panning range.
This technique is good for dSLR and P&S cameras alike, but it provides the P&S users a bit of advantage at getting past shutter lag.
It's good for those love handles too :-)
Message edited by author 2006-03-25 15:07:43.
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03/25/2006 03:15:36 PM · #18 |
| Why are view finders being eliminated from the new P&S cameras? The guy at Best Buy said it was because "customers didn't want it". |
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03/25/2006 03:18:16 PM · #19 |
Originally posted by emorgan49:
Why are view finders being eliminated from the new P&S cameras? The guy at Best Buy said it was because "customers didn't want it". |
I suppose, on the low-end cameras, they are being elliminated for price cutting reasons. It adds a little cost, because you have to have a second set of optics. The sales guy is right too. Why add more to the cost of production if customers aren't screaming for it?
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03/25/2006 05:24:27 PM · #20 |
Pre-focus. Learn it, use it, love it. Master this little technique and shutter lag will simply become a minor inconvienence. Simply press the shutter half way down to set the focus and metering. Wait until your subject is where you want, press the button the rest of the way, wallah, no lag. With the big DOF on most P&S, if the subject changed distance from you it's not a big deal (most of the time).
ALWAYS shoot at the lowest ISO setting. Higher ISO settings on P&S are rarely useable.
NEVER use point and shoot mode. You take the picture, not the camera!
Disable the digital zoom so you can't even consider using it.
Take advantage of the LCD viewfinder and shoot angles DSLR folks either need a ladder or have to get dirty to get.
Scotch tape (not the magic clear stuff) over your flash makes a pretty good diffuser.
Manual focus on most P&S is nearly impossible so don't try it if you can't do it.
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03/25/2006 05:28:06 PM · #21 |
| Find the limits for macro, some P&S cameras have decent distance for maco and it can give some neat portrait type shots. |
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03/25/2006 06:42:02 PM · #22 |
| What's the deal with digital zoom? |
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03/25/2006 07:02:46 PM · #23 |
Originally posted by klstover:
What's the deal with digital zoom? |
Don't use it -- it's exactly the same as cropping the image and then resampling it up to the original size, except you throw away all the outside data before saving it to the card.
Use optical zoom only, and perform your "digital zoom" in post-processing. |
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03/25/2006 07:31:07 PM · #24 |
Hm. I think I don't know the difference between digital and optical zoom, or how to stop using digital zoom if I am.
Message edited by author 2006-03-25 19:31:40. |
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03/25/2006 07:37:14 PM · #25 |
| Optical zoom is usually controlled by a lever or button (you may hear a small motor moving the lens), or sometimes by a manual ring on the lens. Digital zoom is usually a menu setting -- look in the same places you'd set file size and ISO value. |
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