Photographing motion - DPChallenge Forums

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 USM

07/10/2003 02:56:09 AM · #1

I must've taken 10 000 000 shots during the speed challenge trying to get the effect described in this tutorial, but just couldn't get a good shot. My problem is that the moment the shutter release is depressed fully, my camera freezes the image. This means that if I pan the camera, following my subject, I can't see what I'm following. The result is that nearly all my shots come out with half (or all) of the subject cut off and or blurred along with everything else, because I either panned too fast or to slow.
Is this just a difficult technique to master, or am I doing something wrong? Are there cameras out there which do not freeze the view when the shutter release is pressed? I would really like to give this some more practise, but I'm kinda at the end of my wits with it.

Ps I ended up submitting this shot, which I really liked, but which many people found wanting in the speed category. At least I received some really helpful comments :)

Alpine99

Canon EOS-550D Rebel T2i

07/10/2003 03:01:20 AM · #2

I find panning shots easier if I use the viewfinder on the camera rather than the screen.. I have to remember to blow all the fluff out first!

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 USM

07/10/2003 03:11:14 AM · #3

Yeah, the shots taken using the view finder did come out better than th ones using the LCD, but not as good as the ones using the LCD and the tripod.

Alpine99

Canon EOS-550D Rebel T2i

07/10/2003 03:18:40 AM · #4

I think a lot of it is about practice.. I used to go watch car rallying so the photos I have of half a great looking car are many many many.. At least digital does allow you to go snapper crazy and see what you get..instantly...

07/10/2003 03:31:23 AM · #5

So if I understand you right, your camera does the same as mine? It also freezes the image?

hortopth

Canon EOS-D60

07/10/2003 05:19:48 AM · #6

actually, it shows no image...
The answer to your question, is that panning is not easy, and there is a lot of trial and error. I've found success with a traditional SLR, with the camera to the eye, but I don't think I've had a go with this camera.

brettd

Canon EOS-10D

07/10/2003 06:17:43 AM · #7

The Short answer is yes, it just takes practice.

If your camera has an optical viewfinder you can use that, but you shouldn't need to. My camera only has a viewfinder (SLR) so there is no preview LCD, and during the pic the viewfinder is blacked out.

Practice just following the object through the viewfinder without taking a picture to learn it's travel path, and when you take a pic, do it in the middle of a sweep. You won't be able to get away with 1/2 second shutter speeds, but you don't need to, use a slow ASA (100) and go for something like 1/45 - 1/20 (depending on the speed of the object), use shutter priority so your camera picks an apeture to give correct exposure.

Other things:
- If the starting point of your movement track is darker or lighter than the target area, half press first in the target area to get exposure / focus lock (also do this if your camera doesn't have AI servo) - Depending on your camera, manual focus may be best anyway.
- Adjust the ASA speed up or down if you are unable to get correct exposure, but I prefer low ASA speeds for lower noise.

07/10/2003 06:43:48 AM · #8

Thanks for the advice!

crabappl3

07/10/2003 09:18:46 AM · #9

My shot:

was taken from a boat using my 1.7 teleconverter, handheld. It can be done... you just need to make sure that your subject doesn't get tired of circling the boat! I did find out that the shutter speed doesn't need to be terribly slow in order to get motion blur. My shot was at 1/125 of a second. Now, she was hauling butt on that thing so my faster shutter speed worked out nicely.

It's all trial and error, but a nice technique when it comes out successful.

Gordon

RIM BlackBerry Curve

Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM

07/10/2003 09:27:54 AM · #10

It isn't too difficult a technique, the trick is having a good swing/ followthrough.

You probably want the camera up at your face, using the viewfinder, not the LCD preview. You want to start following the object, well before you press the shutter, press and keep moving, and keep going even after you hear the shutter click.

Smooth and constant, arms in at your side and rotate from your waist.

Shutter speed control is the real key, however, and like crab said, it is often faster than you think you'll need, although it obviously varies with factors like subject speed, distance, zoom length etc.

1/20sec about 70mm zoom
taxi pan

1/60sec, 110mm zoom

Mostly it takes lots of practice and wasted frames - something digital is great for!