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11/02/2005 10:13:17 PM · #1 |
Indoors, low light, no flash. 2.8L lenses 70-200 & 24-70.
Question is: What is the slowest shutter speed I can use which will guarantee no motion blur? |
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11/02/2005 10:13:53 PM · #2 |
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11/02/2005 10:14:43 PM · #3 |
| to 'guarantee' no motion blur, i would guess at 1/320" to 1/400". how much motion blur you will get depends on how fast your subject may be moving. |
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11/02/2005 10:16:56 PM · #4 |
| I always thought 1/125th was good enough for the majority of shooting? But this is just based on heresay, not experience. |
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11/02/2005 10:17:12 PM · #5 |
No motion blur whatsoever on your part without support (monopod), I would go no slower than 1/320 when shooting with the 70-200, and maybe 1/60 or 1/80 with the 24-70. But that's for me. Some people are steadier than I am.
Message edited by author 2005-11-02 22:17:29.
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11/02/2005 10:17:57 PM · #6 |
Originally posted by kenskid:
without tripod? |
I dont think a tripod helps with motion blur, just camera shake. Is this true? Would a tripod help? |
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11/02/2005 10:18:40 PM · #7 |
| Also, for a wedding, do any of you shoot at 3200 or would you stay at 1600? |
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11/02/2005 10:18:49 PM · #8 |
Message edited by author 2005-11-02 22:20:59. |
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11/02/2005 10:19:01 PM · #9 |
AV mode, ISO around 1000 to begin with, if you have IS turn it on.
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11/02/2005 10:19:28 PM · #10 |
When I am shooting children's portraits, I always try and shoot at 1/160th or faster. I agree that it just depends on how fast your subject is moving.
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11/02/2005 10:20:28 PM · #11 |
| I do have IS, and in the wedding, the fastest movement will be walking down the aisle... |
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11/02/2005 10:25:25 PM · #12 |
Originally posted by eslaydog:
I do have IS, and in the wedding, the fastest movement will be walking down the aisle... |
Keep in mind that IS does not give you a faster shutter speed OR stop motion blur. It's designed to minimize camera shake. |
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11/02/2005 10:27:37 PM · #13 |
So what is considered the bare minimum shutter speed to get a good crisp image of someone walking at a regular pace? 1/60? 1/80? 1/125? Faster?
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11/02/2005 10:29:19 PM · #14 |
Originally posted by jmsetzler:
Keep in mind that IS does not give you a faster shutter speed OR stop motion blur. It's designed to minimize camera shake. |
Yes, that is correct. But, put it on #2 for horizontal mode, and syncing with your subjects movement, your chances of a better picture have increased dramatically.
If not flash is used, and no support, this is a viable option.
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11/02/2005 10:57:09 PM · #15 |
The general rule of thumb is the same everywhere... 1/focal length for your hand held shutter speeds...
I find this nearly impossible in low indoor light, even at f/2.8. You just have to shoot a lot and you will increase your likelihood of getting good photos. If the ceiling is not too high, it's probalby worthwhile to bounce a flash. |
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11/02/2005 11:11:49 PM · #16 |
| A good way to get sharp images is also to shoot in burst mode. I've shot a t 1/60 sec at 200 mm when I shot a 5 frame burst, 2 or 3 images were pretty sharp, not amazing but sharp enough to use. The first frame will not be sharp, and the 2nd might be a little better, the 3rd and 4th could be ok if you really brace yourself for the shot. |
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11/02/2005 11:15:07 PM · #17 |
Start with camera shake - IS should help there, but the 1/focal length is a good rule.
As for the subject - depends. walking toward/away from you vs across the lens, and your distance to the subject will matter as well.
If you are using flash, it will not matter. If not, then i'd worry more about camera shake, or even bad focus before i'd worry about subject blur.
1/60 to 1/125 should be able to stop walking motion. Other motion...
Here is the walking couple, focal length of 29mm at 1/80, f7.1, ISO 400. No cropping, slight sharpening
Same shot closer to 100% crop - she is fine, he is turning his head, and it is not sharp.
(outdoors on a rainy day, no flash)
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11/03/2005 01:37:04 AM · #18 |
- Use low contrast for greater detail in the shadows.
- Test your camera with each ISO step so that you know exactly how high you can use before the results are too grainy ahead of time.
- Use exposure compensation as far as you feel comfortable with.
- Under-expose a step or two, especially if you shoot raw. This is almost always recoverable post-processing.
You can gain a lot of shutter speed using the above. I've never shot a wedding, but when I do concerts, I stay almost exclusively at 1/60. Although I probably have better lighting over a wedding. |
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