Mounting a photo to matteboard - DPChallenge Forums

Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro

10/20/2005 03:59:17 PM · #1

How do you do this? Anyone have a link to a tutorial?

Thanks y'all

Prof_Fate

10/20/2005 06:20:07 PM · #2

Gt a can of 3M photo spray mount and follow the directions on the can. I saw cheaper versions, but I;m not gonna risk damaging a photo (over time) to save $4 now. I got it at a craft store, along with the mount board. They have permanent and repositionable glues.

jenesis

Canon EOS-300D Rebel

Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II

10/20/2005 06:43:20 PM · #3

Here's a link to a tutorial that jmsetzler posted awhile back. Setzlers Matting, Mounting and Framing tutorial

I found it to very helpful and have referred back to it many times. Here also is a link to the thread that it was originally posted in just in case there is more info. there that might be helpful to you. :-)

Spork99

OM System OM-1

10/20/2005 06:49:00 PM · #4

Originally posted by Prof_Fate:

I'd never use spraymount, it's just too messy, gets on the front of prints, on the part of the mat you want to show, on your hands/fingers. Just YUCK.

gurlwithapen

Canon EOS-350D Rebel XT

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6

10/20/2005 06:59:53 PM · #5

you can make hinges that attach to the mount board....then later you can remove/change out the mat...not permanent. good for portfolios, though

cislander

Olympus E-3

Olympus 50-200mm f/2.8-3.5 ED Zuiko Digital

10/20/2005 07:28:50 PM · #6

I've been using 3M mounting spray for about a month now and have successfully mounted over 50 prints. Something I do when I print is to print an 11 X 14 on 12 X 18 paper (centered). This makes it easier to handle without touching the print or overspraying from the glue. It also gives me a place to put the name of the picture and signature.
The cheapest I've found the 3M mounting spray is at OfficeMax for 9.99. They'll deliver it off their website. I primarily print only 11 X 14 prints and one can will mount about 17 prints that size.
Good Luck
PS Your mat shouldn't be anywhere near your mounting board gluing setup. Attach it later. Of course once you've mounted the photo you really don't need to attach the mat anymore as the photo isn't loose.

Message edited by author 2005-10-20 19:29:51.

10/20/2005 07:42:31 PM · #7

Don't spray mount unless there is no other way... it's not an archival process.

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

10/20/2005 10:06:51 PM · #8

For those of you who say no to spray mount, what do you use? I want to mount my photos to matte the way mpix does so that they are stiff.

Message edited by author 2005-10-20 22:10:00.

adamweb

Canon EOS-6D

10/20/2005 10:10:11 PM · #9

Originally posted by eslaydog:

For those of you who say no to spray mount, what do you use?

dry mount tissue. if you don't have access to an oven press, use an iron or something (edit: but not directly on the pic ;P)

Message edited by author 2005-10-20 22:10:53.

10/20/2005 11:17:03 PM · #10

Originally posted by eslaydog:

For those of you who say no to spray mount, what do you use? I want to mount my photos to matte the way mpix does so that they are stiff.

The mpix stuff is done on a dry mount press.

Sony 24-70mm F4 Vario-Tessar T* FE OSS

10/20/2005 11:40:05 PM · #11

So if dry mount tissue is the answer, where can I get some? And where can I get this press?

Thanks for the help guys,
Eric
//www.eslayphotography.com

Prof_Fate

10/20/2005 11:41:53 PM · #12

I only started mounting because my 8x10s are wrinkling in the frames (card backing, glass front). I am open to other suggestions.

Also, from what (little) i've seen, wedding and Senior pics of 8x10 and larger are delivered mounted to matte/mount board - the ones i've seen appear glued. Again, if i am charging $25 to $30 for an 8x10, and not delivering it framed, I think it should be mounted - partly because i want my work, when displayed to stay flat and attractive.

As for archival, i am not a museum, and do not plan on being here in a 100 years. So what is the 'life expectancy' or side effects of using the 3M product? My thought would be yellowing of the print over time, but how long a time?

Bear_Music

Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra

10/21/2005 04:56:56 AM · #13

Originally posted by Prof_Fate:

I haven't used spray mount in a while, but way back when I could see the effects after 18 months or so, if the print hung where direct light could rwach it. Anyway I didn't do that for long, I got a dry mount press. I still have the press, but haven't used it in years. I hinge my prints to a backmount and then hold them down with a matte. It's the only system that's archival.

As for "being here in 100 years", YOU may not be but the IMAGES ought to be, especially if they are wedding shots that become family heirlooms :-)

Robt.

10/21/2005 10:59:00 AM · #14

So, how do we do it like MPIX? That is the new question! I want to have stiff prints! :)

E

10/21/2005 01:02:37 PM · #15

bizzump

Prof_Fate

10/21/2005 01:57:18 PM · #16

How does the drymount work - press? As in a stack of books, or like a printing press or does it use heat?

The 8x10 i had in question wa showing wrinkling in 3 weeks, in a fairly bright room with a north facing glass wall, but not (ever) in direct sunlight. The print was a Fuji machine print on their crystal archive paper from either walmart or winkflash.

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

10/22/2005 12:58:25 AM · #17

Wrinkling is most often caused by improper attachment the mat or back board. I see it frequently when the print is taped all the way around instead of being hinged. Temperature and humidity changes will cause the print to expand and contract inside the frame. If it isnt properly hinged, it will buckle inside the frame quite easily and frequently.

adamweb

Canon EOS-6D

10/22/2005 01:09:09 AM · #18

Originally posted by Prof_Fate:

How does the drymount work - press? As in a stack of books, or like a printing press or does it use heat?

It uses heat, two hot plates are closed together for a minute or so causing the tissue to form a permanent adhesive.

Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro

10/22/2005 01:11:49 AM · #19

Originally posted by eslaydog:

So, how do we do it like MPIX? That is the new question! I want to have stiff prints! :)

E

You can buy a dry mount press. I think the inexpensive smaller units start out at about $1000.

The process starts out by spreading a sheet or sheets of the dry mount adhesive out over a piece of backing material (3x or acid free 3x usually). You place your print on top of this and tack it lightly with a hand held heat iron to keep the print from slipping. The 'package' is then placed in the dry mount press where it is heated (it's actually a vacuum operation also on some machines) and permanently fixed to the backing. The temperature and the amount of time in the press depends on what is being mounted. Photographs take 2 minutes or so.. sometimes 3 minutes... After the heat press is complete, the excess backing material is trimmed off and you are finished. These dry mounted photos or prints usually need to cool under pressure (the weight of a couple sheets of glass) to keep them from bowing up as they cool.

Spork99

OM System OM-1

10/22/2005 02:59:08 AM · #20

Originally posted by Prof_Fate:

Also, from what (little) i've seen, wedding and Senior pics of 8x10 and larger are delivered mounted to matte/mount board - the ones i've seen appear glued. Again, if i am charging $25 to $30 for an 8x10, and not delivering it framed, I think it should be mounted - partly because i want my work, when displayed to stay flat and attractive.

As for archival, i am not a museum, and do not plan on being here in a 100 years. So what is the 'life expectancy' or side effects of using the 3M product? My thought would be yellowing of the print over time, but how long a time?

If you are selling your work, especially portraits, weddings or other once-in-a-lifetime event, it's just irresponsible to use a process (spray mount) that you know will degrade the product you give them.