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05/28/2003 12:00:03 PM · #1 |
hey guys n gals
im seriously thinking of buying a 602z. i wanna know if the quality in 6 mp mode are good. i dont want (cant afford) to buy this camera only to find i have to upgrade in a year. thanks for your help
neil |
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05/28/2003 12:13:41 PM · #2 |
I've had some of my prints print at 20x30 and they looked good. You can also look at my gallery and my pbase site, all have been shot in 6 mp mode.
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05/28/2003 12:17:44 PM · #3 |
Tragic,
Since you already have a great 2mp cam with a similar feature set, I don't think it would be worth your while to upgrade to a 3mp cam. Unless you really need it to get larger prints. Personally, I don't feel you would gain that much more with the extra mp.
I don't have a Fuji, but it's my understanding that the whole 6mp mode thing is nothing to get excited about. It's essentially a marketing ploy to make a great 3mp cam look a lot better. (6MP!) But in reality its just an interpolation of the 3mp info to fill in the blanks and get it up to the 6mp size. You can do the same thing with the photo resize command in any photo editor. |
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05/28/2003 12:17:45 PM · #4 |
| I clicked on the camera name, and it said 3.1 megapixels. How do you get 6? |
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05/28/2003 12:19:21 PM · #5 |
I also, am very pleased with the 6M mode. I only just started using that mode in the last 3 months or so.....
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05/28/2003 12:24:27 PM · #6 |
Originally posted by mcmurma:
I don't have a Fuji, but it's my understanding that the whole 6mp mode thing is nothing to get excited about. It's essentially a marketing ploy to make a great 3mp cam look a lot better. (6MP!) But in reality its just an interpolation of the 3mp info to fill in the blanks and get it up to the 6mp size. You can do the same thing with the photo resize command in any photo editor. |
My understanding of this camera is that the SHAPE of the sensors allow it to fit more of them in the same space. Therefore you have more individual sensors capturing info, which is different from what happen when you resize using software. I have looked at many different shots taken at 3 MP (resized) vs 6 MP (FUJI) and found that the fuji 6mp's are much better. I shoot in 3MP much of the time, but it is purely for storage reasons. I shoot in 6MP whenever I can, especially if I think I will want to print the shot.
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05/28/2003 12:25:33 PM · #7 |
If you biy it for less than $600 it is a great deal!
Or chek this one C5050
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05/28/2003 12:26:52 PM · #8 |
I've had excellent results at both 6M and 3M.
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05/28/2003 12:31:19 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by mariomel:
My understanding of this camera is that the SHAPE of the sensors allow it to fit more of them in the same space. Therefore you have more individual sensors capturing info, which is different from what happen when you resize using software... |
That's true. I believe the layout pattern of the Fuji sensor\pixel thingys is unique, and this would give it an edge (a slight one, imo) over a straight resize in photoshop. But 3mp is still 3mp, even if they print larger and look a little better than the next guys. That's all I'm saying. |
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05/28/2003 12:42:30 PM · #10 |
The 6mp (fine) mode on the 602z shows detail about the same as a 4mp camera according to most reviews and tests.
I personally think this camera should be treated as a very good 3mp camera.
I used to shoot in 6mp mode all the time and it`s the best mode for large prints, A4 prints no problem. People say also good to A3 but i`ve never seen any to judge.
Now i only shoot in 3mp (fine) mode because i rarely print over 8x10 and i find the pictures look sharper and the colours better. 6mp mode always looks a bit soft to me.
Anyway forget about the pixels its the features that make this camera great. It has most features of a DSLR and in some cases out performs a DSLR. How many DSLR`s can shoot 5 frames per second?
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05/28/2003 12:58:46 PM · #11 |
marbo is absolutely right. It's the fearture set of the S602 that make it stand out. Not only can it shoot 5fps, but also has a unique continuous mode that saves only the last 5 shots. For example, I captured my lightning shot for the complimetary colors using the last 5 mode. You hold the shutter down and it shoots continuously until you let go, then it saves the last 5 shots. I held the shutter until I saw the lighting then let go. Bingo! It was my first ever attempt at capturing lighting and I got it with little effort. You've got slow-synch flash, "Super" macro that lets you get as close as 1cm, the list goes on.
You add to that the 640x480 video at 30fps!!! You can capture video as good as some DV cameras that play full screen on your TV. The 6mp is just another of the features. For the price, it's hard to beat.
Message edited by author 2003-05-28 13:01:24.
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05/28/2003 01:25:10 PM · #12 |
I usually shoot in 6mp, except when I did Toasty, when I accidently left it in 3mp. I have a 20x16 print of this that looks superb : )
If the 6mp is a marketing ploy then someone needs to have a word with Fuji marketing - they advertise it as 3mp!
Think of it as a very good 3mp with a fantastic feature set and you won't go far wrong. For me, the only upgrade available (until Fuji come up with a true 6mp version) is to move up to DSLR.
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05/28/2003 01:42:24 PM · #13 |
Originally posted by bod:
If the 6mp is a marketing ploy then someone needs to have a word with Fuji marketing - they advertise it as 3mp!
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Well, it really wasn't Fuji I was referring to, but the resellers! About a year ago when I was looking at this camera, I saw more than one ad (Circuit City and Comp USA, I believe) that shamelessly listed the cam as a 6mp. If I remember correctly, the Comp USA ad didn't even list that the 6mp was interpolated in the fine print! As I recall, the price they had listed (for a 6mp cam) got me pretty excited for a few minutes until reality set in.
Message edited by author 2003-05-28 13:43:31. |
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05/28/2003 05:05:02 PM · #14 |
The SuperCCD pixel layout is diagonal, not horizontal. All available image algoritms like jpeg, bmp, tiff, psd, etc have a horizontal pixel mapping. The diagonal mapping of the Superccd cannot be viewed without it being converted to a horizontal mapping. So they fill the gaps with interpolated pixels and go from 3mp diagonal to 6mp horizontal.
When you put your camera in 3mp mode, the camera takes the 6mp horizontal and downsamples that one back to a 3mp horizontal.
The 6mp file is the most original file you can get from the 3mp SuperCCD. The 3mp output is a downsampled 6mp file where you already have lost some original information. It will always make a 6mp file first, except for ISO 800 and 1600 shots where three pixels are coupled to make one pixel output. BTW, a pixel on the CCD is called a photodiode, but that reads a lot worse. :)
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05/28/2003 05:24:59 PM · #15 |
I like the 602 for its overall speed and its broad range of use.
When you know the camera it can be adjusted to the situation very fast. Change WB, ISO, Aperture, exposure compensation, shutterspeed etc for a single shot. Count to 10 and I am done. There is nothing more unpleasent for a human subject than to wait till you are ready going trough deep menu's. Wildlife dissappears, the sun is gone, the special light effect is missed, the child has lost his smile.
And again speed, but this time the camera itself. Fast file flushing, good buffer, 5 frames per second, short shutter lag, good focus speed (except in bad light situations) etc. Great for sports, people and kids in action.
I also use it for long exposures in low light situations. Great results at ISO160, very clean, even at 10s. I shoot family, still and life nature, people at events, still subjects at events, motorcycle racing, sailing, parties, photojournalism, you name it. The speed, the 6x zoom, the possibility for an adapter with polarizer, the hotshoe (I fit a Sunpak 144PC Auto occasionaly with a Lumiquest Ultrasoft), the good position of the tripod mount, the slot for a Microdrive, the do-everything-manual-when-you-wish-to made and makes this the most usable allround camera for me.
And it runs on AA NiMh's for several hours. Three sets of batteries and a Microdrive gets me trough a day shooting all kinds of subjects.
I use 6mp soft and sharpen later (sharpening based on the specific output), print A5 to A4 size and am very happy with the prints from the photofinisher as well. The files have been used in books, lately also in papers. I don't hear any negative comments.
Sure, I know that quality wise a F707/717 can do a bit better at larger print sizes and the output from a EOS D30 and above is awesome in comparisson. The only upgrade I considers is a dSLR. The D7hi, G3, 5700 etc don't offer enough extra image quality, let alone features to pay the extra money for.
Try it out before you buy.
Message edited by author 2003-05-28 17:41:01.
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05/28/2003 07:05:29 PM · #16 |
when I was considering the purchase, I just looked at the top photos taken with it here - and am somewhat amzed now to find myself amongst them. What better advert would you want?
Sure, if you look at the 6MP files at 100% they're messy - but the quality at 70% of that is pretty outstanding - which equates to a 4.5-ish MP image.
Also consider, from a nonSLR digi: 1/10000 shutter speed, the last-five continuous mode, the PRICE, the super-macro, and the ergonomics ... in my book, there isn't a better deal on the market: until the 4th generation superCCD gets put into a similar machine.
Ed
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05/29/2003 02:40:20 AM · #17 |
| thanks for all the help guys n gals im thinking of upgrading because of the poor conditions of my cam in low light situations is this alot better? the other thing that im bothered about is what is the best way i can store pics i use smart media at the mo but i need more space i think i take around 300 pics a trip at the weekends so it may be worth my while to find a micro drive or compact flash any tips how many pics will fit on cards i cant find any reveiws |
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05/29/2003 02:56:02 AM · #18 |
It does have problems focusing in very low light. I have never really found it to be a problem but have heard of others who have. Depends what you're shooting and whether you can temporarily light it to grab focus I guess.
A 1GB Microdrive can hold about 440 6mp shots, or 840 at 3mp.
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05/29/2003 03:08:57 AM · #19 |
| thanks bod we get alot of low light up here in bolton uk lol when i say low light i mean i wanna take pics of buildings in the dark. ive seen your pics and i like the toaster one would i class that as low light |
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05/29/2003 03:27:15 AM · #20 |
Originally posted by tragicharpy:
thanks bod we get alot of low light up here in bolton uk lol when i say low light i mean i wanna take pics of buildings in the dark. ive seen your pics and i like the toaster one would i class that as low light |
Toasty wasn't really low light because the filaments provided plenty of contrast for the camera to focus on. If the buildings have a lit window you will be able to focus on that no problem, otherwise you can use landscape mode to focus on infinity, or try manual focus.
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05/29/2003 08:22:35 AM · #21 |
| Mine isnt 24 hours old I got alot of testing to do and reading? I love the feel of the camera and my stolen minolta was a 4mp but I cant tell the difference between the 2 as far as quality goes. But man this puppy has a ton of features that i gotta get used to before i attempt to shoot a wedding Saturday. |
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05/29/2003 08:27:09 AM · #22 |
Here are some links that may help you out. The first link is a Side-by-Side comparison tool so you can choose the 2800 & S602 and compare the differences:
//www.dpreview.com/reviews/sidebyside.asp
This second link is a very detailed and in-depth review of the S602 that is about 16 pages long (everything you need to know):
//www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujis602z/
Message edited by author 2003-05-29 08:35:38.
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05/29/2003 10:06:39 AM · #23 |
| any of you experienced users wanna give me some tips to prepare for this weekends wedding pictures? the whole thing is in a hall wedding reception and all. So I'm expecting low light. Any suggestions? |
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05/29/2003 10:22:03 AM · #24 |
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05/29/2003 10:23:34 AM · #25 |
Turn some lights off around your place - play with the shift/flash/scroll to get your white balances set - try shooting flash and non-flash (during practice) - try learning the shift+ commands - they help. Be fairly familiar with the way menus work - somethings like multi exposure are hard to figure out WHERE they are - and there are LOTS of rapid fire commands, etc.... practice IN low light with shutter, aperture and auto settings.
M
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