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04/25/2003 11:03:32 AM · #26 |
Yes, this is one advantage that G2 didn't have....
Originally posted by tyrkinn: About this RAW format issue, the G3 offers one great feature; you can take a shot in JPG format and if you think you got a great shot you can turn the shot into RAW file for a lossless capture (just make sure you do it before you take the next shot, see manual for how to). That way you can shoot in JPG and save the best shots in RAW. Great camera, the G3, no problems for me....yet... |
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04/25/2003 11:26:43 AM · #27 |
You can shoot sports with a G2/G3, but you do have to learn how to use the autofocus, which isn't wonderful. Certainly the D60 is better, but has similar issues.
Both have a contrast based autofocus, which works under the selected focus rectangle, only. I pretty much always have used the center focal point only, got a focus lock, then reframed. As this is a contrast based system, you want to place the rectangle over an area of strong contrast, at the distance you want to focus on. The center square works well on horizontal and vertical lines, while the side two tend only to work well in one direction ( I think it is vertical but can't remember, as I basically don't use them at all)
Often, I do this to get focus at a distance I want to work at and then click the manual focus button to lock in that range. People did sports photography before autofocus systems after all, and used this zone focusing approach. Basically you have to wait for what you want to shoot to get into the zone you've focused on, and also press the shutter early enough that it arrives in time - takes some practice! Particulary with the slower shutter speed response of most prosumer cams.
For macro shots I typically used a flourescent worklight to illuminate what I wanted to focus on and use the autofocus to lock, then again press manual focus to lock in the focus and work from there. Bright illumination certainly helps the contrast focus to lock successfully.
Some samples (although I'm pretty bad at sports shooting :) )
UT Football (G2)
Australian Rules Football (G2)
Danskin Triathlon (G2)
Australian Rules Footy (D60)
Message edited by author 2003-04-25 11:27:39. |
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04/25/2003 12:45:28 PM · #28 |
Originally posted by Journey:
How many pictures did you make before you had one worth keeping, if only for a couple of months? |
I guess I took about 200 pictures before I went on an actual "shoot" -- the first day I went out I took about 150 pictures and maybe 3 were worth keeping. I decided to make a "Scenes from San Diego" that day, just to give myself an objective for practicing.
I do calendars and notecards as gifts every Christmas and San Diego may end up the theme for the calendars this year -- there's enough good commercial ones out there with the standard shots, so my goal is to go for the unusual, something my friends in San Diego won't yawn at. That means 13 really good pictures.
Here's a few of the ones I'm keeping at this point -- though I really doubt any of these will end up on my calendar at the end of the year:
//dpchallenge.com/image.php?IMAGE_ID=19450
//dpchallenge.com/image.php?IMAGE_ID=19446
//dpchallenge.com/image.php?IMAGE_ID=19449
I figure I will probably end up shooting about 5000 pictures to get the 13 calendar photos.
The more I hang around this website, the better I hope to get -- this entire thread has really been invaluable, with many great tips on it.
Thanks, everyone!
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04/25/2003 03:41:43 PM · #29 |
Just wanted to say that on day 3 things are starting to click. It isn't raining and even nice sunshine on and off and the g3 is giving me the green light, so to speak. This thread has been so invaluable that i bookmarked it, so please post all your g3 woes, words of wisdom, pictures ?, and revelations here.
I'm off doing some shooting and hope to have a pleasant evening with photoshop tonight. My mood has improved tremendously :)
Thanks everyone for all your great input and help. Jimmythefish, thanks for your tips on Vancouver Island.
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04/26/2003 12:06:50 AM · #30 |
After having read Gordon's post a couple of times, i would like to post this pic from this afternoon. This horse was darting around, wanting to come close but my camera then scared it away. Meanwhile, i'm very slow at this point. Even though it's pretty snapshotty, it's a big improvement over what i was getting yesterday. Any feedback on how i could have done this better will be much appreciated. Part of the problem was that i was trespassing on a very nice property :) Tomorrow i'll go back there and hopefully the owners will be home so that i can ask their permission and feel at my leisure.

Message edited by author 2003-04-26 00:19:12. |
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04/26/2003 12:44:47 AM · #31 |
Wow, I never expected this. I was hoping to get a few replies. But I was able to get some great tips.
Here is one I want to throw out. For those who have a laptop with USB, try utilizing the Remote Capture application to help with the MACRO shots. First, plug in the USB cable to the camera and the laptop, then get the tripod, camera and flash systems set up. Now, ALL the settings can be controled by the software on the PC. No need to make changes on the camera, thus leaving the setup motion-free. Great for doing the macros, especially, which show any movement at all.
This camera, as I experiment with it, is getting more and more wonderfull. And, since I almost have the focus issue out of the way, it is getting easier.
Later all... Glad this thread is helping others besides myself.
Message edited by author 2003-04-26 11:23:29.
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04/28/2003 09:17:46 AM · #32 |
The above image was taken with my G3. This is a picture looking through the side rearview mirror in my car. I have tried this shot before (Photo on my portfolio on Photosig: Glaring Mistake) but I finally got the focus right. Notice the background and the image in the mirror: focused. Mirror housing, blurred. The focal-point for this picture is the yellow fire hydrant. I focus-locked on it, then centered the mirror's center and shot the photo. I have done no digital editing except for resizing. I used the C1 setting (I had already gone through and programmed it for bright sunlight and a few other things.) but used the spot focusing to get the focus most of the way there, and then manual focus to finished it up. After the focus was set, I locked it, centered the view and took the picture.
The link to the picture:
Through the Looking Glass
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