How To Mount A Print - DPChallenge Forums

03/16/2005 10:36:23 PM · #1

[removed this info in favor of the tutorial i linked later in this thread...]

I hope you find this helpful...

John Setzler

Message edited by author 2005-03-25 13:44:44.

eostyles

Canon EOS-400D Rebel XTi

03/16/2005 10:42:20 PM · #2

Do you think this is better than using the spray technique?

03/16/2005 10:44:35 PM · #3

Originally posted by eostyles:

Do you think this is better than using the spray technique?

Yes. Absolutely. I would never spray or dry mount a print. That is permanent. If you ever decide you want to change the print to a different frame or mount, you can't do it. That mounting technique works best for things like posters. I would never do it to a photograph... just my personal opinion though.

jenesis

Canon EOS-300D Rebel

Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II

03/16/2005 11:02:47 PM · #4

Thank you so much John!! This is exactly what I needed to know how to do. I'll be displaying some of my prints in a coffee shop in a couple of months and this is one of the things that I really needed to get on top of and learn how to do correctly. You must have been reading my mind. :-)

03/16/2005 11:12:16 PM · #5

If you have a print that is bowed from being rolled up, you can still use this technique. You should flatten the print out as much as possible before mounting it by putting it between two sheets of foamcore with some weight on top. When you put the mat and glass on it, that should be enough to keep it flat in the frame. Additional border area around the print helps this tremendously.

If you are buying printing from DPCPrints, its actually worth the extra cost to format your print to the next larger size with nothing but white around the print so you can cut it down with an added inch or so of border for mounting.

03/16/2005 11:29:58 PM · #6

Would you apply the 'no dry mount' to a print that is 12 X 72 inches? I have one I had printed and had the frame made. Not much of a chance that I will ever change the frame.

03/16/2005 11:35:20 PM · #7

Originally posted by kawesttex:

Would you apply the 'no dry mount' to a print that is 12 X 72 inches? I have one I had printed and had the frame made. Not much of a chance that I will ever change the frame.

Personally, I would not dry mount it. There are a few cases where I might consider it, but if you are going to mat it, i would not. I assume that you don't plan to mat this one since its 72" long. Mat board that size is difficult to come by.

From my experience, photographs do not dry mount very well. I have tried it on two different photos on two different types of paper. I did a 20x30 from EZPrints and a 12x18 that I printed myself on epson luster paper. I mounted both of them to acid free 3X and there are dimples from the dry mounting process that could not be avoided. They don't look very nice.

I'm curious how you plan to frame this one. Are you going to mat it? Are you going to use a backing board?

A print that large is going to be expensive to frame from the cost of the glass or plexiglass involved. Either way, you need spacers on the edge of the glass to keep the glass off the print. The print should not contact the glass.

03/16/2005 11:50:23 PM · #8

That,s the problem, matting for that size, so no matting and backing board is my option. The frame is already made out of oak and I have the plexiglass cut. The print has signs of rippling and I have no idea how to go about smoothing the print.

The frame cost me $65, plexiglass $45, and the print was $65. I didn't think that was to bad.

edited for the prices

Message edited by author 2005-03-17 00:16:47.

03/17/2005 12:34:43 AM · #9

Spray mounting may be your only option. Dunno what you are gonna mount it to tho... getting a board that long will be a problem.

03/17/2005 12:39:15 AM · #10

The only way I could think of is link two backer boards together with acid free tape. I don't think one splice would show.

Message edited by author 2005-03-17 00:39:33.

03/17/2005 12:40:20 AM · #11

I do have a second plexiglass. Do you think that would work?

03/17/2005 01:00:05 AM · #12

Originally posted by kawesttex:

I do have a second plexiglass. Do you think that would work?

No.. u need a continuous piece of plexi.. you are gonna need to shop around and find one... try //www.americanframe.com and see if they can provide you one that large...

peecee

Canon EOS-5D

Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM

03/17/2005 02:18:42 AM · #13

Very helpful John,
Thanks for posting,
Paul.

jpochard

Canon EOS-40D

03/17/2005 02:26:09 AM · #14

What about just using double sided tape? I have some that I've used for scrapbooking that is acid free.

Bear_Music

Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra

Sony 24-70mm F4 Vario-Tessar T* FE OSS

03/17/2005 03:03:05 AM · #15

Originally posted by jpochard:

What about just using double sided tape? I have some that I've used for scrapbooking that is acid free.

Too hard to get the print off cleanly after a couple years. A hinged approach is better, the print itself is never attached to the backing board.

Robt.

BobsterLobster

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro

Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II

03/17/2005 03:15:34 AM · #16

Thanks very much, I needed to know this.

Kavey

Canon EOS-400D Rebel XTi

Sigma 18-125mm f/3.5-5.6 DC for Canon

03/17/2005 06:15:22 AM · #17

Good timing, I was talking to Arpita about mattes and mounting in chat just yesterday! I don't think it's worth it for me to matte and frame my own stuff as I don't need to do enough of this to make it worth investing in the stuff I need. But it's good to know how.

I know you removed all your tutorials from the site but this would make a useful one to have added. Putting it in a thread means out of sight out of mind and a reliance on the somewhat temperamental search engine.

Node

Nikon D300

Tamron SP AF 17-35mm f/2.8-4 Di LD Aspherical IF for Nikon

03/17/2005 07:45:22 AM · #18

Originally posted by Kavey:

Here here, great tutorial. Thanks for taking the time. Again your timing was impeckable. I approached the owner of a soon to open historical restaraunt today with some of my local buildings and landscapes to see if she was willing to hang them and offer them for sale. The good news is she was delighted with them and does want to do it.

So I will be able to offer them in various forms, in tubes to take on their bus trip, matted and framed or mounted and sent direct to their residence.

So I needed to know this.

Bob

Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM

03/17/2005 05:51:26 PM · #19

I think I could do a tutorial on this subject in the future maybe. This particular method of mounting a print is a good one, but after thinking some more about it, I'm not sure that it's the best one. It does work fine most of the time, but I'm actually thinking that mounting the artwork to the back of the mat board would be better in the greater scheme of things. The technique of the hinge would not change, but the artwork would be simply fastened to the back of the mat board instead of the backing board.

I'll explain why later...

LindaLee

Canon EOS-40D

03/17/2005 07:54:38 PM · #20

I have only recently begun matting and framing photos, but from many years as an artist, matting my own work as well as paying professionals to mount/mat, it has always been considered best to hinge mount any works on paper, since most papers react to the environment, humiditiy, heat, cold, etc, in some way. Hinge mounting allows the paper some "flexibility".

03/17/2005 08:22:25 PM · #21

Originally posted by lhall:

Humidity and temperature does play an important role in this process. Nothing is more frustrating to me than when I assemble a print and it looks perfect, and when I hang it up, I notice in a few days that the print is buckling and not laying flat in the framing anymore. This is primarily caused by humidity and temperature changes. Proper framing technique can reduce the amount of humidity that gets inside the frame, but there isn't much you can do about the temperature fluctuations. In order to handle that, you need to mount and frame your artwork knowing that there will be some expansion and contraction going on inside the frame. I am working on a 'complete' guide to this process and hopefully will have it finished in a few days. It will show the proper techniques to accommodate temperature fluctuations within the frame.

03/17/2005 11:47:02 PM · #22

After some investigation, I do believe that hinging the print to the back of the mat board rather than the backing board is the best solution. I did a few experiments with it tonight and it does work best. My tutorial will be abandoning the idea of mounting the print to the back board material in favor of the mat board. More to come later...

Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM

03/21/2005 01:16:40 AM · #23

I think this covers about everything...

(edited out old URL)

Message edited by author 2005-03-21 09:07:54.

Kekiinani

Canon EOS-40D

03/21/2005 01:43:54 AM · #24

Thank you for the PDF file. I printed the previous post to follow and now the updated PDF version. This is excellent. Thank you for taking the time to write it.. :)