Protecting Your Prints - DPChallenge Forums

Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM

02/23/2005 11:01:56 PM · #1

Greetings...

I recently took a job in a local custom framing shop and I have learned a few things I thought I would pass along. Most of this stuff is common sense, but part of what I do is repair damaged prints and framing. I see stuff coming in every day that is put together improperly and the prints have lost a lot due to lack of care during assembly of the print/mat/frame. People bring framed artwork in to have changes made for various reasons. The most common reasons are to change a frame or the matting colors.

When I disassemble some of these prints, I see a lot of color fading on the print itself when I remove the original matting. There are two major contributors to this problem.

1. Light Damage (most common)
2. Framing not air tight

I see a lot of prints that have been printed with the best 'archival' printing methods available at the time faded to the point where "I" would throw it in the garbage. This fading has taken place inside of 5 years of display in some cases.

Protecting from light damage:

Light degradation of a print is the biggest problem I see. When you hang a print, there are two light sources that you need to avoid at all costs... sunlight and flourescent light tubes. Both of these light sources degrade prints in a hurry. UV filtering glass for your print can help reduce the effects of this. UV filtering glass is not that much more expensive than normal glass. It's worth the extra money if you want to keep the print in good shape for a long time. If you are a 'do-it-yourself' person, be sure to keep in mind that UV glass is only filtered on one side. The UV coated side goes to the INSIDE of the frame, not the outside. It's not always easy to figure out which side of the glass is coated, but you can tell because the UV filtering will scratch off. You can test it in a corner of your glass. A razor blade corner will scrape off the coating.

Making your print air tight:

When you assemble your matted print, place the glass on top of the print and then use acid free tape to seal the edges. (It's not necessary to use acid free tape unless you have used acid free matboard and backing material. All mat board and backing material such as 3x and foamcore is NOT acid free. You have to make sure you get archival quality materials before you get started if you want to take this extra step.) Sealing the glass/print/matting/backing will recude or eliminate any possible air flow between the mat boards and the print. This will help keep out airborne pollutants that can damage your print over time. When you put the glass/mat/print assembly into the frame, you need to put a dust cover on the back of the frame. I generally use a black craft paper that is specifically designed for this purpose. This paper is fastened to the back of the frame with an adhesive tape that is also acid free. This dust cover also helps, but does not completely prevent, air flow into the frame.

Avoid metal framing for archival quality framing projects. There is no easy or simple way to put a dust cover on most metal framing. Metal frames are more commonly used for poster type images that have been dry mounted.

Mounting your print:

The correct way to 'mount' a print to your backing material is to form a 'hinge' on the top edge of the print only. You will use an acid free tape. You will apply two or three short strips perpindicular to the top edge of your print where you have about 1" or so above the top. The adhesive edge will attach to the BACK of the print, never the front. You will use a couple extra pieces of this adhesive to form a T to fasten the print to the backing. The mat is NOT glued or taped to the backing in any way. If you have double or triple matting, you should fasten those mat pieces together with an acid free double sided tape adhesive of your choice. It is not necessary to fasten the mat to the backing. The print will stay together when put in the framing.

I may put together a photo tutorial of how this is done at some point. I haven't had a chance to do that yet...

oksamit

Canon EOS-30D

02/23/2005 11:11:26 PM · #2

Thank you ........................

smellyfish1002

Canon EOS-20D

Canon EF 70-200mm f/4.0L USM

02/23/2005 11:19:43 PM · #3

Hello John,
There is nothing like doing it to learn it best!! Last year, I had to frame 10 prints for an exhibition. I was floored at the cost to have it done commercially (no offense intended). I bought a pro level mat cutter and all the supplies for half of what it was going to cost. I also have a woodshop and do woodworking, so I made all of my own frames out of Maple, Rosewood, Purpleheart, and other domestic and exotic hardwoods. I can't believe how much satisfaction I had to know I did the entire process, from taking the photos, printing them, making the frames and assembling the whole package.
I think it is great that you have made this post! This is very valuable information, that I don't really see discussed very often. Kudos to you!
JD

Neil

Fujifilm X-T30

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED

02/23/2005 11:20:42 PM · #4

Thanks John. Yes, some photos would help. I've done a few of my own frames purchased from americanframe.com, and the only part that doesn't click with me below is the taping to 'seal' the air out. I am not sure I understand your instructions there.

Also, what are your thoughts on plexiglass versus glass. Americanframe.com only sells plexiglass, but you can get it in UV coated (I don't know if your scratch rule applies to that.)

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED

02/23/2005 11:29:55 PM · #5

Originally posted by nshapiro:

I don't care for plexiglass. It's very difficult to clean. If you use an ammonia based glass cleaner (like Windex) it will cause the plexi to 'fog'. You have to use some sort of ammonia free cleaner on it. Plexi also scratches MUCH easier than regular glass, so cleaning it requires special attention.

Plexi is not used very often in custom framing unless its a very large piece. I have done one so far, and it was a map that was about 40x60. Glass that size is actually dangerous to handle and it's quite heavy also. I don't know anything about UV plexi yet. I have not been exposed to it.

The 'sealing' is simpler than it sounds. You have a 'stack' of glass, matting, your print, and backing. You simply tape the edges. You would want about 1/16" on top of the glass. The rest would wrap around the side and the back. You trim off the excess at the corners with a razor blade.

Neil

Fujifilm X-T30

02/23/2005 11:49:35 PM · #6

Originally posted by jmsetzler:

...snip...

I don't know anything about UV plexi yet. I have not been exposed to it.
...snip...

Very funny, whether intended or not ;)

I bought some cleaner with the plexi from americanframe. "Warps Antistatic Acrylic Cleaner and polish". The frames I've done so far in plexi all look great. I just sent someone a gift of one of my photos I uploaded and had printed and framed at art.com; it wasn't too expensive and as I recall, I put UV glass from them But it's still more expensive than doing it yourself at americanframe.com.

Thanks again...

nsbca7

Mattel Barbie Photo Designer Digital Camera

02/23/2005 11:52:16 PM · #7

Originally posted by nshapiro:

Plexiglass is very common on anything that needs to travel. Almost any exhibition that you might go to that is on tour will have the majority of their framed pieces done in U/V acrylic. Any art work you need to ship should be done in plexiglass.

Mattel Barbie Photo Designer Digital Camera

02/24/2005 01:50:17 AM · #8

The shop I'm working in doesn't even keep plexi in stock. We sell so little of it that it's just not worthwhile to keep it on hand. I do understand the issues with shipping it and the weight factor.

One of the interesting benefits I get from working in this shop is that I get to keep 'leftovers' from repair and replacement work. When a customer buys a new frame and new glass, I get to keep the old stuff if they don't want it back for some reason. I have collected several frames already and today, I got two 20x24 pieces of the museum grade non-glare glass. This stuff is quite interesting. I may try it out, but i'm not sure I would actually recommend it to anyone for normal use. This stuff actually makes your images darker than they would appear normally through normal or UV glass. The glass almost appears to be etched or 'smoked'. When you look at things through this glass, it looks like a heavy guassian blur unless the artwork is right on the glass (which it would be in a frame). The light dispersion through this glass is very low.

nsbca7

02/24/2005 01:57:41 AM · #9

Originally posted by jmsetzler:

This shouldn't be a problem. Print with the characteristics of the glass in mind. Go a little lighter with slightly higher contrast.

Ozzie

Nikon D90

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm f/4G ED VR

02/24/2005 08:28:14 PM · #10

Thanks for that useful information re the sealing/framing of prints. I have been wondering about buying a mat cutter etc. as it can get pricey having it done at some framing shop, esp, when I do small watercolours.

02/24/2005 09:54:49 PM · #11

I made a few photos today of the 'process'. I'll try to get them up later.