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12/12/2004 01:12:40 AM · #1 |
Can anyone recommend a tried and true way for obtaining accurate skin color in portraits. I've really been struggling and trying several different methods in Photoshop CS only to make my pics look worse (My monitor has been calibrated and I shoot in raw)
They start off very pink, see these pics (no color correction):
//yours.smugmug.com/gallery/291728/1/11595359
Using curves in cmyk mode to make Y > M and C 25-50% of M made them ashy, see these:
//yours.smugmug.com/gallery/314554/1/12516976
And, well using a color balance layer, isn't consistent and still not quite right, see these:
//yours.smugmug.com/gallery/307331/1/12515459
I read and tried the DPC's color cast tutoral and well skin tone is just such a subtle thing it really didn't work.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. These folks want their pics before the holidays and I've got to get them printed soon! |
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12/12/2004 01:37:47 AM · #2 |
Actually I think they look pretty good. The kids in the red sweaters look pink because they probably ARE pink, which makes it tough to know where to go. Redheads with red sweaters on. Some of them are a tad underexposed (which is better than overexposed for skin tone) and increasing the contrast might work a bit. Adjusting colour temperature beforehand isn't cutting it? The last set seems a bit blue.
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12/12/2004 02:37:51 AM · #3 |
Hi Les,
Color correction is a pain. Using curves and such to correct color is very tricky business, but shooting RAW should make things easier. If you get a good white/grey point, color temp selection (or whatever you need to call it) before the conversion, you should be pretty darn close. Or you can always use a neutral to establish a custom WB setting before you shoot.
The background you are using looks pretty neutral, but without seeing it, it's hard to be sure. If it is, try taking a custom WB point off of that before shooting. Or you use it to get a neutral starting point for your RAW converter.
If this isn't making sense I'll be happy to explain in more detail.
Which RAW converter are you using? CS? |
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12/12/2004 03:22:02 AM · #4 |
Bruce Fraser has written an excellent book I am in the middle of at this time.
Starting off in RAW, use the eyedropper (White balance) and look for a neutral grey area (190, 190, 190-close as you can get) that shows at the bottom right of the preview area and click on it. A better way is to WB your camera before. I bought WhiBal Cards or a neutral 18% grey card you can get at your camera store (pure white foam board works well too) to set the WB. Either prior to shooting or include it in a first test shot (better before-less work). By the way that WhiBal site has great info also. I usually WB the camera and also do a test shot, to make sure (I can use the many different methods this way). ACR (Adobe Camera RAW) is probably the best way to do it since you can output the file as 16 bit, also. ACR allows you to Calibrate also. There are Profiles already in it for your camera, but Bruce Fraser recc that you do your own...if you have a Greytag Macbeth card (need one of those). I think this book will do you tons of good. Is helping me for sure!
If you want to WB after RAW...use the Color sampler eyedropper. Start with a Threshold layer and adjust it till an area for the highlights shows up (all the way to the right and slowly back to the left-vice versa for Black)...Hit that area with the color sampler. Then same for black. Trash the Threshold layer. Now finding a neutral grey for the third sample. Have the Info box visible and you will see these 3 samples with 2 sets of numbers...before and after any adjustments. Open Levels and adjust each seperately-- R, G, B for the white highlights first (making them all match the same number). Then the Blacks/Shadows, all same numbers. You can save this as levels.alv if you have a bunch to do and write an action for it. Now go to Curves. Average out all the ORIGINAL numbers on the left in the 3rd Info box color sample. Go through the R, G, B again and click a point and enter the ORIGINAL number in the Input and then the AVERAGED number in the Output. SOmetimes you have to bump ths number up or down a bit for it to reach the Averaged Output number. Again you can save this as curves.acv to run on a Batch. That should neutralize everything.
There are easier ways, also like the Adjustment/Match Color and then hit the neutralize button and adjust the slider to your preference, but it is not as "perfect."
Oh yes!! Using the Auto WB will get you almost spot on 90% of the time. The thing with portraits is, you want it to stay at the same level throughout. It could jump around a tiny touch and if you Batch to color correct, it gives odd results.
Another book to look into...How to Photograph Women
Message edited by author 2004-12-12 03:28:03.
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12/12/2004 08:22:34 AM · #5 |
For studio work, where your lighting is fairly consistent for large sets of shots, shooting a reference image with the subject holding a Gretag Macbeth Color Checker can help considerably. Make all necessary color corrections (to your satisfaction, including white balance) with the reference image, then apply the same changes to other images in the set. This is much easier when working with RAW images.
If you're going to do calibration in ACR, make note that doing so for different lighting conditions works best (for the pedantic, you can also do so for each lens). The ACR Calibrator script by Thomas Fors will help immensely with the calibration process (but be patient with this script).
I see your images are posted on smugmug so I presume this is where they'll be printed too. In that case, don't work too hard on getting things right as their lab (printing provider) gives unpredictable and inconsistent results. If color fidelity is important to you, I'd recommend developing a good working relationship with a local lab (some online entites, like WCI are also good in this respect). |
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12/12/2004 11:15:03 AM · #6 |
| Wow, thank you for the excellent info. I did discover the magic of custom white balance after these shoots and it made a big difference. I think part of the problem is the actual skin tone of the subjects :) some were red and some very pale to start with. I'm very, very new to this and learning as I go, so I really appreciate your help. Thanks! |
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12/12/2004 11:20:41 AM · #7 |
Another trick I have found works. Find an area that is white (in a portrait, the whites of the eyes work great) and white-balance on that. Generally if you can get the whites of the eyes white, everything else will fall into place.
Of course, this is no substitute for getting a proper white balance out-of-camera, but will help you save a shot where, for whatever reason, that didn't happen.
-Terry
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12/12/2004 05:13:56 PM · #8 |
dwoolridge-I have tried to use the damn ACR calibrator over and over. When it is all done....all I end up with is WB, Tint, Exp., Shadows, Brightness, Contrast and saturation (I can get these settings in a few minutes not hours). Is it suppose to give me any color settings in the Calibration area? It never shows that, even though I have watched it tagging the RGB areaas. Even redownloaded the script.
Message edited by author 2004-12-12 17:30:24.
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12/12/2004 11:23:49 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by dacrazyrn:
dwoolridge-I have tried to use the damn ACR calibrator over and over. When it is all done....all I end up with is WB, Tint, Exp., Shadows, Brightness, Contrast and saturation (I can get these settings in a few minutes not hours). Is it suppose to give me any color settings in the Calibration area? It never shows that, even though I have watched it tagging the RGB areaas. Even redownloaded the script. |
Yes, it's supposed to give values for the Calibration tab (in fact, the only ones of use when the script is done, except for WB perhaps). I've run it several times and I've ended up with Calibration data each time.
If you want to pin down the first bunch of calcs, apply the wb/sat/shad/tint/etc. values to your calibration image, then modify the script to not do any calcs for them. Specifically, search for the string "Perform calibration" and comment out the five lines that follow. At least then you can see what's going on during the RGB stages.
If you send me (or provide a link somewhere for me to d/l) your target, I'll have a run through to see what happens on my end. |
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