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08/06/2004 11:41:01 PM · #1 |
How do I correct something like this after the image has been taken, what processing methods would you recommend? I took a few today and the sky was so nice and cloudy, but all the images turned out with white sky. Should I have used a polarizer, would that have helped? Here is an example, I want it to have a 'real sky' look... suggestions?
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08/06/2004 11:44:02 PM · #2 |
Originally posted by aerogurl:
Should I have used a polarizer, would that have helped? Here is an example, I want it to have a 'real sky' look... suggestions?
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If it's overexposed to the point where it's clipped like this photo, then you can't recover it in post. A polarizer might have helped a tiny bit, but this is a classic symptom of the camera metering for the foreground. The best way to correct this is to stop down while shooting.
Message edited by author 2004-08-06 23:44:15.
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08/06/2004 11:46:49 PM · #3 |
Originally posted by wwwavenger:
Originally posted by aerogurl:
Should I have used a polarizer, would that have helped? Here is an example, I want it to have a 'real sky' look... suggestions?
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If it's overexposed to the point where it's clipped like this photo, then you can't recover it in post. A polarizer might have helped a tiny bit, but this is a classic symptom of the camera metering for the foreground. The best way to correct this is to stop down while shooting. |
How to stop down on the 300D?
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08/06/2004 11:47:11 PM · #4 |
Stopping down would have just darkened the foreground to the point of underexposure by the time the sky came back into existence. This is an 'impossible' shot as is. It would have taken layering two different exposures to make this work most likely.
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08/06/2004 11:49:22 PM · #5 |
Originally posted by jmlelii:
How to stop down on the 300D? |
There's a button next to the LCD labeled Av+/-. Hold it down while turning the dial next to the shutter release.
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08/06/2004 11:52:48 PM · #6 |
Originally posted by wwwavenger:
Originally posted by jmlelii:
How to stop down on the 300D? |
There's a button next to the LCD labeled Av+/-. Hold it down while turning the dial next to the shutter release. |
ahh yes the exposure comensation button.
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08/06/2004 11:54:49 PM · #7 |
| Select the background and drop in a nice-looking sky? |
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08/07/2004 12:04:25 AM · #8 |
Originally posted by jmlelii:
Originally posted by wwwavenger:
[quote=aerogurl]Should I have used a polarizer, would that have helped? Here is an example, I want it to have a 'real sky' look... suggestions?
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If it's overexposed to the point where it's clipped like this photo, then you can't recover it in post. A polarizer might have helped a tiny bit, but this is a classic symptom of the camera metering for the foreground. The best way to correct this is to stop down while shooting. |
Hmmm. I may be in the old school but "stopping down" has nothing to do with exposure. It is merely changing the aperture to a higher number. That is is you were shooting at f 5.6, you would stop down by shooting at f8 or f11. Granted, if you did not also change the shutter speed, you would also decrease the exposure, but that is typically not what is meant by stopping down.
For this image, there is probably too great a tonal range, too many f-stops between the background sky and foregrond trees. So - the way to re-shoot it is to take one shot where the sky is properly exposed and another where the foreground trees are properly exposed. Then combine the images by using layers in your editimg program. (But not for DPC challenge entries since there are now two images involved.)
-T- |
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08/07/2004 12:06:12 AM · #9 |
There isn't much hope after the fact. A polarizer can help sometimes when the sky lacks definition, but when the sky is just bright white overcast blaah, not much you can do but do as the General said. Here is one I did this week that way. It dosen't look right but at least it's not blech.
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08/07/2004 12:07:25 AM · #10 |
Originally posted by GeneralE:
Select the background and drop in a nice-looking sky? |
Sounds easy enough, but really isn't easy at all to get realistic looking results.
You really just need to shoot this again when the sky and the foreground are closer in value so that you can get a reasonable exposure on the foreground without blowing out the sky.
Message edited by author 2004-08-07 00:08:30.
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08/07/2004 02:24:11 AM · #11 |
shooting up into the sky is the most difficult thing for me, i have
tried all settings, especially with the vanishing point challenge,
is there an answer?
for overcast days and for especially bright days?
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08/07/2004 02:35:39 AM · #12 |
Originally posted by goodman:
is there an answer? |
Not really...when the tonal range is that great, sometimes you just can't get it all correctly exposed. Overcast days you shouldn't have near as much trouble. shooting in the early morning or later afternoon will help also. If you must shoot during the day, a polarizer is OK, but a graduated ND filter is best. it's basically a Neutral density filter that is darker at the top than at the bottom...so it filters out light from the sky, but lets it through to correctly expose the landscape.
Here is a decent article about it.
P |
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08/07/2004 02:49:27 AM · #13 |
This was shot at around 7:30pm about an hour before sunset and all my photos turned out this way. I wish I could show the whole photos but these shots are for the current challenge. There was nothing in the sky today, no clouds, just white, but my question is, how can I reshoot this and keep the colour of the sky blue or if there are a few clouds, how can I make sure they show up. I havent had this camera but 6 months and I am still learning about all the settings and how to use them. I want to reshoot this tomorrow. When should I do it, later than 7pm? and what settings should I use to insure that the sky shows. I love these beatiuful skies of Heida's and other members.. so purple or blue or dark and mysterious.. the skies here Never look like that!! and I can't 'burn' a white sky in PSP, I need something there to work with. Any recommendations on settings? I do not have a DSLR so my settings are probably different than most users, here is my camera: Fuji S5000 I do have a telephoto, wideangle lenses & polarizer, UV, and FL filters. Should I try using exposure compensation? Should I press the shutter halfway and focus on the sky then reset the image in the viewfinder before taking it? ANY help will be apprecaited! :o)
p.s. also, what is 'Stop Down' and does my camera have it?
Message edited by author 2004-08-07 02:50:50.
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08/07/2004 02:59:47 AM · #14 |
early morning may be a better option if it gets the sun behind you.
In either case, you're best to underexpose a little, and then try to cheap the shadows back to life in your editor. If you overexpose, you'll never get the detail back. 'Stopping down' as people are referencing it here just means to intentionally underexpose it a bit (your camera has exposure compensation; it's the +/- symbol...set it to -.5EV or -1.0EV).
Clouds would/should provide enough contrast for your cam to pick up the detail.
Also, use the 'average' mode to meter the shot...it will try to balance the scene to correctly expose more of the entire frame.
hope that helps.
P |
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08/07/2004 03:04:49 AM · #15 |
It probably wouldn't work too well for the shot you posted, but you might also try a graduated neutral density filter for shots where the horizon is fairly straight.
If you don't mind setting up a tripod, you can bracket (one shot that exposes for the sky, and one that exposes for the foreground). You should then be able to take both images into your favourite photo editor and combine them. |
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08/07/2004 03:10:45 AM · #16 |
Originally posted by VisiBlanco:
It probably wouldn't work too well for the shot you posted, but you might also try a graduated neutral density filter for shots where the horizon is fairly straight.
If you don't mind setting up a tripod, you can bracket (one shot that exposes for the sky, and one that exposes for the foreground). You should then be able to take both images into your favourite photo editor and combine them. |
you're absolutely right about the level horizon thing.
a little side note; you can't use multiple images for a challenge, even in advanced editing, so the bracketing method (which is the best solution) won't work in this case.
P |
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08/07/2004 03:26:42 AM · #17 |
I shoot with a polarizer in place more often than not, so you can assume that I'm rather bias towards them. That's not to say that they can save a flat, bland, white or grey sky mind you, but they can certainly help when there's some color to be found. Shooting early or late, depending on which direction your subject's situated is probably one of the best solutions. Bracketing, as mentioned above, too, is a wonderful technique. Taking that a step further into post-production, don't try to erase the sky out of one layer to expose the layer beneath; spend some time getting up close & personal with both layer masks and the quick mask tools! So long as you're starting with a good, high-res shot, these can be life savers!
* standard mild humor disclaimer: most of the cool stuff in Photoshop will rule out any contest entries. ::grin:: Use at your own risk.
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08/07/2004 01:08:02 PM · #18 |
great. thanks for the suggestions, gonna try it again tonight at sunset :)
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08/07/2004 01:21:11 PM · #19 |
I've noticed if I just tilt my camera slightly down or in a certain angle..I am able to see the sky clearly and still get the picture I was trying to achieve. Just a thought.
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08/07/2004 02:02:36 PM · #20 |
Originally posted by aerogurl:
How do I correct something like this after the image has been taken, what processing methods would you recommend? I took a few today and the sky was so nice and cloudy, but all the images turned out with white sky. Should I have used a polarizer, would that have helped? Here is an example, I want it to have a 'real sky' look... suggestions?
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I'm afraid there is little you can do with this photo because the sky is overexposed. The best way to photograph this is to meter off the sky and adjust for the trees in PP. Here is a example I just did from my front yard. Nothing artistic here, just similar conditions.
Message edited by author 2004-08-07 15:37:43.
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