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08/03/2004 11:10:10 PM · #1 |
| I am really confused! I have been working with my newly bought 50mm f/1.8 II lens (Canon) I can't understand why some of my pictures are really blurry even with a tripod. Some of the pictures look really blurry around the edges and some are completly washed out! Most of the shots are taken outside. I am using Aperture Mode on my Rebel 300D. What am I doing wrong? |
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08/03/2004 11:11:15 PM · #2 |
| post an example and exif from that example? |
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08/03/2004 11:11:42 PM · #3 |
What aperature are you using?
Message edited by author 2004-08-03 23:11:52. |
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08/03/2004 11:14:23 PM · #4 |
Are you using the self-timer or a remote?
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08/03/2004 11:16:53 PM · #5 |
| I am using f/1.8 and not using self-timer or the remote. |
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08/03/2004 11:19:47 PM · #6 |
Try using the lens two stops above f/1.8. I am sure you will see a big improvement.
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08/03/2004 11:21:59 PM · #7 |
| Definitely, shooting at F/1.8 is not something you would want as your working aperature. Use it creatively and when you need to but usually you will want to stop down some. |
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08/03/2004 11:24:04 PM · #8 |
To get real help, please post a shot. Without an example, we can only guess. If you are using 1.8 & the shots are coming out washed up, try using a larger F stop to cut out the amount of light.
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08/04/2004 12:37:18 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by toddnicholsphotography:
I am using f/1.8 and not using self-timer or the remote. |
Shutter speed is what you want to watch. At 1/250 or faster, in good light on a stationary subject, shots should come out sharp without self-timer/remote. A heron, for example, flies sharp at about 1/640 sec, a crow between 1/800 and 1/1000, a hummingbird, well, 1/3000 or thereabouts.
Below 1/250, if you press the shutter button, camera shake will or might show. When my camera is mounted on a tripod, I don't touch the shutter button - period. For long exposures (waterfalls, poor light and night shots) I lock the mirror as well.
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08/04/2004 01:08:24 PM · #10 |
Originally posted by zeuszen:
[quote=toddnicholsphotography]
Below 1/250, if you press the shutter button, camera shake will or might show. |
I was always of the understanding that below the 1/60 second
threshold was where most cannot hold steady enough to prevent
camera shake.
Once in a while, we get lucky,
as was the case in this shot:
Hand-held at 1/20 sec.
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08/04/2004 04:06:14 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by BradP:
Originally posted by zeuszen:
[quote=toddnicholsphotography]
Below 1/250, if you press the shutter button, camera shake will or might show. |
I was always of the understanding that below the 1/60 second
threshold was where most cannot hold steady enough to prevent
camera shake. |
I'd roughly agree with this, under ideal conditions. I have found the shutter action on my 10D to cause quite a bit of vibration on its own and prefer a consistently good result to a less predictable one.
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08/04/2004 04:10:23 PM · #12 |
The speed you can successfully hand hold at is related to the effective focal length of the lens - so in 35mm terms, you can roughly handhold a x mm lens at 1/x s shutterspeed or faster -
100mm lens, 1/125s or faster, 200mm lens, 1/250s or faster, 20mm lens, 1/20s or faster and so on. As a rule of thumb it works quite well - you can certainly occasionally get away with slower speeds, and in most cases I want to use double the suggested speed to get really sharp prints, for enlargements, but it loosely holds.
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