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11/08/2004 03:38:42 PM · #26 |
Originally posted by PaulMdx: Originally posted by hopper: Shutter Lag - not an issue on DSLR's |
For the huge majority of cases you're right, it makes no difference..
That said, the 20D is very quick compared to the 10D, 300D and D70. A delay of 65ms brings it alongside the 1D mkII in terms of responsiveness. |
I shot a D60, 20D and 1D mkII side by side for a couple of hours, thanks to a kind Canon dealer who was trying to ensnare me with his wares.
The 20D is slightly more responsive than the D60, but absolutely nowhere near the 1DII in terms of shutter lag or overall feel, at least from my viewpoint.
If I was looking to buy a mid-ranged camera, I'd get a 20D or a D70. Doubt I'd consider many of the other ranges, just for lens choice and overall support (software/ accessories/ aftermarket servicing etc)
I wouldn't personally bother looking at the Canon 300D, 10D or the Nikon
D100. In general, the 10D and D100 are surpassed by the replacements and the 300D is a poor second to the 20D, for a lot of previously discussed reasons. If the differences are things you don't care about then I'm sure the 300D is a great camera. For my use it isn't. Again should be dictated by what you want to do with it.
Then it comes down to which range, Canon or Nikon has the lenses you want now and in the future, which is quite dependant on what kinds of photography you want to do. In actual fact, the glass should be the first concern and the body second. (as I think has been well stated already) The bodies (even the expensive ones) are a whole lot cheaper than what you should spend for decent quality glass. I made the mistake a couple of times of skimping on lens purchases and have been nothing but disappointed with the output of the cheaper options.
Message edited by author 2004-11-08 15:43:16.
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11/08/2004 03:38:43 PM · #27 |
Originally posted by Imagineer:
1. Image quality
2. Cost:
> body (plus recommended 'standard' lens and a wide-angle)
> any package (with lens)
3. Performance:
> Shutter lag
> Speed of recording/CF access
> Metering
4. Versatility
5. Battery/reliability, etc.
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I have Canon 300D, had it for around 6 months now.
Answering your questions.
1. Good
2. Go to B&H or something.
3. >shutter lag - non or very litle
>speed of recording - rather slow when shooting RAW, ok when JPEG
>metering - only centerweighted average (anoying sometimes but you´ll learn to live with it)
4. Not quite sure what you mean but I like it pretty much. It´s bigger and heavier than compact and not as easely caried around everywhere you go, still it´s not much of a problem.
5. Very good. Last for upto 4-500 shots with minimum use of the LCD. |
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11/08/2004 03:59:47 PM · #28 |
Thanks again. Looks like the 20D fits my criteria so far. |
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11/08/2004 04:00:55 PM · #29 |
Originally posted by Imagineer: Thanks again. Looks like the 20D fits my criteria so far. |
Think that´s a good choice. |
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11/08/2004 04:36:06 PM · #30 |
Originally posted by jonr: On the chance of being flamed... :)
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Don't worry, I got your back (-:
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11/08/2004 05:27:54 PM · #31 |
Originally posted by ajschmidt: I teach photography at SFSU and work full time for the AP.
In all truth, it takes a doubling of pixels to approach a useful change between your 5mp and a dslr. Yes, lens selection will help, but not much. I have owned and used almost every DSLR on the market, and I can only recommend, with 100% certainty of no complaints, three cameras. The Canon D1s Mark II, Nikon D2x, and the Hasselblad H1D. All three are between 4-8-20K plus glass. I must say it, everything else is a compromise, and your better off with a 35mm slr and great glass. Most DSLR complaints are due to poor quality glass.
I would actually recommend that you go out and buy a 35MM Canon EOS Rebel GII 35mm SLR Autofocus Camera Body for about $150, and then buy GLASS. Only Great Glass. F2.8 or faster Glass only.
I stress the Lens end of the equation because that is all that matters in the slr world. You will change out the body every 2-3 years, but great glass will last a lifetime. The lens is the investment, the body is the inconvenience. You will be so happy with the image quality of a 35mm and having kodak give you digital files. Camera $150 + Lens EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM $1000 = $1200 tax + shipping. Then in two years when cannon comes out with a 30 million pixel wizz bang DSLR you will only have to buy the body. See, the DSLR makes sense to the professional photographer because they have the glass to start out with.
IF YOU MUST BUY RIGHT NOW:
If price is first on your list, the Nikon D70 6MP kit will give you the best image and performance in the sub $1500 range of total cost. Don't get me wrong, the Canon eos-300 is ok, but the kit glass, I was horrified of breaking the thing putting on a new lens. The big problem is that you will not be adding any printed advantage over your sony. You will only gain performance and lens features.
If you can go higher in cost, you have one option. The new Canon D20 8MP DSLR back + a EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM Autofocus Lens. About $2500. The problem with SLR cameras in the consumer market is that people pay so much for the back, that they are willing to buy very cheap glass ( 80-300mm F8 zoom for $200). Here you can grow your glass collection with a gain in visual quality over your sony. The only bad news is that you will be limited on your lens selection due to the cost of the DSLR body, but you will still be on your way to a great lens package. The 24-70 f2.8 is a great lens, and will rival prime (non-zoom) lenses in the same focal length.
Adam |
Adam...great advice, appreciate you sharing your experience. Hope your words are read and pondered.
Shot marginal glass for years (f/3.5-f/5.6), never realized how much of an upgrade a Nikkor 17-35 f/2.8 really was. Quickly became my favorite. Also works on my film bodies as well. Many seasoned veterans on this site mention the importance of building a sound lens stable, but often it gets marginalized during the cost stage of body purchases.
Great advice indeed. |
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11/09/2004 02:01:26 AM · #32 |
Originally posted by e301: Originally posted by Azrifel: The S3 is too freaking expensive for such a crap body. |
You've used one? Where/when did you get it? I'm intrigued frstly because I thought it was very very new, if in the shops at all, and secondly because the guide prices I've seen aren't what one would call expensive for a DSLR.
E |
It is still based on the Nikon F80 body and Nikon Multi-Cam 900 AF module, lower flash sync, low continious speed. That is one big step behind new Nikon (D2 series and D70 are new bodies, D2x and D2h = Multi-Cam 2000, the D70 also uses the 900 module, it ain't bad but it ain't pro) and Canon cameras (new bodies, improved AF). You'd expect that a new pro body with a new 'revolutionary sensor' at this pricepoint (in Europe still way above the 20D) would get some better stuff in it or be priced a bit lower.
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11/09/2004 08:31:58 AM · #33 |
Originally posted by Azrifel: It is still based on the Nikon F80 body and Nikon Multi-Cam 900 AF module, lower flash sync, low continious speed. That is one big step behind new Nikon (D2 series and D70 are new bodies, D2x and D2h = Multi-Cam 2000, the D70 also uses the 900 module, it ain't bad but it ain't pro) and Canon cameras (new bodies, improved AF). You'd expect that a new pro body with a new 'revolutionary sensor' at this pricepoint (in Europe still way above the 20D) would get some better stuff in it or be priced a bit lower. |
Even with the comparatively out-dated body the improvements in dynamic range and the larger image files will be attractive to some photogs, pros among them. The S2 was widely recognized as a fine cam, S3 should get the benefit of the doubt until it's tested. |
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