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DPChallenge Forums >> Photography Discussion >> Full Frame Digital Images for $250...No EOS-1Ds
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10/21/2004 12:42:01 AM · #1
I was asked to do a photoshoot of one of my brother-in-law's recently completed condos. He is a real-estate developer here in Montreal. He recently completed a very big project which included several $1,000,000 2-story penthouses in Old Montreal.

We went in and took photos of one of the higher-end penthouses, so I used my new 20D and went out and bought a 17-40 L lens to complete the job. I also wanted to get the full effect of my Zenitar 16mm FishEye lens, so I borrowed a friend's EOS-Elan film camera and loaded some film. This camera allows the lens to get the maximum out of the fisheye effect. I then had the film processed for $4 and the negatives scanned at 6MP for $10. The results were pretty impressive. I'm thinking of getting a used film camera (same model available used at Simon's for $250), and doing this process on occasion, in order to take advantage of the real wide side of my lenses. Can anybody recommend a better body that I might get for a good price?

Enough talk, here are some samples of both the Film/fisheye and 17-40L/20D combos:
16mm FE

17-40mm L


More images here: //mariomelillo.com/gallery/architecture

Edit: I just realized that it is not really full frame, but rather no crop factor images. Sorry.

Message edited by author 2004-10-21 00:45:36.
10/21/2004 12:44:56 AM · #2
Long live film!
10/21/2004 12:58:29 AM · #3
I'm just curious, which Elan were you using? I use the Elan II.
10/21/2004 01:04:26 AM · #4
Originally posted by luv2photo:

I'm just curious, which Elan were you using? I use the Elan II.


EOS-Elan. No other markings. I assume that means it's an Elan I.
10/21/2004 01:24:11 AM · #5
for occasional use a Rebel Ti might be worth getting. Has the same limitations as the digital rebel, but pretty cheap and good enough for infrequent shoots.
10/21/2004 01:45:42 AM · #6
I've been meaning to get a film body for a while now, just to use my 17-40 for landscapes. While one day I hope to get a 1Ds, it'll be a while before I'm out of school and thus a Rebel or Elan would be the only affordable full-frame option. My girlfriend uses a Pentax manual with a 24 and a 50 and, to be honest, the big viewfinder, the careful consideration of all shots and the forced delay and subsequent joy of getting real prints back and enjoying them all at once is very appealing.

Message edited by author 2004-10-21 01:46:16.
10/21/2004 07:47:18 AM · #7
Originally posted by Gordon:

for occasional use a Rebel Ti might be worth getting. Has the same limitations as the digital rebel, but pretty cheap and good enough for infrequent shoots.


Are there major differences between cameras in terms of picture quality? After all, lens and film would be the same. Is it just feature differences? What about metering possibilities? Are there limited function meterings using the Rebel vs Elan series as there is in digital?
10/21/2004 08:14:05 AM · #8
If you were to get 2 completely different FULL manual bodies, but used the same class/quality lens, and exactly the same film, then as far as my logical thinking goes, then you will get identical results....
10/21/2004 08:23:50 AM · #9
Originally posted by mariomel:

Originally posted by Gordon:

for occasional use a Rebel Ti might be worth getting. Has the same limitations as the digital rebel, but pretty cheap and good enough for infrequent shoots.


Are there major differences between cameras in terms of picture quality? After all, lens and film would be the same. Is it just feature differences? What about metering possibilities? Are there limited function meterings using the Rebel vs Elan series as there is in digital?


As you suspect, it is feature differences. An image taken with a EOS Elan 7e and a Rebel TI at 1/250 @ F8 should come out identical, assuming the same film is used and all other factors remain the same. It is speed and bells and whistles that change. There are way too many differences to list here, but a good comaprison between Canon's current generation of Elan camera (the 7NE), their last generation (IIe) and a Rebel 2000 can be found here.

That might give you an idea of some of the extra bells and whistles added or improved between the low end film SLR and next step up.
10/21/2004 10:00:24 AM · #10
Originally posted by richterrell:


As you suspect, it is feature differences. An image taken with a EOS Elan 7e and a Rebel TI at 1/250 @ F8 should come out identical, assuming the same film is used and all other factors remain the same. It is speed and bells and whistles that change. There are way too many differences to list here, but a good comaprison between Canon's current generation of Elan camera (the 7NE), their last generation (IIe) and a Rebel 2000 can be found here.

That might give you an idea of some of the extra bells and whistles added or improved between the low end film SLR and next step up.


Very helpful. Thanks. ANybody know about Infrared photography using film? My 20D is not reputed as being able to do IR very well, because of the IR filters in front of the sensor. Please excuse my ignorance, but is it the film, a filter such as the Hoya R72 or both?

Thanks.
10/21/2004 11:07:58 AM · #11
Originally posted by mariomel:


Very helpful. Thanks. ANybody know about Infrared photography using film? My 20D is not reputed as being able to do IR very well, because of the IR filters in front of the sensor. Please excuse my ignorance, but is it the film, a filter such as the Hoya R72 or both?

Thanks.


Yup, just feature differences between the Ti & the more expensive Elan bodies. The picture quality should effectively be the same, for the same lenses. You have similar metering restrictions and some external interfacing things (remotes, strobes) that are different between the bodies, along with things like film advance speed. You can always use
a handheld spot meter and manual mode though.

I mainly got the Ti to do infrared photography, then totally forgot to shoot any at all. It is really the film that you use that is IR sensitive, though you can also use filters to block normal light wavelengths to increase the IR effect. There are several IR films available.

One thing to check is that some of the Canon bodies use an IR beam to track the film sprockets, which can cloud certain IR films as they move through the camera. There are various duct-tape solutions but also high speed IR film has apparently less issues. There are many web pages devoted to this issue, and solutions/ options.

e.g., //www.mat.uc.pt/~rps/photos/FAQ_IR.html

Message edited by author 2004-10-21 11:09:30.
10/21/2004 11:15:20 AM · #12
Where would you get film scanning done? How much does it cost for higher resolution scans? Say 20/25mb?

edit: would this require 2.25x2.24 or 4 x 5 format? Seems like the 20x resolution of 35mm would come in handy :-)

Message edited by author 2004-10-21 11:23:45.
10/21/2004 12:00:19 PM · #13
Here's an interesting Link that discusses the quality of digital vs film vs medium format. There are some links in it to other ones compairing 56mm x 56mm to a canon 1Ds as well.
10/21/2004 12:03:52 PM · #14
really great shots :-)
10/21/2004 12:06:04 PM · #15
forget cameras. when can i move in?
10/21/2004 12:08:01 PM · #16
I have the EOS Elan IIe, and I LOVE it!!! My friend has the 7ne and she loves it. Seriously, the EOS Elan system is excellent in every way. Just see what features you love most and see if you can find an Elan on ebay or at a local shop. I highly recommend the e (eye control auto focus), i really miss having that (with my 20d). That was one of my favorite features!!!
10/21/2004 12:45:36 PM · #17
Originally posted by Gordon:

I mainly got the Ti to do infrared photography, then totally forgot to shoot any at all. It is really the film that you use that is IR sensitive, though you can also use filters to block normal light wavelengths to increase the IR effect. There are several IR films available.

One thing to check is that some of the Canon bodies use an IR beam to track the film sprockets, which can cloud certain IR films as they move through the camera. There are various duct-tape solutions but also high speed IR film has apparently less issues. There are many web pages devoted to this issue, and solutions/ options.

e.g., //www.mat.uc.pt/~rps/photos/FAQ_IR.html


Thanks Gordon, very helpful. A few last questions:

- what about lenses? In Digital IR, only some lenses work well, like the 50mm 1.8, which will not produce a lens flare in the pics. Is it the same in film? Would IR work well with say the 17-40 L? Or 28-135 IS?

- Just so I'm clear on the filter use...use of the Hoya R72 would give more of an IR effect on BW IR film, by blocking out most normal light?

- Last thing...the Rebel Ti or Even Elan series all seem to have the IR LED for film advancing. What will it do? Fog the bottom 4mm of each image? That can't be good.

Does anybody have any scanned images in BW IR photography? I should go look on Pbase or Photosig.

Thanks.
10/21/2004 01:40:55 PM · #18
Here is one of my infrared shots. It's a crappy flatbed scan, but the print is beautiful....



I used a Nikon N70 with a 35-70mm kit lens and a Hoya R72 filter. The film used for infrared is kinda a pian in the rear, it needs to be loaded and unloaded in complete darkness. I also think it's hard to predict how the shots are going to turn out and it can be alot of hit and miss.
Neverless it is fun when you get a photo that turns out.
10/21/2004 04:15:41 PM · #19
Originally posted by Paige:

Here is one of my infrared shots. It's a crappy flatbed scan, but the print is beautiful....



I used a Nikon N70 with a 35-70mm kit lens and a Hoya R72 filter. The film used for infrared is kinda a pian in the rear, it needs to be loaded and unloaded in complete darkness. I also think it's hard to predict how the shots are going to turn out and it can be alot of hit and miss.
Neverless it is fun when you get a photo that turns out.


Very nice! I think I'm going to try it out using my loaner EOS-Elan before all the leaves fall off the trees.

BTW, what film did you use?
10/21/2004 04:51:23 PM · #20
Originally posted by mirdonamy:

I have the EOS Elan IIe, and I LOVE it!!! My friend has the 7ne and she loves it. Seriously, the EOS Elan system is excellent in every way. Just see what features you love most and see if you can find an Elan on ebay or at a local shop. I highly recommend the e (eye control auto focus), i really miss having that (with my 20d). That was one of my favorite features!!!

What is eye control auto focus? How does that work?
10/21/2004 04:53:53 PM · #21
Originally posted by mariomel:



e.g., //www.mat.uc.pt/~rps/photos/FAQ_IR.html


Thanks Gordon, very helpful. A few last questions:
...
[/quote]

These are all answered in that FAQ

Message edited by author 2004-10-21 16:54:25.
10/21/2004 05:47:52 PM · #22
Originally posted by Gordon:


These are all answered in that FAQ


Indeed they are. Thanks. I didn't see anything about the lens flare problem, so I guess there are none.
10/21/2004 06:47:40 PM · #23
thats one bad ass flat ;o)
10/21/2004 06:49:35 PM · #24
Originally posted by kyebosh:


What is eye control auto focus? How does that work?


You just look at one of the focus points through the viewfinder and the camera focuses at that point.
10/21/2004 06:50:01 PM · #25
Originally posted by kyebosh:

Originally posted by mirdonamy:

I have the EOS Elan IIe, and I LOVE it!!! My friend has the 7ne and she loves it. Seriously, the EOS Elan system is excellent in every way. Just see what features you love most and see if you can find an Elan on ebay or at a local shop. I highly recommend the e (eye control auto focus), i really miss having that (with my 20d). That was one of my favorite features!!!

What is eye control auto focus? How does that work?


Oh, it's amazing! You first have to set it (Custom Function) and when you look through the camera, you will see a point light up, look at it and press the shutter, then do that til you are done going through the procedure. It tells you how in the manual, takes less than 30 seconds to do it.

Then, when you have your camera set to that function, you can just look at something and it will focus on it! The faster the camera/lens, the faster it will focus. You can watch a bird fly and keep great focus or you can focus on the tree in the background instead of the person in front and the camera will adjust its focus.

It works with a small beam that detects the exact point your eye is looking at and the depth to which you are looking (somehow). I don't understand science, i just trust it!
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