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08/08/2013 07:29:30 AM · #1 |
I didn't know how else to title this topic:
I have a classroom at college where I teach. It's an average size room. If I move all the desks to the front of the class I have a big white wall at the back to work with as a backdrop. The ceiling is about 3 meters up, so it's kind of low compared to what you might find in a studio. The ceiling is also white.
First, what kind of lighting setup (I have 3 flashes and 1 studio strobe to work with as well as radio triggers) would produce a nice head-shot? How about going from head and shoulders to full body? I should say I love Peter Hurley's style when it comes to head-shots but I'm open to suggestions. I have just a few modifiers (Umbrella, softbox for strobe, 15 cm softbox for flash, reflector). I'm not looking at investing in lighting gear (the expensive kind) but would definitely order some of the cheaper 'made in China' modifiers off ebay. I'm not getting paid for this work, I'm looking at improving my portrait photography and I'm going to start with my students (All girls college, dealing with make-up and hair is gonna be a pain).
With any modifiers or lighting setup, is the white wall or ceiling going to come into play as far as bouncing light where I don't want it to go? I've also got to lug this equipment by train and on foot to the school, so I'm looking for a fast setup as well. I plan on practicing at home, but my rooms here are a lot smaller and I'm (not entirely) sure that the light is getting bounced around because of the low ceiling (I can touch the ceiling with standing on my toes).
Any advice would be great. The shoot won't happen until the end of September. All my students will get their own head-shot and full-body shot to be used for whatever they like. If they come in with a suit, it's for business as they have to put head-shots on their resumes. If they come in with traditional Japanese clothes it's more for fun and something to put on the walls at home. But they can come in wearing whatever they want, so long as it's clothes that would be OK with the school. They will all make a donation to the Pink Ribbon Campaign (October is Breast Cancer Month) and hopefully they will learn more about how to care for themselves as they grow up while getting a nice photo out of it. |
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08/10/2013 12:22:23 AM · #2 |
i've done portrait setups a few different ways. My preferred modifier is a 24 inch softbox, supported by a second light that's either got the moonlight modifier or is shot through a white umbrella. I would avoid really small modifiers - unless they'll be used in a place where they won't affect the facial features of your subject?
If i want to go the high key route, i'll usually have one or two lights hitting the background too. You may have to re calibrate once or twice to make sure all the lights are behaving the way you envisioned. Give your self time to setup the shots, the positioning of your subjects and then you can shoot fairly quickly.
I've experimented with strips, octos, all can look pretty good. I've also seen shots come out quite decently straight out of umbrellas (not mine - other peoples).
I'd probably light all the headshots in one go - then shoot all the full body shots in the next round. Reason being that you can make adjustments for lighting on the clothes. I'd also try to get all the people wearing predominantly light colors in separately from those wearing mostly dark. 9 feet is enough height to get what you want done. Depending on how you're shooting you can put that 4th light to work for the hair or as a second for the bkground.
I hope this helps
Message edited by author 2013-08-14 08:55:12. |
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08/10/2013 10:26:03 AM · #3 |
| Honestly, having shot some in a classroom, I'd say just to test it out. It's possible you can use the ceiling to your advantage. Hurley generally has a pretty simple setup all things considered, and it isn't necessarily hard to replicate. What's hard to replicate of his is the rapport and posing because of how comfortable he makes people. |
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08/14/2013 07:29:30 AM · #4 |
Thanks for the advice.
I don't have 9 meters of height to work with unfortunately. My apartment ceiling is a bit lower I think but I will test at home with my wife before going into the school with lights. I'll test out different setups, see what looks good/easy. Again, thanks for the adivce |
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08/14/2013 08:07:11 AM · #5 |
two options:
use a standard 2-3 speedlight setup. one key, one soft fill (or reflector) and one to light the wall backdrop, using umbrellas to light the subjects. its light, portable and once you have it setup you can blow through all the shots.
the other option is to use the white wall to your advantage by bouncing of it, set to or three light a few feet apart and aim them at the wall behind you to bounce the light forward. either record the output with a lightmeter or chimp your way to the proper exposure.
The fist option will give you more traditional headshots with more dramatic lighting, the second option will work but the light will be very even and diffused, so its more ideal for group or full body shots.
i would lean toward the option one, since the lighting is better and you really dont need fullbody shots, head and three quarter will be more than enough.
Message edited by author 2013-08-14 08:07:17. |
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08/14/2013 08:54:47 AM · #6 |
0oooh wow, i said 9 meters. I meant 9 feet. my mistake
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08/14/2013 10:05:01 AM · #7 |
Thanks...I'll try that setup tomorrow after work (Option 1).
Where would you place the key and fill light for a traditional headshot and for fullbody shots?
Is there a thread on here "How it was shot (Lighting setups)", because it would be cool if there was so we can use it as a reference. |
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08/14/2013 10:26:46 AM · #8 |
the best advice is to google headshot lighting...
im fond of this one:
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08/14/2013 10:27:40 AM · #9 |
another variation:
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