Using a remote for self portraits

03/21/2013 10:11:32 AM · #1

I started to answer this question in a reply on my recent challenge entry but thought it would be an interesting discussion and informative for some who are trying to do self portraits. So instead I will put my reply in this thread.

John brought up an interesting question to this photo:

He asked: "Jen, to save the trouble of the broom in the bucket of sand, which I found hilarious, have you ever considered a remote controller? I used one in my minimal portrait challenge."

There are some good reasons why I didn't use a remote, and there are several methods for getting focus on for a self portrait and each situation a different method will work best here are the three methods:
1. use a remote
2. have someone else push the shutter release button for you
3. use a prop in the same height and plane as you plan on being to get your focus point once you get it switch your camera to manual focus and don't touch it.

In this case I used the third method. I actually prefer to use my oldest daughter she understands the camera enough to get the focus point where it needs to be and then pushes the shutter button. But I only had time to do these while they were at school so I had to use one of the other two methods. First I tried the remote but I find the remote only works well if you are doing a fairly simple portrait where you hands are not showing. I use a single focus point and anyone who wants to get really good sharp photos should always chose their focus point and not let the camera do it for you. Trying to line that single focus point up so that the camera hits it in the exact spot you want is difficult when not looking through the view finder. I tried several times with my remote but never could get it to line up. Even if I could, it was difficult to hold the remote and mirror at the same time. I could hold the mirror with one hand and try to use the remote with the other but then I would have to turn and my focus point would move. I wanted my photos to be tack sharp at 100% percent magnification, so I could use them for stock so even the slightest off focus was unacceptable to me.

So there you have it, the reason I use a broom in a bucket of sand :) By the way both were readily available to me in my studio, I have all sorts of props that I use for stock photos, I use the sand for beach photos (I also have a collection of sea shells). What is your favorite method and why?

Olympus 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro

03/21/2013 10:27:29 AM · #2

im with you on this, i find self portraits extremely difficult especially with wider apertures.

i use the stand in to get focus a lot and a timer. i really need to get a remote. i'll use my daughter if she is tall enough to reach the height the camera is usually at, plus she really likes to push the button.

getting myself in focus is a real challenge.

Message edited by author 2013-03-21 10:38:06.

Ann

Olympus OM-D E-M1

03/21/2013 12:09:25 PM · #3

I find that even with a remote, it works best to prefocus and set the camera on manual focus. If I try to use autofocus, It will invariably be nicely focused on the wrong thing. Using manual focus and getting myself in the focus plane works more consistently. The main advantage to the remote (a cheap, Chinese ebay model) is that I can fire off a bunch of shots without getting up and resetting.

03/21/2013 12:15:47 PM · #4

Originally posted by Ann:

The main advantage to the remote (a cheap, Chinese ebay model) is that I can fire off a bunch of shots without getting up and resetting.

at least with a timer you check focus between each shot as opposed to seeing you took 10 and missed focus in all ;-)

03/21/2013 12:25:34 PM · #5

The ideal solution is to shoot tethered, manually focused, with a remote. Set the computer up where you can see the screen, close to where you're posing.

03/21/2013 12:29:42 PM · #6

i loathe shoot tethered more than i loathe shooting self portraits.

low key is impossible with the screen light cast and i'm afraid of tripping on wires. :)

Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM

03/21/2013 12:39:04 PM · #7

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

The ideal solution is to shoot tethered, manually focused, with a remote. Set the computer up where you can see the screen, close to where you're posing.

I like the idea of shooting tethered with the exception of what mike said about tripping. It is hard enough to avoid all the cords for the strobes and such. But where do you find a cord long enough. Usually I am around 10-15 feet away from the camera.

I've thought about the tethered idea for other things nothing is worse than doing a bunch of stock photos only to find out they look different than what you thought because your display is too bright or vice versa.

Skip

Canon EOS-1D X

03/21/2013 01:16:46 PM · #8

it's all a matter of managing shooting logistics. when i have the time, i shoot tethered. the ability to see the whole image beats the heck out of hoping what you see in the lcd is what you want. if you don't like the light cast, keep a black cloth handy and simply cover up your laptop. and i can't imagine shooting tethered to a laptop throwing off your idea as to proper exposure being any worse than going by the lcd view.

as for triggering, nothing beats remotes. it's just like being there.

tripping...really? take your time and move slowly ;-)

i'm not quite sure what the issue is as far as focus goes when using a remote, unless you're camera is set up to autofocus on your click. my camera's are all set up with the focus on a back-button (as opposed to a half-push on the shutter), so refocusing is never an issue.

03/21/2013 01:22:14 PM · #9

Originally posted by Skip:

i'm not quite sure what the issue is as far as focus goes when using a remote, unless you're camera is set up to autofocus on your click. my camera's are all set up with the focus on a back-button (as opposed to a half-push on the shutter), so refocusing is never an issue.

Ditto. The only time I ever switch to shutter button focus is when I'm shooting blind.

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 17-35mm f/2.8D IF-ED

03/21/2013 01:39:16 PM · #10

Originally posted by Skip:

Unless I switch it to manual focus the remote refocuses every time. Plus mine only has a delay of about 5 seconds so trying to push the remote and get into place is much harder than the 15-20 seconds I get when I use the timer and get into place. Even still I am usually rushing (thus the tripping issue).

tanguera

Nikon D750

03/21/2013 01:40:37 PM · #11

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by Skip:

i'm not quite sure what the issue is as far as focus goes when using a remote, unless you're camera is set up to autofocus on your click. my camera's are all set up with the focus on a back-button (as opposed to a half-push on the shutter), so refocusing is never an issue.

Ditto. The only time I ever switch to shutter button focus is when I'm shooting blind.

Tritto!

Garry

Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM

Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II

03/21/2013 02:08:20 PM · #12

I like the concept of using back button for focus....but im paranoid that once I set focus and snap happily away that i'll having nothing should my focus have been a smidge.

Skip

Canon EOS-1D X

03/21/2013 02:17:42 PM · #13

Originally posted by sjhuls:

Originally posted by Skip:
it's all a matter of managing shooting logistics. when i have the time, i shoot tethered. the ability to see the whole image beats the heck out of hoping what you see in the lcd is what you want. if you don't like the light cast, keep a black cloth handy and simply cover up your laptop. and i can't imagine shooting tethered to a laptop throwing off your idea as to proper exposure being any worse than going by the lcd view.

as for triggering, nothing beats remotes. it's just like being there.

tripping...really? take your time and move slowly ;-)

i'm not quite sure what the issue is as far as focus goes when using a remote, unless you're camera is set up to autofocus on your click. my camera's are all set up with the focus on a back-button (as opposed to a half-push on the shutter), so refocusing is never an issue.

Unless I switch it to manual focus the remote refocuses every time. Plus mine only has a delay of about 5 seconds so trying to push the remote and get into place is much harder than the 15-20 seconds I get when I use the timer and get into place. Even still I am usually rushing (thus the tripping issue).

hence, switching to back-button focusing ;-)

your 7D has a 2-second and 10-second delay and the remote will respect that, giving you the ability to compose and focus, get into place, trigger the shutter, and still have time to hide the remote.

Originally posted by gcoulson:

I like the concept of using back button for focus....but im paranoid that once I set focus and snap happily away that i'll having nothing should my focus have been a smidge.

it just takes practice. do it for a few hours and it will become second nature.

Strikeslip

Canon EOS-5D

Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS

03/21/2013 02:19:16 PM · #14

You guys and your fancy, button-loaded cameras!

bhuge

Canon EOS-550D Rebel T2i

Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II

03/21/2013 02:24:10 PM · #15

Originally posted by Skip:

... if you don't like the light cast, keep a black cloth handy and simply cover up your laptop. and i can't imagine shooting tethered to a laptop throwing off your idea as to proper exposure being any worse than going by the lcd view.

When I worked in stop-motion animation, all the tethered shooting apps would black out the screen during the exposure. Does anyone know of general purpose tether apps that will also do this?

03/21/2013 02:46:32 PM · #16

Originally posted by Skip:

your 7D has a 2-second and 10-second delay and the remote will respect that, giving you the ability to compose and focus, get into place, trigger the shutter, and still have time to hide the remote.

I guess I just don't know what you mean by back button is it on my camera or on my remote?

Sony FE 200-600mm f/5.6-6.3 G OSS

03/21/2013 02:56:20 PM · #17

Originally posted by sjhuls:

Originally posted by Skip:

your 7D has a 2-second and 10-second delay and the remote will respect that, giving you the ability to compose and focus, get into place, trigger the shutter, and still have time to hide the remote.

I guess I just don't know what you mean by back button is it on my camera or on my remote?

you can set the back button on the camera to focus and leave the shutter button to meter only. Some folks live by it, it hurts my hand.

linky

ETA, you can choose a myriad of AF and metering options as described in the article.

Message edited by author 2013-03-21 15:00:09.

vawendy

Sony Alpha 1

03/21/2013 03:18:01 PM · #18

Originally posted by sjhuls:

Even if I could, it was difficult to hold the remote and mirror at the same time. I could hold the mirror with one hand and try to use the remote with the other but then I would have to turn and my focus point would move.

Why do you have to turn? Are you using the line of site type?

Get a cheap pair of yongnuo triggers. You can use them for flash, etc, but you can also use them to trigger your camera. I can use them from 30' away through walls and it still shoots. Awesome stuff!

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED

03/21/2013 04:22:33 PM · #19

Originally posted by vawendy:

Originally posted by sjhuls:
Even if I could, it was difficult to hold the remote and mirror at the same time. I could hold the mirror with one hand and try to use the remote with the other but then I would have to turn and my focus point would move.

Why do you have to turn? Are you using the line of site type?

Get a cheap pair of yongnuo triggers. You can use them for flash, etc, but you can also use them to trigger your camera. I can use them from 30' away through walls and it still shoots. Awesome stuff!

my remote will only fire if it is pointing at the camera. And for this particular portrait I was faced away from the camera. I do have a couple triggers but I have strobes and they don't work for them, at least I don't think they do.

Neil

Fujifilm X-T30

03/21/2013 08:49:19 PM · #20

My camera refuses to fire whenever it's pointed at me. So neither a self timer or remote helps. Maybe I could try this one if I held up a pic of Jen instead of a mirror? ;)

Great shot Jen!

03/21/2013 09:04:43 PM · #21

Originally posted by sjhuls:

Originally posted by vawendy:

Originally posted by sjhuls:
Even if I could, it was difficult to hold the remote and mirror at the same time. I could hold the mirror with one hand and try to use the remote with the other but then I would have to turn and my focus point would move.

Why do you have to turn? Are you using the line of site type?

Get a cheap pair of yongnuo triggers. You can use them for flash, etc, but you can also use them to trigger your camera. I can use them from 30' away through walls and it still shoots. Awesome stuff!

my remote will only fire if it is pointing at the camera. And for this particular portrait I was faced away from the camera. I do have a couple triggers but I have strobes and they don't work for them, at least I don't think they do.

Jen! THINK!

1. set self timer
2. get in position
3. use remote to start self timer!

See? No need to RUN! Plenty of time to pose!

03/21/2013 09:17:46 PM · #22

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by sjhuls:

Originally posted by vawendy:

Originally posted by sjhuls:
Even if I could, it was difficult to hold the remote and mirror at the same time. I could hold the mirror with one hand and try to use the remote with the other but then I would have to turn and my focus point would move.

Why do you have to turn? Are you using the line of site type?

Get a cheap pair of yongnuo triggers. You can use them for flash, etc, but you can also use them to trigger your camera. I can use them from 30' away through walls and it still shoots. Awesome stuff!

my remote will only fire if it is pointing at the camera. And for this particular portrait I was faced away from the camera. I do have a couple triggers but I have strobes and they don't work for them, at least I don't think they do.

Jen! THINK!

1. set self timer
2. get in position
3. use remote to start self timer!

See? No need to RUN! Plenty of time to pose!

You are acting as though I have never tried this. I do a lot of self portraits I'm not trying to make this more difficult than it is just sharing what I have found works best. Here is the problem with what you have stated above. #1 you still have to get the focus point to begin with I have tried getting it with the remote I can never get it in the right spot so I still would have to use the broom or some other prop to find it. #2 once I got my focus point I can see how the remote might be helpful for some people but I like to look at my pose and check everything just to make sure the focus is still on in between each shot, so I still have to go back and forth between the camera each time. #3 I have found through lots of experience that pushing the shutter on my way to a pose is much easier than getting there and using the remote. 10 seconds is really plenty of time I just need to watch out for cords :)