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03/23/2004 06:46:56 PM · #1 |
For me the steps after i found the subject are:
1. taking the photo (multiple photo, multiple exposition, multiple composition)
2. finding the good one
3. cropping
4. levels (in PS)
5. neatimage (if needed)
6. Unsharp mask (in PS if needed)
7. resizing with Genuine Fractals
8. converting to CMYK (only if i want to print the photo)
and that's it...
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03/23/2004 06:53:28 PM · #2 |
| For me the workflow is very similar and I think it is rather typical. Still I havent got a copy of Neatimge so I never use that and sometimes after resizing a use a litle more unsharpen mask because it´s my expirience that images can loose a litle sharpness when they are sized down. |
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03/23/2004 06:54:06 PM · #3 |
You might want to add.......copy. Never work on the original photo.
You do step 7 for a 640x480? Why is that? |
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03/23/2004 07:02:58 PM · #4 |
Originally posted by justine:
You might want to add.......copy. Never work on the original photo.
You do step 7 for a 640x480? Why is that? |
It's my general workflow, but i like to always resize with genuine fractals. I spent few hour the other day comparing different method to downsize photo and i found out that it's almost as important to have a good downsizing method than for upsizing.
Originally posted by garlic:
it´s my expirience that images can loose a litle sharpness when they are sized down. |
When resizing with a plugins designed to do that, if you sharpen after resizing you'll get poor results
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03/23/2004 07:07:38 PM · #5 |
| About the copy. I work on the original but save it in another folder and then the original is like untouched in the original folder. |
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03/23/2004 08:06:54 PM · #6 |
Copy my favorite images for editing to an "Edited" folder using ACDSee viewer.
Use Noise Ninja to remove any noise and save each file in Tiff format.
Use Photoshop for the editing.
Adjust levels
Color correct or convert to B&W
Sharpen the image slightly using my own custom action for my particular camera
Save original uncropped version in a high quality jpeg or .psd. The older version of ACDSee that I prefer will not display tiffs for some reason so I do not save final files in that format because I want to be able to view my files in the viewer when I am done editing.
Crop or resize as necessary and save a new file or print and close without saving the cropped or resized steps. If I am enlarging then I will generally use the 10% stairstep interpolation method and sharpen further if needed.
Take a sip of beer and repeat with a new file.
T
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03/23/2004 09:36:11 PM · #7 |
I generally try out levels or curves first. I guess this speaks to my photography.
I don't think I have a certain work flow. I try to see each image in and of itself, and determine what IT needs.
I have to say I like Tim's method though:
Originally posted by timj351:
Take a sip of beer and repeat with a new file. |
hehe :) |
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03/23/2004 10:22:57 PM · #8 |
I am trying to put together my workflow as an action in PS. So that I can get through all the steps a little faster.
Like KarenB, I sill usually look at it with different Curve adjustments, then decide what crop.
Nick...you save in CMYK? what kind of printer do you have?
Download of CF to iView. Burn Originals
quickview through CS Browser and flag editable images
Convert from RAW (batch,etc) if needed
Copy layer
Check Curves-Undo to Copy layer
Crop
Adjust exposure/Levels/Curves
Adjust Color (to BW or Color tweaking)
Maybe USM slightly then Remove Noise (digital dan has a great action)
Sharpen
More tweaking and Save as TIF
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03/24/2004 04:07:43 PM · #9 |
Learning to create actions is very worthwhile and I encourage everyone to learn about them. I've got custom actions for just about any step in my workflow and it really makes the process quicker and more consistent.
I'm currently working on an action for snapshot photos for when I need to process the family photos quickly with little fuss. This action will also automatically open and save each photo. When the batch process is complete I can still go in to individual photos and do further editing if they need it. This is appropriate for family snapshots that don't need to be perfect but to just look good for those who want 4x6's. The action that I am most pleased with is one I made for sharpening. My F707 has a problem with halo artifacts even at low sharpening levels in-camera. It's not much of a problem unless you sharpen those areas further then it becomes obvious. I've created a sharpening action that sharpens the image while leaving the halo areas virtually uneffected. Since the halo areas occur in high contrast areas anyay the appearence of sharpeness is still consistent throughout the entire image. This is the beauty of actions, you can taylor specific editing steps to your own individual camera for the best images possible.
T
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03/24/2004 04:50:49 PM · #10 |
Here is my secret method...
1-I take a picture
2-I take another picture
3-I take another picture and another and another and another and another...
4-I give up!
I am getting pretty good at it.
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