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09/02/2009 09:29:45 AM · #1 |
What size do you crop your original photo to, to enable a crop of all standard sizes..
i.e. sometimes if I crop to 8x10 (and crop too tightly) then I cannot crop additional sizes of 5x7, 4x6 etc. I have in the past cropped the photo for each size...that is a waste of alot of time.
I print at MPIX and would like to upload one standard size and be able to pick any size.
Thanks |
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09/02/2009 09:32:51 AM · #2 |
That is a good question. I have always had problems with cropping and stuff...Iguess in my case it is inexperience.
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09/02/2009 09:39:25 AM · #3 |
oops adding to my question (rather than start a new post)
how and what do you charge for a kid wanting the photo for facebook or myspace?
I'm thinking a low res and charge like a 4x6 price??
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09/02/2009 09:39:36 AM · #4 |
One thing you could consider is to crop the photo as you wish (normal sized 8x10, 5x7 etc or any odd size that fits the image) and then add a border in PS to the image that you are going to have printed to make it fit the normal modes on the on line printing companies. That way you get the crop you want and then you are able to fit the image easier into the frames/ mats you build/ buy.
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09/02/2009 09:46:52 AM · #5 |
The solution I've learned is to "shoot loose" and keep images at original size. That way any crop is do-able without losing detail. I used to "fill the frame" with my portraits, which is great when you know you will not crop; but with client portraits you never know what size they will want. So leave some space around them for the enevitable crops.
As for a low res digital image for kids to share they can either have a free one with my logo or pay $2 each. Most take the logos. :)
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09/02/2009 10:03:02 AM · #6 |
thank you idnic...I was hoping to hear from you!
I think you hit my error on the head...I tend to fill the frame....but conciously made an effort not to with my senior shots from yesterday.
what res and size do you give them.... |
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09/02/2009 10:04:00 AM · #7 |
4 x 6 (8 x 12)contains more image real estate than an 8 x 10 so if you want an aspect ratio that will allow cropping to other sizes then that aspect ratio would be used.
However, in order to allow the croppings without getting too tight you'd need to shoot for the smallest aspect ratio and fill the frame with negative space. |
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09/02/2009 10:08:04 AM · #8 |
Originally posted by dassilem: thank you idnic...I was hoping to hear from you!
I think you hit my error on the head...I tend to fill the frame....but conciously made an effort not to with my senior shots from yesterday.
what res and size do you give them.... |
Glad to help. ;)
As for size, you're gonna giggle... I give them standard DPC size (640 longest side), only because I already have a macro set up to size it. A sign of laziness. lol
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09/02/2009 02:15:06 PM · #9 |
Thank you for all the suggestions.. |
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09/03/2009 07:11:18 PM · #10 |
I recently changed my workflow for exactly this reason. I used to crop the photo in Lightroom and then import it into Photoshop for final touch up. But I started having people asking for crop sizes that resulted in me having to redo some of the Photoshop work. So I now do everything at original size and then crop write before export/print. I still have to make a roundtrip to Photoshop after the crop to reposition my watermark but most times I'm good. |
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09/03/2009 07:41:40 PM · #11 |
The answer is crop everying to 10X14. You can crop anything else you need out of that
10x14
9x12
8x10
4x 6
5x 7
That's what I do, if I'm preparing shots for a client & I have no idea what they will want. You can crop anything out of a 10x14. You're going to do more cropping on the long edge, so think about that when you do the original crop. Set it at 300 dpi when you do it, & you only have to save one file. I tried the extra border, but I don't like it. |
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