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01/20/2004 03:18:04 AM · #51 |
Originally posted by Koriyama:
You're right. I've just checked DPReview's review of your camera, which confirms that figure. I must say that I'm impressed, Sleekr, you've managed some very fine images with your obsolete camera. You've even got 'respectful language' in Japanese (keigo). |
Thanks Koriyama! I'm hoping to get a new camera soon, hopefully I can get my shots and scores up there.
The 'respectful language' I presume you're talking about is in my Grace entry:
I can't remember what the calligraphy/keigo read!
Message edited by author 2004-01-20 03:18:27.
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01/20/2004 09:23:50 AM · #52 |
If you'd like to see some amazing examples of "Painting with Light", I suggest you check out Emil Schildt's gallery (there is nudity, for those who need a warning). Emil is, in my opinion, an incredible artist. He's a Danish photography teacher and he specializes in alternative processing techniques. He explains his paint with light tecniques as well as other methods he uses to achieve his wonderful images. Check out his site for inspiration on this challenge.
Dave
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01/20/2004 12:23:51 PM · #53 |
I tried a shot of my iPod in a dark bedroom using an ordinary flashlight as the moving light and was surprised by the results because there is so much more light than I expected. I made the camera take a picture that took only 1 second because I wanted to see what that would look like and, in auto focus, there is lots of mood but not much detail. I think I need a brighter light and faster shutter speed (which can be forced). This is going to force me to get comfortable with some aspects of my camera I've been meaning to use but never seem to get around to. :)
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01/20/2004 12:28:53 PM · #54 |
Getting the focus right, when you are shooting in the dark can be tough.
If your camera has a timer mode I'd recommend using it. Shine a bright light on the subject at the area where your camera tries to focus, and half press the shutter until the camera locks on, then fully press the shutter. Hopefully then your camera will be focused and the timer will start counting down - this gives you some leeway to move the light out/ switch off the main focus light etc and start moving your actual light around. I find often its easier to be moving the light before the shutter opens, so you don't get 'caught' in one place.
Smooth, continuous strokes work well for smooth blends and if you can get a long enough exposure, remember you can build up light - it doesn't have to be applied once in an area, you can work over parts multiple times to brighten up specific regions.
Shaping the light through impliments can help a great deal too. Often I hold a flash light in my hands and use my fingers to cup and shape the light beam, letting it spill out onto the subject almost like water running through my hands.
I also use little foil hoods that I shape over the end of the light, to give thin, controllable strips of light to work with. It takes a lot of tries to get good results, luck can play a part too, but particularly with digital you can learn really quickly by looking at the results and changing the motions you make with the light...
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01/20/2004 12:41:34 PM · #55 |
Thanks, Gordon, that's a good reminder. :)
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01/20/2004 06:01:23 PM · #56 |
Man and to think I have enough trouble with over or underexposed, to much or not enough light shadows or glares and they throw this one at us! Oh well gonna have to try!
Hey beating off the subject a little, I am looking for tutorials on light sources found some threads from a year ago about it but the links all bad.
Anything would be helpfull!
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01/20/2004 11:09:31 PM · #57 |
Here̢۪s one I did using a cheap 1.50 flashlight. Was not a complete second and still got some good effects.
jm |
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