HDR (high dynamic range) Photo Side Challenge

Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM

05/04/2009 11:27:17 PM · #26

This is one that I took today.

05/04/2009 11:30:09 PM · #27

I just took this about a week ago...

Samsung Galaxy S24, S24+, S24 Ultra

05/04/2009 11:31:46 PM · #28

ok...lets try this one more time....sorry

Bear_Music

Sony 24-70mm F4 Vario-Tessar T* FE OSS

05/04/2009 11:33:10 PM · #29

Originally posted by linny:

ok...lets try this one more time....sorry

R.

(thumb)788329(/thumb) except replace the parentheses with the square brackets, ] and [

Message edited by author 2009-05-04 23:34:24.

power47

Nikon D3s

Nikon AF Zoom-Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8 VR DG IF-ED

05/05/2009 12:18:38 AM · #30

these images are great but wasnt the point of this to share technique and therefor explain how an image was done when its posted?

digifotojo

Canon EOS-550D Rebel T2i

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 III

05/05/2009 12:33:18 AM · #31

Originally posted by power47:

these images are great but wasnt the point of this to share technique and therefor explain how an image was done when its posted?

Just a reminder to everyone to try to include your processing details as best you can so others can see how you created your masterpiece. Thanks!

brumer0

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

05/05/2009 12:56:10 AM · #32

I think this is one of my favorite ones that Ive done HDR. I know the concept of HDR is to try and make it as real life as possible, but I just get a kick out of making things look gothic. In order to do so I use a single RAW file (CR2) and pump it through Photomatix. In photomatix I play with the settings quite a bit. The gothic look that I like is achieved by lowering the Gamma (slider to the left) quite a bit, and then using the other settings to make the lighting look balanced enough. After that Ill run it through photoshop where I sometimes use the Shaddow/Highlight function (although, I dont think I did on the photo below). Personally, I dont like to saturate things beyond what I remember them being in real life, but sometimes through the Photomatix processing it gets saturated a bit more anyways (depending on the photo I may even desaturate in photoshop). The photo below, and the other Venice photos in my portfolio, then had levels applied to them. Pretty basic, where I just slide the middle slidder (RGB) to the right about .1-.15 which makes the darks darker and the lights lighter (right?). Sharpen, crop, and save.

brumer0

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

05/05/2009 12:59:38 AM · #33

Originally posted by mgarsteck:

This is one that I took today.

I really like this. My only recommendation is that the statue looks a bit dark and is silioutted (on my screen anyways, maybe just me though). So, if you do Image-Adjustmens-Shadow/Highlight, you could lighten up the shaddows and the statue details could be seen more.

Well done!

franktheyank

Canon EOS-5D Mark IV

05/05/2009 01:08:26 AM · #34

I shot this today at Gas Works Park in Seattle. I used 3 shots in Photomatix 3.1. One exposed properly, one 2 stops over, and one 2 stops under exposed. Used the detail enhancer tab. All adjustments done there.

Message edited by author 2009-05-07 10:39:36.

artvet

Canon EOS-6D

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm f3.5-5.6G ED VR

05/05/2009 03:35:19 AM · #35

I use Photomatix for HDR and tone mapping, then PS for final edit, I prefer to work in mono/duo tones, color HDR is much more difficult IMO, always seems to be over saturated.

dougi555

Nikon D800

05/05/2009 05:05:10 AM · #36

Single Raw, stretched exposure to +/- 1 and 2 stops in Aperture, then run through Photomatix Pro

bobonacus

Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM

05/05/2009 05:23:41 AM · #37

Originally posted by franktheyank:

FYI - If you use the image id and click the second icon from the right from the images that appear above the text box, ie this image -

, 'Insert Thumbnail Link to Site Image' and use your id your thumbnail will appear as a link to your image like this :

bobonacus

Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM

05/05/2009 05:26:19 AM · #38

Can I suggest that as this is a learning thread where possible you post your unedited "correct exposure" shot as well so we can see what has been achieved using HDR :)

franktheyank

Canon EOS-5D Mark IV

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm f3.5-5.6G ED VR

05/05/2009 07:23:17 AM · #39

Ok, here's the original unedited photo.

Originally posted by franktheyank:

jimness

Canon EOS-5D

Canon EF 20-35mm f/2.8L

05/05/2009 09:38:04 AM · #40

In keeping with the tutorial-aspect request...here's a shot I took at the weekend of Ightham Mote, a rather pretty 14th Century Manor House in Kent:

Original

Here are a couple of outputs straight from Photomatix - I had 3 exposures differing by 1 1/3 stops (I think):
Light Smoothing Level 4

Light Smoothing Level 3 (warning, sunglasses may be required)

In PS I combined these three layers, reducing the opacity of each, and toning down the effect further in certain areas (especially the flowers which went a bit crazy) - then a bit of dodge n burn to finish. Could have done a lot more but time constraints yada yada.

A bit of breeze made some of the vegatation a bit wobbly with 3 exposures after alignment. But you guys don't mind, right :)

DCrest01

Nikon D800

05/05/2009 10:36:18 AM · #41

I went to Photomatix so I could play along here, but there are many versions to chose from. Which one should I be looking at?

Ken

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM

05/05/2009 10:44:42 AM · #42

Originally posted by DCrest01:

I went to Photomatix so I could play along here, but there are many versions to chose from. Which one should I be looking at?

I believe the latest standalone has all the bells and whistles and should do whatever you want. I tend to create my HDR or EXR file in Artizen and tonemap with the Photomatix plugin for PS. I don't think I'm really answering your question though...

DCrest01

Nikon D800

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm f3.5-5.6G ED VR

05/05/2009 10:49:22 AM · #43

Thanks Ken, I'll look at both. I appreciate the help.

digifotojo

Canon EOS-550D Rebel T2i

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 III

05/05/2009 11:13:39 AM · #44

Originally posted by DCrest01:

I went to Photomatix so I could play along here, but there are many versions to chose from. Which one should I be looking at?

I downloaded Photomatix Pro 3 Trial Ware and it works just fine, the full version is $99 but you can use the trialware as long as you resize your images before uploading them so the Photomatix logo doesn't show up in your finished image.

05/05/2009 11:37:16 AM · #45

I really like the final product here...this is a great hdr. Question...the two where you did light smoothing level 3 and 4...are these two separate tonemapped versions that were produced and saved separately. I have never done it that way and i really like the outcome.

Originally posted by jimness:

In keeping with the tutorial-aspect request...here's a shot I took at the weekend of Ightham Mote, a rather pretty 14th Century Manor House in Kent:

Original

Here are a couple of outputs straight from Photomatix - I had 3 exposures differing by 1 1/3 stops (I think):
Light Smoothing Level 4

Light Smoothing Level 3 (warning, sunglasses may be required)

In PS I combined these three layers, reducing the opacity of each, and toning down the effect further in certain areas (especially the flowers which went a bit crazy) - then a bit of dodge n burn to finish. Could have done a lot more but time constraints yada yada.

A bit of breeze made some of the vegatation a bit wobbly with 3 exposures after alignment. But you guys don't mind, right :)

jimness

Canon EOS-5D

Canon EF 20-35mm f/2.8L

05/05/2009 11:42:44 AM · #46

Originally posted by linny:

Well thank you! Yes I loaded in my 3 RAW files and tone-mapped the result with the Light Smoothing on Level 4 (what I'd normally use) and saved that, then undid the tone mapping and did the same but with the smoothing set to 3, then saved that as a separate file. In PS I copied and pasted so I had 3 layers in order of effect strength (original, Level 4, level 3) then did the opacity adjustments. Actually I'd normally just use level 4 but I quite like some of the stronger effect on the building, so I thought I'd experiment a bit...

Message edited by author 2009-05-05 11:43:03.

Ken

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM

05/05/2009 11:46:44 AM · #47

Originally posted by jimness:

Originally posted by linny:
I really like the final product here...this is a great hdr. Question...the two where you did light smoothing level 3 and 4...are these two separate tonemapped versions that were produced and saved separately. I have never done it that way and i really like the outcome.

Well thank you! Yes I loaded in my 3 RAW files and tone-mapped the result with the Light Smoothing on Level 4 (what I'd normally use) and saved that, then undid the tone mapping and did the same but with the smoothing set to 3, then saved that as a separate file. In PS I copied and pasted so I had 3 layers in order of effect strength (original, Level 4, level 3) then did the opacity adjustments. Actually I'd normally just use level 4 but I quite like some of the stronger effect on the building, so I thought I'd experiment a bit...

This is good stuff. Sometimes one tonemapping doesn't work for all parts of the photo. With my current Free Study I actually tonemapped in both Photomatix and Artizen and blended & masked in Photoshop. Also, playing with different blending modes can give interesting results.

cgino

Nikon D810

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 14-24mm f/2.8 G ED

05/05/2009 12:00:19 PM · #48

Here are a couple I did recently using the technique described here.