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12/06/2003 05:32:22 PM · #1 |
i enjoy BW photography quite abit, but my epson printer doesnt really do too well. some photos print well in color mode...
but still only 8x10
was wondering if the dpcprints service does well with BW photos, and if so if there needed to be any special processing to maximize the quality.
thanks,
tim
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12/06/2003 05:39:17 PM · #2 |
I think your best bet is to take your final grayscale image and convert it to RGB colorspace before saving the printable file. Tweak the color at that point if necessary. The image must ultimately be built up from RGB materials, so it's better for you to control the colorspace conversion. |
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12/06/2003 07:36:37 PM · #3 |
well, i never usually convert them to grayscale
i tweak the colors a bit
desaturate, and adjust the contrast
it's that simple?
learning to use the curves method when i have a chance
messed with the duotones last night
it's eh at best, but funky
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12/06/2003 07:48:40 PM · #4 |
I ordered a black and white from one of the photogs on dpcprints, and the print was absolutely beautiful! I was very impressed with the quality of the print. |
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12/06/2003 08:06:46 PM · #5 |
Originally posted by soup: well, i never usually convert them to grayscale
i tweak the colors a bit
desaturate, and adjust the contrast
it's that simple?
learning to use the curves method when i have a chance
messed with the duotones last night
it's eh at best, but funky
 |
Right, you can leave the image in RGB and remove the "color" by various means. I thought the questioner had a grayscale image, and wanted to know how best to print it on DPC Prints.
Curves are what I use almost all the time, and once you figure out that duotones are just curves with color channels you specify they are a lot of fun. Which colors did you use for your image?
I made this by taking a very flat original, converting to grayscale, and then to a Tri-Tone using the process colors Black, Cyan, and Yellow, and from there back to RGB for the final JPEG. Considering how close it is to "digital art" it was quite well-received at the time.
Golden Gate
And here is a thumnail and link to the original frame for comparison to the final result.
It was somewhat a last-minute desperation shot -- there was rain and gray skies here all week, and I had little contrast to work with as shot, leading to my decision to artificially colorize it. Here is a link to the Original Frame (it really was shot upside down!)

Message edited by author 2003-12-06 20:10:39. |
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12/06/2003 08:41:54 PM · #6 |
i've ordered b&w prints from DPCPrints and was extremely happy with the quality.
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12/06/2003 08:55:47 PM · #7 |
Never use greyscale - never ever. Most of my 'black and white' work has upto 100,000 discreet colours in any shot. Greyscale allows for 256 shades ... no contest. Given the nature of digital, you're just throwing away 99% of the information in your photo. and never print monochrome either, for the same reason.
One thing I've heard of, but never tried, is specialist monochrome inks for inkjet printers - fit into most popular photo printers, but allow for much more tonal range within the spectrum (apparently). come with their own software for conversion of RGB images onto the printer ... anyone tried these?
Ed
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12/06/2003 09:08:45 PM · #8 |
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12/06/2003 09:57:55 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by e301: One thing I've heard of, but never tried, is specialist monochrome inks for inkjet printers - fit into most popular photo printers, but allow for much more tonal range within the spectrum (apparently). come with their own software for conversion of RGB images onto the printer ... anyone tried these?
Ed |
I try to never use inkjet printers, but this sounds similar to the method used to print Ansel Adams' work; those are printed using four different gray inks (I forget the exact colors though).
Try making a Duo- Tri- Quad-Tone using a combination of Pantone Grays before convrting back to RGB.
Message edited by author 2003-12-06 21:58:39. |
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12/06/2003 11:06:04 PM · #10 |
Channel mixer, monochrome, totals of all channels at about 100%
Convert to greyscale
Duotone
Convert back to RGB
Maybe tweak further
Print text
Gordon -- Can you provide examples of which DuoTone values you used in your examples? thnx |
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12/07/2003 12:00:08 AM · #11 |
yes just played with that image
i have lots ot learn
this is all good info
thanks
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12/07/2003 12:03:20 AM · #12 |
To really play around try dragging your adjustment or duotone curves into funny shapes -- you can get some really cool (but "arty" effects, and it's a lot cleaner than splashing some paint around. |
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12/07/2003 07:44:58 AM · #13 |
Originally posted by e301: One thing I've heard of, but never tried, is specialist monochrome inks for inkjet printers - fit into most popular photo printers, but allow for much more tonal range within the spectrum (apparently). come with their own software for conversion of RGB images onto the printer ... anyone tried these? |
I haven't tried them either, but if you own certain Epson photo printers, Piezography offers a special refillable print cartridge with 100% pigement-based light gray, medium gray, dark gray and black ink and a special printer driver for what appears to be amazing B&W prints. They also offer their inks in 4 different tones. But it is expensive! And it looks like you need a dedicated printer. From their web page "...and no, you can not easily switch between color and monochromatic inks on one printer. That is not recommended." |
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12/07/2003 11:01:00 AM · #14 |
Originally posted by DJLuba:
Gordon -- Can you provide examples of which DuoTone values you used in your examples? thnx |
In the duotone dialog, hit 'Load' then browse to the photoshop directory,
... Presets/Duotones/
From there, I often use the Quadtones/Gray Quadtones or the Quadtones/PANTONE(R) Quadtones and just try different ones (they give fairly significantly different tones, so the correct one for a particular image depends on the mood you are trying to achieve)
I also quite often use the Duotones/PANTONE(R) Dutones for some more significant toning, usually the 'name'..4 versions as the colour shift is more subtle in those cases.
I've been increasingly using these as a starting point to developing my own, depending on how I want to have the image feel, or if I want to get a more split toned look, by selecting specific colours for the highlights, midtones and shadows.
It's also worth realising the the tonal curves for duotones are 'backwards' compared to the usual photoshop curves dialogs - black is on the right and upper corner for the duotone curves.
You can also do a lot by converting the final duotone back to RGB and then performing further levels/ curves/ hue modifications to really fine tune the effect - although probably worth realising that most printers don't actually print a 100% black, so leaving some leaway (maybe 5%) at the lowend helps to keep shadow detail from becoming blocked up. |
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12/07/2003 11:20:45 AM · #15 |
i think this is what i was looking for
thanks -
Originally posted by Gordon: Don't print greyscales there are too limited levels to get good results.
Typically my B&W is
Channel mixer, monochrome, totals of all channels at about 100%
Convert to greyscale
Duotone
Convert back to RGB
Maybe tweak further
Print
This way, you are using a range of colours to give the grey look, allowing you to control the tones and tints more accurately.
You showed a duotone example - I'm guessing you tried to use your own values ? I'd suggest using the built in presets until you get a better idea.
These are all duotoned, it doesn't have to be quite so psychedelic as your example: |
my example i just dragged the curves in the duotone layer all over the place. the large image actually looks kind of cool.
thanks again all,
soup
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12/07/2003 11:31:10 AM · #16 |
Originally posted by Gordon: It's also worth realising the the tonal curves for duotones are 'backwards' compared to the usual photoshop curves dialogs - black is on the right and upper corner for the duotone curves... |
Unless you click on the little gray scale under the Curves graph, which flips the orientation of the axes so that 0,0 is in the lower-left (where it intuitively should be) and the 100,100 point in the upper-right.
Almost the first thing I do when I run a new version of Photoshop is go to the Curves dialog and flip the orientation -- I've never understood why it's the other way by default, except that it's backwards from the orientation used for PostScript, another well-known Adobe product ... |
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12/07/2003 11:45:10 AM · #17 |
Originally posted by GeneralE:
Originally posted by Gordon: It's also worth realising the the tonal curves for duotones are 'backwards' compared to the usual photoshop curves dialogs - black is on the right and upper corner for the duotone curves... |
Unless you click on the little gray scale under the Curves graph, which flips the orientation of the axes so that 0,0 is in the lower-left (where it intuitively should be) and the 100,100 point in the upper-right.
Almost the first thing I do when I run a new version of Photoshop is go to the Curves dialog and flip the orientation -- I've never understood why it's the other way by default, except that it's backwards from the orientation used for PostScript, another well-known Adobe product ... |
This was why I mentioned it - the duotone dialogs are opposite from the more natural curves dialog set up (black lower left, white upper right which is the default, or at least how I've always used them) and can't be reversed. (there is no flip tool in the duotones boxes) |
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12/07/2003 12:39:30 PM · #18 |
Gordon - Thank you for the tutorial. This is huge for me. I̢۪ve been getting as far as messing around with the Channel Mixer, but I had no clue I could do this. This is really, really cool. Thanks again! -david |
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