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10/17/2003 11:02:37 PM · #1 |
I was wondering if anyone here has experimented with setting their camera on B&W and shooting that way rather than converting color to B&W in software?
My reasoning is this: removing color from the equation forces one to concentrate on tone and form without the "distraction" of color.
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10/17/2003 11:47:29 PM · #2 |
I don't think my camera has a b&w setting - sepia, solarize, negative yes.. but no b&w. I wish I had one though.
If someone else has an F717 and there *is* a setting for b&w somewhere and I'm just blind.. let me know!
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10/17/2003 11:59:33 PM · #3 |
| I have a Nikon 990 that has a B/W setting and I found it to be a little bit better than desaturating the photos after the fact. However, the Canon 10D that I use now does not have that function. I found the difference to be minimal though. |
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10/18/2003 12:13:53 AM · #4 |
Originally posted by LucidLotus:
I don't think my camera has a b&w setting - sepia, solarize, negative yes.. but no b&w. I wish I had one though.
If someone else has an F717 and there *is* a setting for b&w somewhere and I'm just blind.. let me know! |
Njet. :-| > Sepia, Solarize, Negative Art, Off (=Colour). The older S 85 used to have this setting and maybe the current V1 does?
Message edited by author 2003-10-18 00:15:10. |
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10/18/2003 05:45:57 AM · #5 |
Originally posted by Spazmo99:
I was wondering if anyone here has experimented with setting their camera on B&W and shooting that way rather than converting color to B&W in software?
My reasoning is this: removing color from the equation forces one to concentrate on tone and form without the "distraction" of color. |
The 5400 has a B/W mode, and i've been using it quite a lot lately - might post some of the results if I get some time and remember over the weekend.
Ed
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10/18/2003 05:57:31 AM · #6 |
I shoot everything in color and then make my black and white conversions on my own. I do this for several reasons. First, I would like to have the color option available in some cases. If I shot in b/w, i lose that ability. Secondly, I would rather have control over my b/w conversion so that I can adjust the tonal range and contrast on my own.
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10/18/2003 08:33:35 AM · #7 |
Originally posted by jmsetzler:
I shoot everything in color and then make my black and white conversions on my own. I do this for several reasons. First, I would like to have the color option available in some cases. If I shot in b/w, i lose that ability. Secondly, I would rather have control over my b/w conversion so that I can adjust the tonal range and contrast on my own. |
John, I'm curious to know what procedure you use to convert to BW. Lately i've been using the chanel mixer set at r=43, g=33, b=31 (which is supposed to recreate a tri-x film), but I sometimes find the results a little flat.
Curious to know what others use.
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10/18/2003 08:38:15 AM · #8 |
I convert to greyscale, convert to RGB, brightness/contrast, then hue=12 sat=6 to get a b&w like this:
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10/18/2003 08:38:59 AM · #9 |
I don't have the channel mixer capability with Photoshop Elements 2.0. I play around with the Gradient map sometimes. There is no fixed way that I convert. It all depends on the particular image. In most cases, I just desaturate the color and then make any appropriate level/contrast adjustments.
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10/18/2003 08:40:52 AM · #10 |
| My F717 has no B&W setting. Thats strange to me. MY old S75 has it. It's so new to me I hadn't noticed before. OH WELL>>>>;) |
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10/18/2003 09:20:23 AM · #11 |
Originally posted by jmritz:
My F717 has no B&W setting. Thats strange to me. MY old S75 has it. It's so new to me I hadn't noticed before. OH WELL>>>>;) |
My 707 doesn't have it either... just a sepia setting.
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10/18/2003 09:38:19 AM · #12 |
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10/18/2003 09:52:09 AM · #13 |
I don't think that black and white is the preferred mode of many consumer photographers. Sepia could be more appealing in that arena.
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10/18/2003 09:57:26 AM · #14 |
The sepia on my G2 is so bright and horrible it should be called "bright orange" rather than sepia.
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10/18/2003 10:20:17 AM · #15 |
i dont think a camera really needs a B&W setting with the ease of removing color on the PC - the trick is to see the photo in B&W before you snap it, or you'll end up with a lot of flat B&W photos.
not all subjects are suitable for B&W.
soup
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10/18/2003 11:01:30 AM · #16 |
I know that most people would shoot in color and then de-saturate in PS because it gives the color option and is somewhat more controlled.
My original thought was more to do it as a visual exercise to force the photographer to concentrate on form and tone rather than color, which can overpower the other two. I was thinking about how I learned in my film photography and graphic design classes and how most art programs (including the one I followed in school) start with B&W and proceed later to color once form and tone have been mastered. The added bonus with film photography is that it is cheaper, but that is really secondary benefit.
I think I am going to try it for a while. Maybe not for everything, but I think I'll adopt is as my primary shooting mode. I can always switch back to color in an instant.
Message edited by author 2003-10-18 11:05:52.
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10/18/2003 11:04:07 AM · #17 |
maybe a B&W challenge is in order ???
soup |
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10/18/2003 11:49:57 AM · #18 |
Ben, out of curiosity, what effect does hue/saturation have on your shots as you describe? I was curious about this, and I'm finding that since I've converted images to greyscale, there's no effect at all when I tinker with hue/sat...?
Originally posted by Konador:
I convert to greyscale, convert to RGB, brightness/contrast, then hue=12 sat=6 to get a b&w like this:
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10/18/2003 11:57:40 AM · #19 |
Originally posted by mariomel:
John, I'm curious to know what procedure you use to convert to BW. Lately i've been using the chanel mixer set at r=43, g=33, b=31 (which is supposed to recreate a tri-x film), but I sometimes find the results a little flat.
Curious to know what others use. |
I use the channel mixer as well. Your settings will give you a good conversion with no blown highlights. Raising blue or green much higher than that will start to blow highlights, but gives better tone to the rest of the image. I started duplicating the image in a new layer. I apply the channel mixer with settings similar to yours to the bottom layer. I then apply the channel mixer to the top layer, increasing blue/green to give good tone througout the image. I then erase away the blown highlights in the top layer, revealing the good highlight areas in the layer below. You can then adjust the layer opacity on the upper layer if desired to give some fine tuning ability.
This has worked great for me. Once done, I flatten, then might make a minor levels adjustment, and sometimes do a little dodging and burning to really dial it in the way I like it!
I hope this helps. I have a book that discusses BW conversion using calculations in Photoshop. I have not learned that method yet, but intend to look at it soon. If it gives better results than the channel mixer, I'll post here...
Thanks,
JD Anderson
Message edited by author 2003-10-18 11:59:16.
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10/18/2003 12:04:20 PM · #20 |
Originally posted by alansfreed:
Ben, out of curiosity, what effect does hue/saturation have on your shots as you describe? I was curious about this, and I'm finding that since I've converted images to greyscale, there's no effect at all when I tinker with hue/sat...?
Originally posted by Konador:
I convert to greyscale, convert to RGB, brightness/contrast, then hue=12 sat=6 to get a b&w like this:
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Oops, forgot to say, I check the Colourise box first :)
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10/18/2003 12:07:39 PM · #21 |
I only shoot in black and white mode. Then again, I am a black and white photographer!
~Audrey |
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10/18/2003 12:22:25 PM · #22 |
Heres a pic I took of Rita several years ago with the s75 |
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10/18/2003 12:56:32 PM · #23 |
Originally posted by Konador:
Oops, forgot to say, I check the Colourise box first :) |
Ahh -- that makes a difference :) Cool. |
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10/18/2003 12:56:39 PM · #24 |
i would avoid using the image mode/grayscale - method as it tends
to result in flat images.
leave the image RGB - use the saturation slider (image adjust/hue-saturation ) to remove the color - then i adjust the contrast up slightly - then run it through the unsharp mask
here's and example of an image done this way ( although i left some color in it - the BW part is much crisper than converting the image to grayscale
soup |
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10/18/2003 12:58:52 PM · #25 |
| The picture is straight from the camera. B&W with no adjustments. |
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