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09/15/2007 09:01:45 AM · #1 |
Forgive me if this is a dumb question...
I have a Vesta Thyristor Auto-2000AT. See pics:
I can't find the manual and nothing comes up when I Google it. It has 3 modes: A2, A1 & M. A2 & A1 are auto modes and relate to the length of lens (A2 being for longer lenses).
I set my Canon 350D up on M and tried various settings on the camera, e.g. F8/F11/F16, 1/30 - 1/200, ISO 100-1600. I also checked that the ISO setting on the flash was the same where poss (it only goes up to 400). In almost all cases it seemed severely under exposed. The nearest to proper exposure was obtained by upping the ISO to 1600! It seems like the flash is not giving the full output. I'm running it on freshly charged rechargeables. I would have thought so long as my speed/aperture are OK and ISO within range, the flash should take care of itself (I am guessing that the sensor on the front measures the light returning to estimate the flash duration?).
It's a very long time since I used this or any other flash. Am I missing something really obvious?
Message edited by author 2007-09-15 09:20:07. |
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09/15/2007 09:13:32 AM · #2 |
No pics attached...
A couple of guesses:
1) If you had to bump the ISO to 1600, then chances are, you're not seeing ANY of the flash output, but instead only seeing ambient light. Best guess as to reason why? Your flash and your camera are not "syncing" properly (i.e. the flash is going off either before or after the shutter, so none of the flash output is being recorded by the camera sensor)
2) Or maybe the subject distance is just too great to be using f/8, f/11 or f/16. At those apertures, you're going to have to be pretty close to the subject for the flash to make a difference (especially f/11 and f/16).
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09/15/2007 09:26:46 AM · #3 |
Phew! That was quick!! Pics of the flash unit are there now.
The setting dial on the Vesta implies that at ISO 100, you should get an effective range of 3.5m at F8.
If it's not synchronising, is that parameter I can change or is it simply not compatible? It is possible it is catching some of the flash but not all. I checked with almost no ambient and the flash does make a difference. The in-build unit seems to be more powerful and gives correct exposure over the test distance (about 2.5m).
Message edited by author 2007-09-15 09:27:56. |
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09/15/2007 09:39:52 AM · #4 |
How about two sample pics taken with the camera: one with the flash on, and one with it off (with *no* changes to camera settings in between). And then let us know the camera settings that were used.
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09/15/2007 12:09:19 PM · #5 |
It does not appear that this flash is TTL - so YOU are the computer that works all this out.
Google Guide Number and find the older methods of figureing out flash - there is a chart for this - ISO and aperture vs distance to the subject. Shutter speed just stays put - 1/60 to 1/125 range should work.
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09/15/2007 02:22:59 PM · #6 |
| I have one flash that just doesn't work with the d1x unless I have the pc(?) cable attached even when the flash is sitting in the hot shoe. Could this be a problem with your flash? |
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09/17/2007 02:27:26 PM · #7 |
| Thanks guys. I think I have got to grips with it now. It looks like you have to set the dial up for the film speed, read off the f number and set the shutter to the range suggested in one of the replies (1/60-1/125).. The main unit will work out how long the flash should be. In bounce, the mini flash needs to be on. I don't think it was working/turned on. Doh! The range is fairly limited in this mode. Direct seems OK. I shall experiment further and post pics if it doesn't look right then. |
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