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05/27/2007 03:36:51 PM · #1 |
Its something ive never tried before.. i have CS3
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05/27/2007 03:37:58 PM · #2 |
It's under Filter > Distort > Lens Correction i remember.
Or it was in CS2. |
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05/27/2007 03:43:31 PM · #3 |
..or with many lenses, you can open up your aperture to the max and extend your focal length, and not have to deal with post-processing to add a "fake" vignette at all. :-)
Also, in many cases, filters will produce vignette--both homemade and commercial filters.
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Message edited by author 2007-05-27 15:54:47.
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05/27/2007 03:58:24 PM · #4 |
| Or you can go to layer/new layer, set it to luminosity, and then draw black around the edges with a large, soft brush. adjust,rinse,repeat. |
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05/27/2007 04:07:35 PM · #5 |
In CS2, I do it by selecting an oval shape with about 25-50 pixel feathering, inverting the selection, and then an output layer adjustment.
Other times I just burn the corners, but that's harder for me to balance the edges correctly.
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05/27/2007 04:24:28 PM · #6 |
Originally posted by L2:
In CS2, I do it by selecting an oval shape with about 25-50 pixel feathering, inverting the selection, and then an output layer adjustment.
Other times I just burn the corners, but that's harder for me to balance the edges correctly. |
Sometimes, once I have the feathered selection, instead of using an adjustment (like Curves) I'll create a new layer and fill it with black, then adjust the layer opacity.
Message edited by author 2007-05-27 16:30:47. |
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05/27/2007 05:51:39 PM · #7 |
| I typically use a gradient adjustment layer - radial. Set the colour to black or the darkest colour in the image, at 150% scale, blend mode soft light, then reduce opacity to around 40% for subtlety. |
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05/27/2007 05:55:58 PM · #8 |
I Adobe Lightroom, there is an adjustment to correct vignetting by lightening the corners. I just move the slider the other way and darken them instead. :-)
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05/27/2007 06:01:27 PM · #9 |
| I use the rectangular marquee tool on a new layer in CS2, set the feather to 1/12 of the maximum pixel dimensions, select the entire area (select all doesn't work), invert the selection, fill it with black, then set the layer mode to overlay and play with the opacity. seems to get a fairly realistic effect. |
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05/27/2007 06:30:27 PM · #10 |
Originally posted by dwterry:
I Adobe Lightroom, there is an adjustment to correct vignetting by lightening the corners. I just move the slider the other way and darken them instead. :-) |
You can also do that in ACR for those who don't have Lightroom. However, I wouldnt' suggest using either method unless you don't plan on doing more editing in photoshop as this method is destructive. When I do a vignette it's always the last thing I do to a photo or I'll do it in a non-destructive way (i.e. on it's own layer).
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05/27/2007 07:10:40 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by yanko:
However, I wouldnt' suggest using either method unless you don't plan on doing more editing in photoshop as this method is destructive. When I do a vignette it's always the last thing I do to a photo or I'll do it in a non-destructive way (i.e. on it's own layer). |
You're right, of course.
I do this on "proofs" ... images that haven't even been touched by Photoshop. My main reason is that Photoshop takes so long to do anything, that in order to save time, I try to get my "proofs" as presentable as possible straight out of Adobe Lightroom and then only edit those images that customers want to have printed. So the vignette ends up on the proofs that they see. But if they order an image, I'll go back and reprocess the image without the vignette before taking it into Photoshop to do editing.
Here is an example. None of these images have been edited yet. Photoshop's only involvement was to run a "batch process" which automatically resized and added a border to each image just before uploading.
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05/27/2007 08:18:54 PM · #12 |
Originally posted by dwterry:
Here is an example. None of these images have been edited yet. Photoshop's only involvement was to run a "batch process" which automatically resized and added a border to each image just before uploading. |
Damn Dave they are great.. what lens was you using? |
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05/27/2007 08:38:51 PM · #13 |
I normally do vignetting by hand using a burn layer in PS. Doing it manually with an airbrush is certainly more work, but it allows better control than an automatic version. If I do an automatic shape, I'll use a burn layer, and use circular gradient fill to fill from white in the centre to black at the edges, set the layer opacity to an apropriate level for the corners, and the adjust the curves to play with where the vignetting cuts in, and the sharpness of the edge.
The Adobe Lightroom examples look really great. I've often wished Picasa had a few more simple features like this, for quick and easy non-destructive editing.
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05/27/2007 11:11:33 PM · #14 |
Originally posted by Simms:
what lens was you using? |
I had to go check out the EXIF data to be sure (I wish DPC would automatically import EXIF data) but it looks like I used the 70-200 2.8L on everything posted here. I used the 24-70mm 2.8L for a few shots in tight quarters, but these were mostly on the long end of the 70-200 lens.
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06/05/2007 11:14:50 AM · #15 |
| I make sure that I have a white background. I make a circular selection by going to the approximate center of the area I want to vignette. Hold down the Alt key while making the selection. Then I invert the selection, feather about 35, then press delete. Usually works well for me. |
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06/05/2007 11:44:32 AM · #16 |
Originally posted by yanko:
However, I wouldnt' suggest using either method unless you don't plan on doing more editing in photoshop as this method is destructive. |
There is a time and a place for non-destructive editing, but some of us don't have time for it. I rarely do "non-destructive" editing on anything but "art" photos.
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06/05/2007 12:03:13 PM · #17 |
Originally posted by L2:
Other times I just burn the corners, but that's harder for me to balance the edges correctly. |
Organic unbalanced edges are the spice of life.
I create a solid color black adjustment layer
I set my brush very big, at about 30%, and black
I paint the matte of the solid color with black and white correspondingly until it's roughed in (the shape and opacity is about right in every section of the photo)
Sometimes I use a gaussian blur to smooth it - large numbers usually - like around 100 on the blur
Set the solid color layer to overlay, softlight, hardlight, luminosity,
Set the transparancy of that layer (hit "v" to get to the select tool, then push the numbers at the top of your keyboard to change opacity - 5 = 50%, or hit two numbers quickly to create a 78% for instance) I find using keystrokes to set the opacity very fast and more creative than clicking that teeny tiny slider - but that's just me.
Hope that helps.
Message edited by author 2007-06-05 12:03:58. |
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