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05/03/2007 04:31:27 AM · #1 |
 BAMartin,  meyers, Delta_6, jackal9, jonfrommk,  juniemoon, krnodil, liltritter, American_Horse, ingridblue, mamba
USING PHOTOSHOP - BRIEF OVERVIEW OF TOOLS, TIPS, TRICKS & SHORTCUTS
Mentor for this Group & Topic: wavelength
Topic Author: Art Roflmao
Introduction and Disclaimers
For this first topic, I am going to try and cover some of the basics of the tools that I use. I have to confess that there are still several tools I have not explored so I am hoping the other mentors and student will feel free to discuss ones I have left out.
TOOL PALETTES AND WORKSPACE OVERVIEW
The first thing to remember about the Photoshop workspace is that it is highly customizable, so what you see in my workspace may look very different from your own. Mine is fairly generic / default-ish. Many of you may already know this, but you can drag palettes right out of their box and into another one, so you could have all your favortie palettes in one toolbox if that works for you.
Many times I like to move the palettes around or stretch the layers one out so I can read the titles and the workspace can get pretty messy.
 I love being able to simply reset them by clicking (on the top menu) Window | Workspace | Reset Palette Locations. This is useful when you resize the application window as well.
PHYSICAL TOOLS
Mouse or Tablet, Keyboard, Monitor, Printer. The Monitor issues will be covered in a later topic and the printer will not be covered, so let's talk about the input devices. My weapon of choice for editing in Photoshop is a wireless mouse - two of them actually. One is always charging while I use the other because there is nothing more aggravating than your mouse dying while you are trying to create radioactive breath in a Godzilla pic - y'all know what I'm talking about, I'm sure. :) The Duke Nukem mousepad is optional, but recommended. I do have a Wacom tablet purchased from another member here on DPC. I tried it but it slowed me down so much I haven't taken the time to get used to it.
 
 I invite any insight, tips, feedback, pros & cons of tablets vs. mice in this thread.
Ok, the second most important device for me is the keyboard! Use of the keyboard for switching tools and adjusting tool settings can speed up your editing process immensely. For that reason, I recommend that you get very familiar with the keystrokes for each of the primary editing tools on the tool palette. You can always find out what those are by mousing over the tool. Here are the ones I mainly use: Mask: M, Wand: W, Brush: B, Eraser: E, Blur: R, Paint Bucket: G, Text: T, Healing Brush: J
The left and right square brackets adjust the size of the tool you are using - this comes in very handy! [ = smaller, ] = bigger. Also, the SHIFT key used in conjunction with one of the tool letter shortcuts will cycle through the variations of that tool (i.e. SHIFT+R = toggle through Blur, Sharpen, Smudge).
The keyboard shortcut commands are also faster than clicking on the menus for common tasks like New File (ALT+F+N), Save As (CTRL+SHIFT+S), Resize (ALT+I+I) - get to know these shortcuts, they can increase your efficiency and keep you from dumping all the work on your poor, cramped up mouse hand.
LAYERS PALETTE OVERVIEW
I am talking about standard image layers - adjustment layers and layer blending modes will be covered in a future topic. Bear_Music covered layers quite well here, so I will just reiterate that the use of layers is a critical part of my process. I always duplicate a layer (CTRL+J) before I apply a filter or effect or start editing it - this is essentially creating a backup. You can always undo (CTRL+Z), but not if you have exceeded your set number of history steps, so a backup is always good. Also useful for bringing selective parts of the original image back into the picture.
HISTORY PALETTE
The History palette is the main place where all of your editing steps are recorded and can be undone.
You can setup complete, detailed tracking of your editing in the General Preferences. This is very useful for Challenge entries validation.
The History palette also holds special powers when it comes to actually editing your image. When used with the History Brush (Y), you can selectively undo edits upon edits in varying degrees by setting the opacity of the History Brush. More on this when we discuss techniques.
CLOSING SUMMARY AND ASSIGNMENTS
That's pretty much all I am going to cover for now. I do not want to reinvent the wheel, so I will reference again Bear's posts in a previous workshop that covered specific things in much greater detail. There is no assignment, so I can break the one topic per week rule and start working on the next topic (Working with Selection tools and Masks) and post it by Sunday.
The discussion for this topic should focus on general working processes, methods, etc. as well as Q&A about related issues. Feedback on the format, quantity and quality of the presentation is also open for discussion so we can improve as we move forward.
Recommended additional reading:
Basic Photoshop Workflow
Basic Examination and Functions of Photoshop
Photoshop Layers: the Basics
Photoshop Workflow: Where Do We Start and How Do We Proceed?
Message edited by author 2007-05-03 15:29:08. |
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05/03/2007 09:26:22 AM · #2 |
| Art ROCKS! I'm actually awake early so if any of the group are on, fire away. I'll give the lesson a full readin' now ;) |
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05/03/2007 09:59:30 AM · #3 |
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05/03/2007 10:22:35 AM · #4 |
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05/03/2007 10:32:15 AM · #5 |
This stuff is fairly familiar to me as I have been using PS7 for just under a year now, I'm waiting for the heavier stuff, especially layers. I am still reading it of course.
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05/03/2007 10:38:15 AM · #6 |
Dave, that's good and hopefully we can get to the heavier stuff quickly.
I want to encourage everyone to get to the Additional reading, Bear's posts are quite thorough and informative.
I think the section where he explained layers as film really opened my eyes. Having some experience in the film darkroom, I can now just imagine the light flowing down through the layers to expose the paper underneath. (well, not quite, since the base layer isn't a negative ;P ) |
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05/03/2007 10:39:36 AM · #7 |
Yeah I know what you mean, I also loved the sketch analogy.
I am having a go with layer masks using bear's tutorial.
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05/03/2007 10:45:13 AM · #8 |
I have a wacom tablet, and I've found it much easier to use than the mouse for selecting things and drawing. I have the tablet set up in a 1:1 mapping mode, instead of a relative position mode (like how a mouse works), so my position on the tablet corresponds directly to the screen.
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05/03/2007 12:06:57 PM · #9 |
I'll just post something for ya, to maybe help you out on making sure your DPC specific workflow is solid, and in some part your general workflow.
I have no idea how I did this: 
This is a very dangerous thing in a basic editing challenge, and I half expected to get a DQ request. I have yet to reproduce it.
I had intended to go back and run some advanced editing to improve the results, but now I have little chance because I forgot to keep track of my changes or at least save the final .psd file. I should know better by now, but I got lazy.
Feel free to ask about any of Bear_Music's writings also in here. They're part of this first lesson technically, and should be included in our discussions.
Message edited by author 2007-05-03 12:07:26. |
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05/03/2007 12:48:07 PM · #10 |
| I'm going to be a little quiet on this for a bit, I'll be checking back every few days to see what's happening but I'm in the midst of exams at the moment so all my effort is going into those. |
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05/03/2007 03:47:33 PM · #11 |
Just an FYI on the references to the recommended reading list. Bear_Music has consolidated all the information into one post in the Tips & Tricks forum, so if you want to read them without the clutter of the workshop discussions click here.
Thanks Robert! |
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05/03/2007 05:14:20 PM · #12 |
| Have been reading the previous workshop by Bear Music. I think I understand most of it, but realize that I have not done layers correctly. I have been using adjustment layers, one on top of the other, instead of separating them into copies. This is where I really need to understand. Do we try to use the info provided, then ask questions when we get stuck? Just wondering. Haven't really cracked open the editing using layers as copies yet. |
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05/03/2007 05:29:30 PM · #13 |
Originally posted by JunieMoon:
Have been reading the previous workshop by Bear Music. I think I understand most of it, but realize that I have not done layers correctly. I have been using adjustment layers, one on top of the other, instead of separating them into copies. This is where I really need to understand. Do we try to use the info provided, then ask questions when we get stuck? Just wondering. Haven't really cracked open the editing using layers as copies yet. |
Yes, ask questions as you try to implement the techniques prescribed by mentors (past and present).
I'm not quite sure I'm with ya, are you speaking of copying the initial layer (background) to a new layer before making adjustments? You should keep your layers fairly simple to begin with. Start with a levels or brightness/contrast layer, and then a hue/saturation layer above that. You'll find as you add other layers such as selective color, and channel mixer that the order in which you implement the layers will make a difference, Especially if you're working with two different layers that affect colors. |
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05/03/2007 05:32:30 PM · #14 |
Originally posted by wavelength:
Originally posted by JunieMoon:
Have been reading the previous workshop by Bear Music. I think I understand most of it, but realize that I have not done layers correctly. I have been using adjustment layers, one on top of the other, instead of separating them into copies. This is where I really need to understand. Do we try to use the info provided, then ask questions when we get stuck? Just wondering. Haven't really cracked open the editing using layers as copies yet. |
Yes, ask questions as you try to implement the techniques prescribed by mentors (past and present).
I'm not quite sure I'm with ya, are you speaking of copying the initial layer (background) to a new layer before making adjustments? You should keep your layers fairly simple to begin with. Start with a levels or brightness/contrast layer, and then a hue/saturation layer above that. You'll find as you add other layers such as selective color, and channel mixer that the order in which you implement the layers will make a difference, Especially if you're working with two different layers that affect colors. |
I just use like presets. In other words, I do brightness and contrast, then do saturation, etc. without opening up new images. It is just basically doing adjustment on top of adjustment on only one copy.
If I want to make a change, I have to go into history and undo to the point I want to change then redo. I think this is where I have been erring.
Message edited by author 2007-05-03 17:33:55. |
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05/03/2007 05:40:05 PM · #15 |
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05/03/2007 05:41:46 PM · #16 |
Originally posted by American_Horse:
I'm sober, and present. |
sober is not required, just don't get too smashed to learn sumpin. |
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05/03/2007 05:54:03 PM · #17 |
Originally posted by JunieMoon:
Originally posted by wavelength:
Originally posted by JunieMoon:
Have been reading the previous workshop by Bear Music. I think I understand most of it, but realize that I have not done layers correctly. I have been using adjustment layers, one on top of the other, instead of separating them into copies. This is where I really need to understand. Do we try to use the info provided, then ask questions when we get stuck? Just wondering. Haven't really cracked open the editing using layers as copies yet. |
Yes, ask questions as you try to implement the techniques prescribed by mentors (past and present).
I'm not quite sure I'm with ya, are you speaking of copying the initial layer (background) to a new layer before making adjustments? You should keep your layers fairly simple to begin with. Start with a levels or brightness/contrast layer, and then a hue/saturation layer above that. You'll find as you add other layers such as selective color, and channel mixer that the order in which you implement the layers will make a difference, Especially if you're working with two different layers that affect colors. |
I just use like presets. In other words, I do brightness and contrast, then do saturation, etc. without opening up new images. It is just basically doing adjustment on top of adjustment on only one copy.
If I want to make a change, I have to go into history and undo to the point I want to change then redo. I think this is where I have been erring. |
Okay, I'm trying to wrap my head around your meaning of "without opening up new images". What I think we're looking for is your initial layers to look something like this:
If that is (roughly) what you're seeing then you're pretty much on track. If not we'll start from scratch and go through how you create layers.
edit - I'm not trying to be obtuse, I'm just trying not to make assumptions on what you are speaking of.
Message edited by author 2007-05-03 17:55:52. |
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05/03/2007 06:57:50 PM · #18 |
| I think to date my biggest mistake has been only saving as a jpg, after flattening all layers. |
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05/03/2007 07:17:21 PM · #19 |
Originally posted by BAMartin:
I think to date my biggest mistake has been only saving as a jpg, after flattening all layers. |
Good point - we are not really covering workflow, but will touch on file saving pitfalls because they are as important as layers for being able to go back and edit differently. For any file you spend time editing and creating multiple layers in doing so, always SAVE AS a jpg and save the layered file in PSD format. |
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05/03/2007 07:28:06 PM · #20 |
Original
 
First attempt, did really bad. I tried to straighten image by 3 to the left, then did not open any new layers. Just worked with this one only. Adjusted brightness and contrast, cropped, then used convert to black and white. After that I used levels to improve contrast, then went to another screen that let me adjust color. I chose more green, I think. After that I went to anther screen that let me adjust contrast. I used setting called midtone. Then I tried reducing noise by increasing details to 76, radius to 4, and I think that was it. After that I sharpened to 111 and increased radius to 1.6. Tried saving for web. Think I was able to reduce it to 680 by around 437. Can I give you a better way to try to explain how I do things to make it easier on you? any format that I can do it to make it clearer. This is the first time using elements, and needless to say I am totally confused.
Message edited by author 2007-05-03 19:31:21. |
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05/03/2007 07:37:53 PM · #21 |
I'm editing an old image using a layer mask to get the sky darker and as there is a tree in the pic I was thinking it was going to take me ages to get it all done, with the spaces between the branches and all, but using the magic wand tool is incredible! W, click, G, click. What a time saver!
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05/03/2007 08:13:12 PM · #22 |
Originally posted by JunieMoon:
Original
First attempt, did really bad. I tried to straighten image by 3 to the left, then did not open any new layers. Just worked with this one only. Adjusted brightness and contrast, cropped, then used convert to black and white. After that I used levels to improve contrast, then went to another screen that let me adjust color. I chose more green, I think. After that I went to anther screen that let me adjust contrast. I used setting called midtone. Then I tried reducing noise by increasing details to 76, radius to 4, and I think that was it. After that I sharpened to 111 and increased radius to 1.6. Tried saving for web. Think I was able to reduce it to 680 by around 437. Can I give you a better way to try to explain how I do things to make it easier on you? any format that I can do it to make it clearer. This is the first time using elements, and needless to say I am totally confused. |
Okay, we're going to try the same thing but in layers now. The straightening and cropping part is fine. That's how you would start any post-processing usually. Most often if I see anything that needs to be cloned out or if I want to do some more advance changing of the scene or moving thing around I'll do that first to the base layer.
At this point, as Art discussed, you'll want to save the rotated/cloned/cropped image as a .psd file. Go to file/save as and select .psd as the file format. I do this so that I can just hit save at any point later.
I'll have to try to remember elements so I don't give you conflicting directions, I have CS here at work (yes, productivity is waning as I type :P ) and CS2 now at home. I lost my elements disc along with the key code when my old PC crashed :(
After you have this base image, you should go to layer/new adjustment layer/and choose brightness/contrast, this will bring up an initail layer properties dialog, just choose OK for now and the second dialog box will come up. Adjust according to taste. Levels and Curves are more powerful tools, but with great power... comes great...ummm, forget that analogy. They're just more complimuhcated.
You can get to the same desaturated (black/white) in a few ways in Elements (that I know of) one of which I'll go over. Go back to layer/new adjustment layer, and choose Hue/Saturation. Click OK again on the New Layer properties dialog, this will bring up a dialog with 3 sliders, take the saturation slider and move it all the way to the left to desaturate the image.
Alternately, there should be a small half/half black/white circle at the bottom of the layers pallette that will bring up a menu of available adjustment layers.
You now have an Image that is not destructively edited, you can go back and change these layer at any point in your future (and more complicated) processing.
No, for those astute pupils, this is not the BEST way to do this, it's just an example of a simple set of layers.
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05/03/2007 08:19:47 PM · #23 |
Just watching and waiting.
More interested in Displacement Maps.
I know, I know,.......watching, waiting.
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05/03/2007 08:45:22 PM · #24 |
OK, I took a very old photo to work on. I used one where I had forgotten to change my white balance, and tried to save it. Here is what I got
Original 
After Processing  |
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05/03/2007 10:03:21 PM · #25 |
A more simple and (hopefully) more true to life white balance correction can be had by simply using a levels layer.
Create the layer, and use one of the three color droppers/pickers to select an area that should be fully white/black/gray per what dropper you select.
I selected the black point at the right side of the base of the largest stem.
Of course, only the person who was there can (hopefully) remember what it really looke like that day.
Message edited by author 2007-05-03 22:04:33. |
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I love being able to simply reset them by clicking (on the top menu) Window | Workspace | Reset Palette Locations. This is useful when you resize the application window as well.
I invite any insight, tips, feedback, pros & cons of tablets vs. mice in this thread.
