Blur with 50mm lens - Why? - DPChallenge Forums

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 16-35 f/4 ED VR

04/11/2007 10:22:43 AM · #1

OK...I just want to make sure I'm the error in this problem. I bought my lens, and have been having fun taking pictures while it's on the tripod. When it's not on the tripod, as hard as I try to keep the camera steady, and as fast as the shutter speed is set, I still get some blur. Is this me or is there something wrong with the lens?

darnok

Nikon D850

04/11/2007 10:25:51 AM · #2

Can you post an example? What aperture are you shooting at? At f1.8 there will be little DOF if you are close are close to your subject.

MelonMusketeer

Nikon D7000

Nikon MF 50mm f/1.4

04/11/2007 10:36:23 AM · #3

Look thru the lens into a light from both ends, and see if it is clear and clean. Also check camera settings. The camera may be set on closest subject priority or spot focus, and not focusing where you expect. On "D" Nikon lenses, there is a little slotted shaft that connects the camera's focus motor to the lens, have a look at that. On the back of the lens, it turns when you turn the focus ring by hand. If it does not, then the focus gear is broken inside the lens.
Check diopter adjustment on the camera viewfinder also, if you are manually focusing. I have had this happen to me when not being careful, and missed a few good images because of it.
Post some fuzzy pics for us to see?

Hope you get it worked out ok.

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 16-35 f/4 ED VR

04/11/2007 10:39:30 AM · #4

First shot was f6.3 at 1/5 seconds

Shot take while I held the camera and used the table to stablize myself.

Second shot was f5.6 at 1/5 seconds

Place the camera on the table and clicked the shutter button.

darnok

Nikon D850

04/11/2007 11:01:31 AM · #5

A shutter speed of 1/5 is way to low to handhold a lens, even if you try to stabilise yourself. The basic rule is that the shutter speed should be at least the reciprocal of the focal length. So for a 50mm lens (if you include the effect of the cropping factor), you should use at least 1/75.

I see the shot was taken at f6.3, the lens goes down to f1.8 which is part of the appeal of a 50mm. Try using a larger aperture, maybe f2.8. You could also bump up the ISO a bit, I use ISO 400. A bit of noise is better than a blurry picture.

At the same aperture the 50mm will easily outperform the 18-70mm in terms of sharpness.

Bugzeye

Fisher Price Kid-Tough Digital

04/11/2007 11:07:51 AM · #6

Were these shots in focus through the viewfinder? This is just a guess, But perhaps you are a little too close to your subject. Try backing away just a tad. I find that my 50mm doesnt focus well on anything closer than 2-3 feet.

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 16-35 f/4 ED VR

04/11/2007 11:13:47 AM · #7

I was about 50cm to 75cm (Sorry, don't know feet) away from the subject...maybe more. I was close just because I wanted to use the table to stabilize myself. I was just goofing around. Other shots I took were also blurred, but I already deleted them. This blur wasn't that bad and I thought I could play around with it.

darnok

Nikon D850

04/11/2007 01:15:53 PM · #8

Originally posted by heavyj:

According to the distance scale on my 50, the minimum focus distance is 0.45m, so you should be OK in that respect.

Fixed a typo...

Message edited by author 2007-04-14 06:46:48.

04/11/2007 01:20:56 PM · #9

What you need here is a camera with in body IS/VR/SR... although I think 1/5 of a sec is pushing it (4 stops), 1/10-15th is certainly doable.

Unfortunately, for those without Shake Reduction, you'll have to shoot at at least 1/50th.

Prof_Fate

04/11/2007 01:24:30 PM · #10

Raziel got it nailed - 1/5 of a second with an IS lens is possible, but even then it's tough to do it reliably.

Try 1/60 to 1/80 for a shutter speed and you should be OK. YOu can sometimes get slower with a heavier lens or body - the heavier gear sits more steadily in your hands and is less subject to movement by heartbeats and such than lighter gear.

kyebosh

Canon EOS-20D

Canon EF 80-200mm f/2.8L

04/11/2007 01:25:27 PM · #11

.45m not cm and also try to get your exposure length down to 1/50 or faster, 1/5 is much much too short.

04/11/2007 01:31:44 PM · #12

Originally posted by Raziel:

Does anyone know why you have to include the crop factor in this formula? It seems to me that it shouldn't make any difference at all, as the physical focal length is 50mm no matter what sized sensor its used on...

Sony Sonnar T* 35mm f/2.8 ZA

04/11/2007 01:32:23 PM · #13

OK...I'll try that next time around. Thanks for all the answers!!

kyebosh

Canon EOS-20D

Canon EF 80-200mm f/2.8L

04/11/2007 01:33:54 PM · #14

Originally posted by option:

Originally posted by Raziel:
A shutter speed of 1/5 is way to low to handhold a lens, even if you try to stabilise yourself. The basic rule is that the shutter speed should be at least the reciprocal of the focal length. So for a 50mm lens (if you include the effect of the cropping factor), you should use at least 1/75.

Does anyone know why you have to include the crop factor in this formula? It seems to me that it shouldn't make any difference at all, as the physical focal length is 50mm no matter what sized sensor its used on...

Say you want to make a print, you have to upsize the crop sensors capture more than you do with a full frame sensor. Because of this any motion blur gets magnified. The lens might physically be a 50mm but it's acting like a 50mm x the crop factor.

salmiakki

Apple iPhone 16 Pro

04/11/2007 01:57:24 PM · #15

Try using the shutter priority setting on your camera. Set the shutter speed to 1/75 (or faster) and let the camera pick the aperture. It will help you expose your shot correctly and reduce the likelihood of camera shake.

Spork99

OM System OM-1

Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro

04/11/2007 02:57:32 PM · #16

Originally posted by option:

If the subject is moving, as most little kids tend to do, IS/VR/SR won't help one bit.

paddles

Pentax K10D

Pentax FA 50mm f/1.4 AF

04/13/2007 11:58:55 PM · #17

I think Spazmo got it in one. Even if your camera is completely stable, the only people who are likely to be completely motionless over 1/5 of a second are dead people. With your subject being that close, the blur from their motion will be magnified.

Artyste

Sony Ericsson W810i

Tamron SP AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di for Pentax

04/14/2007 01:50:29 AM · #18

Originally posted by Spazmo99:

Originally posted by option:
What you need here is a camera with in body IS/VR/SR... although I think 1/5 of a sec is pushing it (4 stops), 1/10-15th is certainly doable.

Unfortunately, for those without Shake Reduction, you'll have to shoot at at least 1/50th.

If the subject is moving, as most little kids tend to do, IS/VR/SR won't help one bit.

I concur. Using IS/AS/SR/VR whatever.. is useless when shooting people. (unless it's a damn static studio shot.. then you'd probably be on a tripod anyway)

Message edited by author 2007-04-14 01:50:57.

nhuto

Canon EOS-40D

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM

04/14/2007 11:54:30 AM · #19

Nikon D80 has a crop factor of 1.5x - 1.5 x 50 = 75...You need the shutter speed of at least 1/75 sec to prevent camera shake. 1/5 is too slow for handheld @ 50mm (75mm)and also very slow to stop action (kid usually don't stay still)

NSN

Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro

04/14/2007 02:27:45 PM · #20

If someone is posing for the camera, 1/30 should be fine, will be sharp with any IS system, but too slow for a non-IS lens. With kids, its a little different, but I certainly wouldn't hesitate to shoot at 1/30 sec with my 50 if I was taking, say, snaps of my friends. If they can stand and wait for a P&S flash, they can stand still enough to not be blurry at 1/30 sec.

edit: for hyperactive kids, though, you will want a shutter speed a stop or so faster, something in the 1/60 - 1/100 range.

Message edited by author 2007-04-14 14:29:03.

Spork99

OM System OM-1

04/14/2007 03:17:07 PM · #21

Originally posted by option:

If someone is posing for the camera, 1/30 should be fine, will be sharp with any IS system, but too slow for a non-IS lens.

If someone is standing still enough for 1/30 with IS, they are standing still enough for 1/30 without IS. The IS is totally irrelevant when it comes to subject motion. IS ONLY affects blur due to camera motion, nothing else.

Message edited by author 2007-04-14 15:17:53.