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DPChallenge Forums >> Hardware and Software >> Monitor Calibration - Realistic Question
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03/13/2007 06:44:13 PM · #1
Say I do a manual calibration, on my CRT, setting the white point brightness by moving the gun, checking the gamma level, and calibrating the phosphors.

Then, say I use some electronic calibration hardware. Push a button and done.

Does the electronic calibration provide any SIGNIFICANT benefit or exactness to a print as compared to the screen, within the natural variation of common printing places such as DPCPrints? By natural variation, I refer to the emission light of the monitor versus the reflective light of a print (i.e. ambient light differences)

It seems to me that if one takes the patience to do it manually, the results from the print will be very close. Then, is the hardware calibration just a matter of ease?

I ask only because I calibrate manually (using Adobe Gamma, et al) and the colors from my thermal dye sublimation printer are spot on or nearly so to what I see on the screen....as long as the ambient light is ok.

Thanks,
Paul
03/13/2007 07:10:22 PM · #2
Color Managed Workflow from camera to final print
03/13/2007 07:14:54 PM · #3
I just bought a laptop with Windows Vista and it won't save when I calibrate my monitor. Every time I restart my laptop it goes back to the computer defalt settings. Anyone else dealing with this?

I like my old computer better!
03/13/2007 07:30:40 PM · #4
I don't have Vista but it is likely reverting back to the "default" calibration. You have to find a way to set your new settings as default.

LIkely you will name your new setting and save it some kind of way and then find I to set that named file as your default.

Originally posted by connie:

I just bought a laptop with Windows Vista and it won't save when I calibrate my monitor. Every time I restart my laptop it goes back to the computer defalt settings. Anyone else dealing with this?

I like my old computer better!

03/13/2007 08:32:39 PM · #5
Thanks! That is quite a document. I have applied much of that already, I'll have to go back a check a few other things out.

It seems though that if a monitor is not shielded from direct ambient light sources, no degree of monitor calibration will help since the eye won't be able to distinguish a continuity between monitor and background.

The most critical component of calibration seems to be the brightness of the monitor. How then does hardware calibration benefit over the eye? I'm just sure if I will see a reasonable difference.

Opinions? Prior experiences anyone?

Originally posted by thegrandwazoo:

Color Managed Workflow from camera to final print
03/13/2007 08:37:00 PM · #6
Go to one of the current challenge photos up for voting. Scroll down ad look at that "bar" going across the bottom. That bar should have distinct squares all the way across. If you see that at either end, the squares are "running together" where you can't tell where one end and the other begins, then your "brightness/contrast calibration is off.

See if you can fix it by eyeballing it and fiddling with your monitor and let me know how it goes!

Kenskid

Originally posted by PGerst:

Thanks! That is quite a document. I have applied much of that already, I'll have to go back a check a few other things out.

It seems though that if a monitor is not shielded from direct ambient light sources, no degree of monitor calibration will help since the eye won't be able to distinguish a continuity between monitor and background.

The most critical component of calibration seems to be the brightness of the monitor. How then does hardware calibration benefit over the eye? I'm just sure if I will see a reasonable difference.

Opinions? Prior experiences anyone?

Originally posted by thegrandwazoo:

Color Managed Workflow from camera to final print

03/13/2007 09:09:17 PM · #7
I know what thats for, and I do see every shade. My monitor IS calibrated. My question was specific to the difference in the hardware versus software calibration.

Originally posted by kenskid:

Go to one of the current challenge photos up for voting. Scroll down ad look at that "bar" going across the bottom....
See if you can fix it by eyeballing it and fiddling with your monitor and let me know how it goes!

Kenskid
03/13/2007 09:26:54 PM · #8
I would guess there is NO difference between the two if you can eyeball it to correct calibration. If what you see on your screen is printing out on your printer then you're ok.

Originally posted by PGerst:

I know what thats for, and I do see every shade. My monitor IS calibrated. My question was specific to the difference in the hardware versus software calibration.

Originally posted by kenskid:

Go to one of the current challenge photos up for voting. Scroll down ad look at that "bar" going across the bottom....
See if you can fix it by eyeballing it and fiddling with your monitor and let me know how it goes!

Kenskid

03/13/2007 09:39:34 PM · #9
Your monitor maybe in fact calibrated but not profiled and there is a difference. When working on a picture in RGB mode using the default profile you calibrated your monitor in the colors are probably accurate and so are the colors in your web browser, but if you want to soft proof you image in photoshop to ensure the accuracy of a print, then maybe photoshop will fool you into thinking the colors are correct, wich they are not because the conversion is done from a profile that doesn't represent your monitor real gamut but instead a generic gamut IN WICH you calibrated your monitor.

Second point, by doing a manual calibration with adobe gamma, you generally start with a generic profile, usually sRGB or ADOBE RGB, that doesn't represent the actual gamut of your monitor and the gamut of that base profile may actually be smaller than your monitor's gamut. That way you'd be throwing away a lot of color that your monitor can display and that you will never use because the base profile in wich you calibrated your monitor is too small.

The only way to ensure accurate viewing AND proofing of your images, using all the colors that you have available given your equipment is to hardware measure your monitor using a device like the pantone huey for exemple and letting the software do both the calibration and the profiling for your monitors based on these reading.
03/13/2007 09:57:38 PM · #10
Thanks. What you described is what I had thought the technical difference would be. How about the actual when it comes to the print? Are the variations from one print shop to another different that the variability is greater than that of pure accurate calibration?

I do proof all the time. In fact, when I'm planning to print out to the dye-sub printer, I'll work IN the colorspace of the printer. The resulting print is essentially what I see on the screen, except for minor differences for the ambient light reflectance off the print (versus emission).

Originally posted by nicklevy:

Your monitor maybe in fact calibrated but not profiled and there is a difference. When working on a picture in RGB mode using the default profile you calibrated your monitor in the colors are probably accurate and so are the colors in your web browser, but if you want to soft proof you image in photoshop to ensure the accuracy of a print, then maybe photoshop will fool you into thinking the colors are correct, wich they are not because the conversion is done from a profile that doesn't represent your monitor real gamut but instead a generic gamut IN WICH you calibrated your monitor.

Second point, by doing a manual calibration with adobe gamma, you generally start with a generic profile, usually sRGB or ADOBE RGB, that doesn't represent the actual gamut of your monitor and the gamut of that base profile may actually be smaller than your monitor's gamut. That way you'd be throwing away a lot of color that your monitor can display and that you will never use because the base profile in wich you calibrated your monitor is too small.

The only way to ensure accurate viewing AND proofing of your images, using all the colors that you have available given your equipment is to hardware measure your monitor using a device like the pantone huey for exemple and letting the software do both the calibration and the profiling for your monitors based on these reading.
03/15/2007 08:24:55 AM · #11
Bump to top for fresh replies. But I word my question better here.

So, I would assume that if I had a photo printed by 3 places, there would be some variability in the prints. Is this variability greater than the difference between slow, careful manual calibration versus the hardware calibration?
03/15/2007 08:46:24 AM · #12
Originally posted by PGerst:

Bump to top for fresh replies. But I word my question better here.

So, I would assume that if I had a photo printed by 3 places, there would be some variability in the prints. Is this variability greater than the difference between slow, careful manual calibration versus the hardware calibration?


Depends what sort of printing we're talking about. If it's a proper photo lab with Fuji Frontier or Noritsu photo-paper printers, you're printing on the same stock (Fuji Crystal Archive gloss for instance) and as long as the photo lab do no colour adjustment of your files (which they probably will unless you specifically tell them not to), you're going to have physically identical prints as long as the machines are calibrated properly. DPCPrints falls into this category.

If you're getting cheaper dye-sub or inkjet prints done, then you can't be sure - it depends entirely on the printer and calibration at the printing computer's end. You can download ICC profiles for specific models of printer if you google around, but that assumes you know what your work is being printed on.
03/15/2007 04:57:19 PM · #13
you could always call the lab you want to use and some will have a downloadable profile that you can embed. I would say with that and a calibrated monitor you should get exact results.
03/15/2007 05:04:07 PM · #14
The 'problem' is that your eye actively works against being a good tool for profiling a monitor.

Ever noticed how orange the light is indoors and how blue it is outdoors ? Doesn't it just visually drive you nuts when you see the green light from a fluorescent tube ? No ? Well that's because your eye adjusts most of the time to effectively 'auto whitebalance' all the time.

Ever noticed how you are completely unable to see when you walk outdoors from being in a dark room ? No ? Because your eye dynamically compensates for the change in brightness

So you can't trust your eye to ever give you a good calibration. That's the basic flaw with any software based compensation. Your eye works to remove the difference.

Hardware calibration & profiling is the exact opposite - you have a measured, unchanging evaluation of the light hitting the sensor.
03/15/2007 05:06:08 PM · #15
Originally posted by connie:

I just bought a laptop with Windows Vista and it won't save when I calibrate my monitor. Every time I restart my laptop it goes back to the computer defalt settings. Anyone else dealing with this?

I like my old computer better!


There's a known flaw in Vista that makes the colour management effectively broken. If the machine ever goes in to the system mode (where the background greys out) (Suspend, hibernate, system query) then the profiles are lost and you need to reboot.

Supposed to be fixed in the first service pack whenever that gets released.
03/16/2007 12:50:06 AM · #16
Originally posted by Jmnuggy:

you could always call the lab you want to use and some will have a downloadable profile that you can embed. I would say with that and a calibrated monitor you should get exact results.

or just go to //www.drycreekphoto.com

I use a calibration device because every time I looked at my monitor, it seemed off, so I tweaked it. Spent too much time doing that, then the eye1 went on clearance because the new version came out, so the price was right...
03/16/2007 01:25:04 AM · #17
Originally posted by PGerst:

Bump to top for fresh replies. But I word my question better here.

So, I would assume that if I had a photo printed by 3 places, there would be some variability in the prints. Is this variability greater than the difference between slow, careful manual calibration versus the hardware calibration?


walmart ritz and costco? Yes.
H&H, whcc, mpix - no.

It also depends...with pro labs (all i use anymore as the walmarts/ritz/costco places are VERY inconsistent and usually correct color in large batches...not a good idea when every 10th print is from another customer/camera) The weenies at these places DO NOT look at the prints as they print - too high a volume, lesser training, no customer issues to deal with if things are a bit off. The pro labs are consistent or the pros move and the labs fold up. They sell themselves as consistent, from print to print, week to week, year to year!

Pro labs offer 3 levels color, umm, control. The most expensive is to let the lab do it - color, contrast, density correction print by print. The mid level, the most popular from those I talk with, is either a batch (for team sports or schools or studio work where the color and lighting at capture are well controlled) or a simple color/contrast at the start of your order.
The least expensive is to let the customer control the color (my choice - i'm cheap and can control my color). DO a test print, or several. stay with one lab. ask the lab for a test card - its a card with skin tones, other tones, black and gray and white - you can shoot it, CC it, see it on your screen, have them print it - they should all match - today and every day.

Ambient room light can alter the color you see on your monitor - day light thru a window, the type of room lighting and it's location - so you should (must?) calibrate and use your monitor under the same lighting at all times.
I have a dual monitor system - a CRT and an LCD. I use SpyderPro2. To get the two monitors to match eachother exaclty I had to calibrate in a totally dark room, and keep the 'other' monitor covered during calibration. I don't work in a totally dark room...but that's the best I can do.
03/16/2007 01:28:18 AM · #18
Originally posted by connie:

I just bought a laptop with Windows Vista and it won't save when I calibrate my monitor. Every time I restart my laptop it goes back to the computer defalt settings. Anyone else dealing with this?

I like my old computer better!


I've spent this week at a photo school - 120 pro photogs taking classes and 12 instructors plus assistants etc.

There is always the RAW vs JPG or Canon vs Nikon debates.

Two things are not being debated: film vs digital (digital won) and

DO NOT USE VISTA - DO NOT USE VISTA - DO NOT USE VISTA - DO NOT USE VISTA - DO NOT USE VISTA - DO NOT USE VISTA - DO NOT USE VISTA - DO NOT USE VISTA - DO NOT USE VISTA - DO NOT USE VISTA Not yet anyway.
09/10/2008 12:24:34 AM · #19
Go to control panel>display>settings>advanced>color management
and save the ICC profile that you have created for your monitor as default.
Creating an ICC profile is important because in the process you would charachterize your monitor. There are many great packages available, I use the xRite studio pro.
Goes without saying that environment conditions are very important before you get to the callibiration part.
1. Walls should be neutral color or atleast white.
2. Use SoLux bulbs or other flouroscent bulbs with 50D luminance.
3. Intensity of light should be below 32 lux at all costs in work area. If doing high end photo editing(for people working in ProPhoto RGB 16b/channel) keep it below 16 lux
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